Gloyale

Hmmmmm.......Just found this and it got me thinking. http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z146/1992Roo/MadeupHatchVersionoftheXTTurbo.jpg

That's beautiful....just beautiful.

About 2600 lbs bone stock. Give or take a few 100 for depending on options and excact year. 87+ are a tad heavier than earlier ones but pretty much any EA82 wagon is about 2600 lbs with no one in it, and an empty tank. And If you ever plan on rolling it you will need a cage. I have a rolled one out back of the shop now. The driver was O.K, but the roof is crushed. Weakest part is the A-pillars. So I would say a good cage should actually run up from behind the dash, and up the A-pillar to a hoop over the top of windsheild. Really an Exo would be better even. No matter what that's gonna be weight. Or just don't roll your rig.

I was really thinking the long stroke/bore ratio would be good as Subaru engines are rediculously over square already so getting a bit more stroke, without really needing or wanting tons of horsepower really wanting a reliable low end torque motor. Plus it's crap I had around to play with.

Hmm.... I really don't think so. I pulled this engine from the car running......it had definately never been removed before. And again, splitting it it seems for sure to have never been apart.

So for S & G I bolted an EA rod up to the EJ25d crank.....without a bearing....loosely cause I still need that crank. Anyhow, here's another issue...these rods would be way to short. This is one issue And I have a feeling that even if clearanced out, the pistons would be pulled down out of the bores. Would have to be longer rods, with shorter topped pistons. On a side note.....I found out why the EA82 engine I pulled this piston and rod from was smoking SOOO bad when I pulled it. Kinda intermittent.......but when it smoked it would just block out the sun for a minute, then clear up....then smoke again....... Non-turbo EA82 from 87 SPFI 2wd 3at wagon. Wonder why???? Hint....those aren't broken rings in the backround.....they're broken RING LANDS

I ran a jumper jumper from the original A/C fan relay (EA's weren't ECU controlled) It's the yellow wire on the outer of the 2 A/C relays (The other is the relay for the Clutch power IIRC) When the A/C is on, that relay will provide ground to that yellow wire......which is tied to the OE fan switch wire at the radiator. Just tap it and run that wire over to your new fan relay and tie it to the same pin that the ECU trigger is on. A diode wouldn't hurt but not needed i don't think. Press, I don't think the EJ ECU controlled the compressor.....other than the cutout feature that is. The regular cycling of the Compressor is controlled by the thermostat in the Evap core, and the pressure switches. Not postive. But on another note there is a mod that needs done up under the glovebox, to eliminate the "pulse relay" i.e. belt protection system. This is assuming a Hitachi system. It would be good to get info from the OP on that. BUt yeah, I replaced the Pulser relay with a standard relay that simply completes ground for the Compressor circuit whenever the Evap thermo is closed, and the A/C or Defrost switch is pressed. I actually want to relocate the microswitch on the ducting to be able to use ONLY for A/C not defrost. El Freddo, any chance you know which A/C???

Okay well 2 totally different cars there. The carbed EA82, the Fuel pump relay has 5 wires(6 pins)connector and should be mounted to the kick panel above the hood latch release. It ONLY sends power to the pump when there is a tach pulse present on the yellow wire there. So look for tach signal, and check the power in, and out, and the ground. The XT. Timing belt wouldn't affect fuel. But again, ECU will cut off fuel pump if it doesn't see a Tach pulse from the disty. Gotta have the Intake boot hooked up and pulling air through the MAF to make it run.

Use a good fitting 12 point. I preffer a 3/8 drive to a 1/2" because it's smaller profile. A big fat 1/2" socket can jam against the outside of the cylinder wall and exert undo pressure sideways against the lip. Espescially on 2.5 but still on 2.2 it's tight. Can't emphasize enough though how you need a good 12 point, seated fully. Then give 'er a go. They'll pop loose.

