Gloyale

Green and Black connectors, not wire colors. They will be up under the dash, Slightly left of the column. Possibly taped with masking tape to the wiring loom that goes into the ECU (computer box under dash) Green connector wires will be orange wire at one side and Black/Red(ground) at the matching one. Black connectors wires will be Red/Black and the match will again be Black/Red(ground) If you can find the Orange wire in the green connector, and the Red/Black wire in the black connector.....you can simply ground them anywhere if you can't find their matches

So a while back.....I tried putting a 2.5 crank in a 2.0 block. Problem shows immediately that the 2.0 pistons come out of the block by about 13mm because you have to use the 2.5 rods, which are too long. So flash forward....there is a thread about EJ20 pistons in an EA block, and it got me thinking. EJ20 and EA82 pistons are the same size.....and EA82 and EJ25d rods both have 48mm big ends. And EA rods are about 12-15mm shorter than the EJ25 rods. So here is my idea. EJ20 block EJ25d crank EA82 pistons, wristpins, and connectiong rods. EJ22 heads. 92mm bore 79mm Stroke 9.5+ compression......should be a torquey beeach. I'll take parts to the shop monday for some test fitting. Anybody heard of this or done this? I know you can get custom EJ rods and pistons to do this but maybe can be done with OE subaru parts?

the front of the one buggy I see long travel shocks.....but the rear end in the first picture???? No way that you've got 18" of travel at the back of that thing. Those are stock rear struts maybe 6~8 inches travel.......maybe. This setup is almost 13" of travel.....and I had to add a 6 inch lift, and cut out extension towers in the rear wheel wells to mount the shocks. they stick into the body about 3" and are maxed out under drop and compression utilizing the entire range of travel. Full drop Full Compression

3AT at 3k rpms = 769.2 wheel rotations 5spd @ 3k rpms = 986.1 wheel rotations 216.9 rotation difference = 22% difference 3AT @ 5k rpms = 1282 wheel rotations 5spd A 5k rpms = 1643.6 wheel rotations 361.6 wheel rotation difference = 22% difference So you see, the ratios stay the same......22% taller gearing in the 5spd.......But the difference between the the gap at 3K and at 5K is almost 60% greater at 5k rpms. Meaning you'll be going waaaay faster at 5k in a 5spd than you would in a 3AT.

Nah.....you can't go over 45~50 in 2nd gear. I know cause I've lost the governer gear before and driven 130 mile trip at 40 in second.

Turbo 5spds have a lower 2nd thru 5th gears compared to N/A.....they are 3.7 final......but still end up actually running slightly higher RPMs than the NA. But makes sense the turbo car would feel close to the 3at at 60ish. I definately notice that the 3at runs higher RPMs than either 5spd though especially above 70.....the gap widens the faster you go. At 60, the 5spd will be around 3300 and the 3at will be at 3600. Not so bad, but....... At 80 the 5 spd will be around 4300 rpms, but 80 in the 3at is 5300 rpms

These little motors will run out pretty well, so it's O.K. to cruise 70 with the engine turnin 4k rpms. That being said, I usually keep my 3AT under 65. Northwet....I think you are off some...the 5 spd DEFINATELY offers lower RPMs at higher speed. 3rd gear in the 3at is 1:1 drive through the trans, then 3.9 final drive unless turbo. 5spds, 4th gear is .972, and 5th gear is .78 : 1 so both are overdriven. 5th by quite a bit. With the same 3.9 final drive the 5spd is definately taller geared overall.

It say's the template is fiberglass. Which is nice, way better than cardboard. But yeah the snorkel is probably ABS but deosn;t say. Typical Generic E-bay knick off of the Safari

Clutch fan will spin any time engine is running. The difference is the speed it spins.........when cold it isn't spinning full eninge rpm, and not pullign much air. At higher temp, it "locks up" and pulls more air/ spins faster. But if you open the hood and look it will always be spinning whenever the enigne is running. Non-A/C cars did not have them at all.

