Gloyale

Year and model? If it's an EA82, you would be correct about the blank for the switch. But the wiring would not be in the harness. You may be seeing wiring for the rear wiper switch, or trunk lock switch.

How are you determining it's loading up with fuel? Have you confirmed that you still have spark after it dies? Sometimes coil/transitor fail after warmed up.

I grabbed the Switch assembly, and all the wiring between them and the seats. Didn't have any existing plugs.....cause I installed them in an '86 GL Wagon. Wired it up to a new circuit on it's own relay. Straight from battery fused power, mounted behind strut tower. Relay triggered on by the Wiper circuits "acc" power circuit, so I can have them on listening to radio in car without key on.....but they go off with key off. Pretty much all the wiring is in the switch harness, you just need to supply power and ground to it.

One side is the signal wire from the ECU. Your VSS wire. Ground the other side. Done.

$500+ must include the mount/balance...or else you got ripped off for 13" tires. Anyhow....what I would suggest would be to try to find a set of Nissan pickup 14" rims like these.. .from 90's model 2wd "hardbody" pickup's. Redrill them to 4 lug. Most tire shops will mount tites onto them like this, but you may have to put them on the car yourself. Or, if you want to run alloys or don't want to install them yourself, you could redrill the hubs to 6 lug.

kinda falls into the lsd catagorie Ishould have said any 4wd with ONLY open diffs and no traction control. I am not aware of many cars from the 80'/early 90's with any form of electronic traction control using the brakes/throttle inputs. At any rate this is purely a case of spinning out with wrong tires/pressure or both.

You could try installingan EA81 speedohead unit (just the guts) into the old EA71 dash. The reed switch is built into it might have to solder on a wire and give it a ground at the other side. But even EA81s with carbs after 83 have the VSS reed switch built in. Would require disassembly of the dash but could work they are pretty similar size/ construction.

Pretty sure the ground is actually the blue wire, and comes from the heater switch. The green/white wire is POS 12v from the relay. Likely your're relay is blown. What year and model?

Sounds like a case of bad tires or at least over-inflated or both. Combined with a perhaps less than , uh.......seasoned.... driver? Any 4 wheel drive with open front/rear diffs would do the same as for spinning 2 tires if you spinout.

Progress has been slowed by the unussually fridgid temps here lately. I did manange to get the trans crossmember mounting finished up. so the whole drivetrain mounts are in place. Once the body goes on, the engine and trans can go in. Progress was slowed somewhat by this. It's very unusual for this area. And it's all still here 4 days later. It's been welllllllll below freezing for a week straight. My boys standing on the pond. Wonder if I could drive the Subie on it??

I don't think so. The plastic cover of the unit has different ears for mounting between the 2. I just don't think that the larger one is a USDM spfi meter at all. It's for some other make or an EJ SPFI setup.

HighGuysLifts.com

The lift and the engine are likely not connected to the torque bind and shifting issue. That is indeed a filter. It's probably clogged to hell by now, I would just remove it. They were added to a run of cars in the early 90's to deal with a possible shavings issue in the trans. They added the filters to deall with it and not have to junk thousands of transmissions purchased from Jatco. Later models have the same trans with no filter so it's ok to remove it. To be clear, the FWD fuse is like a switch, put a fuse in it's like turning it on. This signals the TCU to send power to the Duty C to relieve pressure. The FWD fuse doesn't actually complete that circuit it's just a signal switch. So don't jump 12v to it or anything. The fact that the FWD works means the Duty C is working. I would say you may have a Throttle position sensor adjustment to make, or you may have mismatched size tires. IF none of that is the problem then maybe it's an issue of ridges on the transfer drum. These will keep the clutches stuck.

Plug in the green diagnostic connectors under the steering column. The fans should cycle in time with the fuel pump, and check engine light. This is Test mode, and will output any present/current trouble codes too. But it's also handy for testing fans and fuel pump operation.

Well the ECU doesn't interfre when you slighlty depress gas, because it knows you are pressing the gas via the TPS You are not supposed to mess with the stop screw. It isn't the idle adjust. This is stated clearly in the FSM, and why the screw has paint to indicate when it's been tampered with. If you open it up more, you can actually risk jamming and damaging the throttle butterfly and the inside bore of the TB. If you do adjust it, you likely need to reset the TPS (throttle pos. sensor) so that the idle switch is closed at the precise right time. You may not get a code, but you might have odd running behavior at low throttle cruising. Fuel cut at wrong time cause TPS is saying idle switch closed while throttle is still open slightly cruising.

Maybe an EJ SPFI sensor? Definately bigger and different mounting flange than a U.S. ea82 SPFI setup. It's not like the USDM EA82t/MPFI or EJ stuff either. Where did you order from????

Yeah, take out the bolts, pick it up and rotate it one tooth advanced. set it back down in. But really as long as the timing is set to 20 with the green connectors in, it doesn't hurt a thing for it to sit at the end of the adjustment. If you can't actually get it to 20 degrees and locked down, then it needs moved. I'd probably leave it alone unless you are taking it apart for other reasons, or it's running poor or something. If all is well then leave it be.

"the Right Stuff" Will set for in a few hours overnight for sure. Strong, flexible, and highly adhesive but easy to remove if needed. "the Right Stuff"

Tap for 7/16 stud. Then if you strip that in the future, you can stil go the helicoil or insert repair method but not needed. Tap for 7/16 stud.

Your valve has been removed. That setup is full flow all the time, so it should not matter which way it goes. To get rid of air pockets, Remove upper radiator hose from radiator end, and the rad cap, and then fill it through the upper hose. Doing this while parked with the nose up will help even more.

XT6 axles. They are the right length, cause they are made for that chassis. You will need 25 spline stubs, or swap out the inner cup.

23~28 ft./lbs. is what I shoot for. Snug and even is more important than drasticly tight. remember, they are just M8 bolts. Subaru Head bolts don't even see 65 ft./lbs back off a bit muscle man lol

There's no fuel cut switch. I'll bet the timing belt got snapped or some wiring for the ECU/fuel system got damaged.

Green and Green/white are reverse lights.

None of those. Those are the 2 headlight relays, The blower relay, and the Defrost relay. The Fuel pump controller is not like a regular "relay" it's bigger about the size of deck of cards. And it is mounted Directly above the hood latch pull. It's actually bolted in underneath the hood latch pull. Loosen the bolt, and it slips out from under for better access.