Clip the extension tube into the TC. Then slide it all into the trans. I rest the pilot nub in the center in my finger, and then spin the TC while pushing in gently until it clicks all the way in. When seated the Flexplate bolt tabs will be just about flush with the bellhousing.

ECU fan wire will be a White/blue wire that originally went thorugh a diode and became red/blue A/C cut not really needed but could be wired in. Don't know the wire colors though. Might be Blue/white IIRC???

No go. Damn Turns out the FSM's were confusing me. The "crankpin" diameter of the crank itself EJ25d is 48mm The "crankpin end" of the EA Connecting rod is 48mm.........without a bearing in it. The crankpin itself of the EA82 engine is 45mm.....with a 1.5mm thick bearing. Damn.

Well poop. apaarently I recall incorrectly. EA81 rods have a smaller crankpin end than EA82. Gonna have to be EA82 rods, which I don't have any sitting out.....I gonna need to split a junk case to get some rods out. On a better note....I found a spec for width of EA82 rods at the big end....19.35~.43mm EJ Crank journals are 21.64mm so the EA82 rods will fit, albeit with a little excess side clearance.

This is because forrester tophats add some height in the rear too. Since you had to use the legacy ones, you lost a little height. You could swap to Forrester springs to help some, and a HDPE spacer will help even more.

Hmmm...... The EA81 rods do fit nicely on the EJ25 journal as far as side to side clearance. If EA82 are wider they might not work. As long as the EA81 and EA82 rods are the same length all should still be ok. Headin out now

The rear output is driven directly from the planetary output. The front pinion has it's own transfer gearset. Some models are 1:1, some are overdriven, but it's only .974 (38/39). These models have a 3.7 front diff and a 3.9 at the rear. Either way the rear diff is a 3.9 So the "final drive" of both diffs and the drivetrain as a whole is still 3.9 unless a turbo model. then it's 3.7 front and rear.

HighGuysLifts.com

I got all the parts here at home to test fit a bit today. Kinda anyhow. I have EJ20 block, EJ25d crank, EA82 pistons and EA81 rods (which IIRC are the same as EA82) We'll see. Pics later.

Sending unit at the trans is bad/failing. Replace it.

My EA81 wagon does fine turning 30's with no T-case with EJ22 and 5spd. Go 6" body, 7" or8" at the strut tops all the way. It's gives you the walkover room underneath if you tuck the driveline and exhaust up high after the lift. Don't need a T-case unless you wanna go 32" or bigger. (my t-case rig will have 33"s at first and maybe 35"s) Espescially since the sedans are alot lighter already.

The plate and the conduit, It all looks galvanized. Everything except. Those mounting tabs. Gonna make getting good strong welds kinda tough unless he grinds ALOT of the galv off first. Even outside he should be using a respirator. Hexalaventine Chromium is no joke.

Nah, probably is for real. Easy to replace. takes 10 mins. Just need a 12mm socket on a long extension and a good flashlight. Once you fix it....to clear codes connect both sets of connectors, and start engine, run it 40 secs or more and drive it a few MPH forward/back.....when the light flashes codes are clear. If it keeps giving you a code there is still a problem once all are fixed it will clear codes.

I've got a black EA81 sedan, with a very dark grey interior. Could have been black when new but it's faded now. Black and grey seats, and black carpet, Black and Grey door cards, but a very light gray headliner. It's a rare 4wd Sedan with all the GL-10 goodies, but it's not a GL-10.......except the plush seats....but it has sunroof, PS, PW, Cruise, Digi-dash, and A/C. My White EA81 wagon had the navy blue And my maroon brat has the beige interior. I think I've seen a silver 2wd GL-10 coupe that had a very light blue/silvery interior. If I weren't trying to keep it "all original" I would mix some tan interior pieces into the black sedan. Black n' Tan Sedan yo!

Make sure the leak is not from the shift rod. They leak alot on 4spds.

Yeah just remember that car was designed for when maximum highway speed nationwide was 55. Type of oil not as important as how often you change it. every 3k for regular oil, every 5k for synth. Warning synth may leak more.