Gloyale

I recently have been helping a friend "repair" her 2000 Legacy Outback from a recent collision with an ELK!!! Hood, smashed, and drivers headlight busted and pushed in. Fender dented in but not crumpled back into door at all. Most of the force was in the "fall" of the elk onto the hood more than the "hit" pushing in. But anyhow...... The car had previously been "repaired" from a front end collision, so the passenger side headlight was already sunk in a tad. I sourced a '03 Baja hood and headlight.....cheap...with a bit of wrinkles but should match the car well since the fenders are not perfect, and the Bumper skin is gone. (a lift and bullbar are coming soon.....so the mad max...not so perfect look is fine) After bolting it all up,...it seems the hood and headlight are 3/4 inch or so longer than they should be. It really doesn't seem like the rad support is that far off. In fact it measures out to within 1/4" of a stock undamaged reference car. But still the hood and driver headlight are noticably farther forward in front than the headlight on the other side. Does anyone no if there is a difference in these hoods headlights? did they make the front end longer a hair when they introduced the H6? And Baja didn't have an H6 so why would they be longer? Or is something still just "off" with the front support piece? Anyone?

wow. Just........uhhh........wow.

temp gauge can be corrected to match EA/EJ stuff by adding a 270 ohm resitor parallel to the sender to ground at the engine. This corrects the gauge very closely. It's a whole seperate signal from ECU temp sender. For the reed switch I was more suggesting utilizing the whole speedo unit from the EA81. There is probably a magnet on the shaft of that one that triggers the reed switch. At very least will need that shaft.

Should be able to interchange distys

Correct it would be on 85/86 models w/ power locks. All the harness wiring is there for the power locks. You'd just have to add the door harnesses and actuators. I did it to my 86. If you don't have power locks that connector stays unused.

Trying to get repair advice from Autozone worker is like asking the McDonald's cashier for culinary advice. They hire from the same labor pool. Buy your own scanner or get an app for your smartphone. You'll thank yourself the first time you don't have to deal with Auto Zoned-out staff.

Way more expensive to convert to weber. I don't really consider them an upgrade. At least not until they've been tuned correct.....which very few are. You can easily lose gas mileage, develope idle and driveability issues, and fight run-on dieseling. The rebuild kit is ~$25 and it's easy to do yourself or pay a shop I charge $75 one hour labor. No shop should charge much more than that or your getting ripped off. Hitachis are easy.....there is nothing to lose inside except one little ball at the bottom of the accel pump but reassembly is so obvious no way to screw it up really unless you break something... As long as you don't have too much throttle shaft play, your hitachi will be great after a rebuild. Spend the 25 bucks and do it yourself. Make sure to remove the emulsion tubes and blow them out that's the biggest issue they have.

7/16 studs use a 11/16 nut. Aftermarket nuts for the M10x1.25 will be 17mm head (subie nuts this size are 14mm head except lower starter nut is 17mm) 11/16 and 17mm are so close you could use the same socket for all.

This is opposite of the norm. I hate to argue with someone on another continent, but I REALLY doubt subaru tapped your heads different in finland than the US. Subaru only used 1.00 thread on flywheel bolts. Everything else in the car is 1.25 Toyota and most others use alot of 1.00 and 1.5

Rear gate lock switch

Legacy Outback started in 95 but was basically a color scheme in 95 grill and bumper changed in 96.

They are M10 x 1.25 1.00 and 1.5 are easier to find.

The blank place for the light is present on all EA82s. But there is no switch to trip it and likely not actually a bulb/holder in the cluster. You'd have to run a seperate wire because none of them had both. Add the wire and bulb to the cluster and switch to the pump, and you could easily have both functioning light and gauge.

That's probably the electronic trunk lock switch.

I don't really think so. Espescially not a perfect turbo brat And alot of the stuff in that price list is extra parts so subtract that off the cost of just the brat. I guess it reeally depends on how you define PERFECT. A truly perfect brat can fetch well over 5K......A turbo one even more

Auto or Manual? Do you mean the clutch and the VLSD center diff of the manual trans??? Or the "clutch pack" of the rear transfer on an automatic trans??

Balljoints, tierods, and wheel bearings. Along with making sure you don't have an axle joint begining to bind. (that ussually is accompanied by shaking)

You're high. The front diff does not lock.

Here's a Forrester, too old to have VDC.......might be low range, w/ limited slip cause it's Siberia and he's got chains on all 4 tires...... But it's DEFINATELY not highcentering.....just plowing though cause he's got TRACTION

If you were grabbing snow with good tiresyou would stay on top of it. Not just spinning it out from under the tires/melting it from spinning making ice. You would not have gotten stopped/high centered. You would have continued to push over the top of the snow. And no, the exhaust will not melt you out.

Uhhh.......? The Toyota/Lexus probably DO have a transfercase, and low range. Not sure what year/models we are talkin bout here. Subaru's, espescially a single range Loyale, do not have anything you could call a transfercase. As for traction control......here's a good demo of Subaru's newest type of (VDC) traction control I love how you can see it kinda "walk" it's way up by altering the slip/grip from side to side.

Burned resistor the fan would still work on high. He's got a bad relay. It's one of the 4 above the left side of the column on back of dash. Look for the one with the big Green/white wire that will be it. IIRC it has a Black connector. Just look for hte one with the G/W wire

I actually did pull a stuck Jeep out back on friday night when this snow hit here in Oregon. 2010 Wrangler 4 door (no lockers, street-ish tires way to hard psi) I completely agree with everything you wrote with the exception of "acceleration is for snow" I disagree a bit. You do need to keep momentum, yes.....but it should be gained on the flat with good traction.......Once headed up the hill, if you try too hard to accelerate you will peel out like the OP experienced. Steady throttle to keep from having too much wheel speed. I also would add that the light weight will actually help when the snow is deeper, as heavy rigs sink in while subies (with the right tires, aired down) will ride up onto of the snow. It all depends on excactly what type of snow you're dealing with too. But in most cases I would take a low and light suby in the snow anyday to a heavy, tall, truck or jeep. Briankk, we've all been stuck, it's true. No offense meant by me or I think anyone. It is true though, that tires make all the differnence.

It was FWD???

No it's either or although the senders each mount to different locations on the oil pump so it would be easy to add a switch and light to a car with a gauge already. Adding gauge to car with only light???......not so much easy but doable.