Well, after being able to roll it around some I found the steering rack was not in the right place. Toe was correct straight ahead but as you turned the wheel, the toe would go WAAAAY inward. Not good. A look up under my buddy's stock 86 Trooper Diesel revealed that the stock draglink/centerlink moved in a location further up, and back from where I mounted the rack. This centerlink location is where I really need to place the steering rack to keep the stock Geometry. The post above pic shows how the steering was, in relation to the diff mount/mustache bar. And here is how it is now. Had to notch the channel the rack is mounted in. And relocate the mustache bar above the rack. Here was the other issue that's fixed now. The frame rail curve was forcing me to mount the rack lower than I wanted whilst in the first position. Moving it back placed it JUST inside the curve so I could get it higher up, perhaps a 1/2" or less forward of the stock location. .I think it will be good enough seeing as this thing will never see pavement......I dunno.....gotta hook it up behind a cart and pull it around the lot to test the steering a bit more maybe. Also, here is the rear diff mount plate. Recyled piece of Rubicon transfercase plate, and the outer end of the stock trooper crossmember. A bit ugly but tough as heck. Tried heating this jeep plate to bend and it would not budge, cherry red hot.....it's strong steel for the thickness. I like how it sticks out to the sides some and gaurds the Inner axle cups a bit.

Horn has power to it all the time. The ground is supplied when you hit the button in the wheel.

Engine crossmember fitted in permanent location and 90% finished. Weirdo piece of the old trooper body mounts that made a nice temporary holder for the steering column so it can be moved around for the time being.

Any old bushings will work to get it tightened up. Definately could be part of the problem. Although if it's been like that for a while, I'll bet the mounts at the back of trans are shot.

You don't even need an OBD II manifold. Just swap the EJ25 intake wiring and throttle body onto the EJ22 intake. Done.

I'm in Corvallis. Count me and and at least a few of my buddies 'round here in.

drivers trans mount or both trans mount

86 gl-10 you want the 105 mm

Major steps towards mounting the body this weekend. Sunday I worked on getting the body into position on some pillars to roll the subframe underneath. This also accomplishes getting the trailer cleared off to haul the frame over. My buddy was gracious engouh to let me do this in his nice, flat, paved driveway......rather than my slanted gravel mess at my house. So with the body perched 40" in the air, I gotta get the frame/drivetrain fisished up enough to install under the body. Today's job......Final mounting of transfer case. Re-used one of the nissan mounts and 2 cut pieces of a Legacy rear diff mount to mount it. I made it to be easily removable, and with the one short mount in front, and 2 long in the rear.......the rear frame can twist a bit and the long arms and rubber bushings of the legecy mounts will allow alot of flex. Last thing today, I mapped out the reinforcement plates for the front/rear junction....First, cut out of cardboard. Then traced out on a piece of 3/8ths plate. Cuts and welds to come tommorrow. Then final slag removal end painting.....a final and full bolt installation, and the frame will be ready to mount under the body. The fun contiinues.......

Passenger side easier than drivers. drivers has height adjuster mechanism takes some grinding of welds to remove.

When I do them, I bolt the inner rail front hole to the stock hole in the Outback seat. Drill a new hole in the rear for the back bolt Then I use 2 strips of 1/8th in. steel with holes 1" apart. for the outer rail. Trim some plastic off the lower part of the side skirt to clear the door sill area. Done.

The drums are easy. Some of the easiest out there. The diagrams make it look like more than it is. Drums are just cheaper is why. Wheel cylinders as opposed to calipers.

XT6 Axle.....something about the seal needs changed but I do believe these will work with Imp hubs and narrower EA body track.

2.2? I'd leave em alone unless there is signs of problem.

No that would be for MPFI Loyales they are in the engine bay......behind the drivers side strut tower

Wouldn't you also need a pump? and SOME kind of valve body to transfer pressure from said pump to the TC???