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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Well, it's officially a 4 wheeled chassis. The wheelbase is set. 100-1/2" The stock XT wheelbase is 97", Body will mount with with the front wheels 2-1/2" forward of the stock centerline. Leaving the rear 1" back from stock. It was too dark when I finished today to take pics. I'll try to get them tommorow.
  2. Just use head bolts that match the heads. They don't need to be new. steel in aluminium the steel won't stretch or deform just rips threads in block if overtorqued.
  3. Most of that doesn't really apply. You have a 225mm push type. It is possible though that you got a late EA81 (Brat, Hatch) clutch set. and with the new flywheel who knows if that's EA81 or EA82. You go the part#s of the stuff you put in?
  4. Do you have a pitch stopper installed? The bar from the firewall down to top of engine? If you don't have that the engine will try to lift/twist stressing the inner joint on the drivers side mostly but both really. I usually see this on lifted rigs, but it's something to check.
  5. I think on;y the engine is turbo. The car is an 85 GL so 3.9. should be fine.
  6. 4 rear bolts can be installed/ tightened with a long phillips head screwdriver through the access holes in the crossmember.
  7. For $75 bucks a pop you can buy brand new struts from KYBOutlet.com
  8. Hate to say but some of the pan bolt holes may be srtipped. If it were me, I'd pull it......get rid of all the cork. Clean it completely of oil, and seal it with "the Right Stuff" and no gasket. Let it cure overnight (or at least several hours) before filling with oil. That's how all the newer engines are done.
  9. If it's hoping out of 4th and 5th you need to replace the large bearing at the rear of the upper shaft too. That's the one that locaates the shaft fore/aft in the trans.....when it moves, the shift collars jump and it pops outta gear.
  10. Throw out bearing? Got it in there? Correctly? Dumb question just makin sure
  11. Dealer systems were hitachi, and are inboard. Factory systems were Panasonic/matsushita and are outboard with the exception of 85 early 86 were BOTH systems were inboard of the ALT. Just goin by the Factory Service manuals. Basically if it's not an XT or a GL-10 , you use the 110. If not then someone has swapped engines which happens all the time by now see cars with carb blocks with SPFI and MPFI turbo cars neutered w/ SPFI block etc. Subarus are like a Box of Chocolates.........that's all I've got to say about that
  12. Should be a direct swap. If the outback was 4cyl it would be 4.44 but since it's a 6cyl it's 4.11. Legacy is a 4.11 so it should be a direct swap. You will need to take the spin on filter cap off the H6 trans and add it to the Legacy one. If not the spin on filter will hit the exhaust. Other option is to modify exhaust to clear filter.
  13. Nah it's the opposite the 2.5 DOHC bolts are shorter. Makes sense because the 2.5D bolts live under the cams, whereas the 2.2 bolts come all the way up above the cam, outside the valve covers. EJ22 bolts would be too long for 2.5D heads. When I rebuild a customer engine all parts stay together with the engine they came from. This only happened to me because I built this engine cobbled from various parts, using heads from a EJ20 NA JDM engine. Too many parts laying around....I gotta clean up.
  14. You cannot use brat axles....with or without lift. hmmmm....... the aftermarkets are crappy, but 4 in a year is alot. Are they actually failing? or is the boot ripping?
  15. Okay.....be mad all you want. Doesn't bother me. BUt you might not want to brag about being an Emmisions tester and then telling people to get rid of their emmisions equipment. Heck you go one step further and admit your OWN vehichle has been modified, in a deceptive way, to "Fool" the inspectors. So.....your the inspector? wouldn't that make you the fool too??? You should be fired.
  16. Most of the Dual port heads were on turbos and are cracked in the exhaust ports. Hard to find heads, likely to crack.....hard to find a replacement. I would think SPFI single port heads a better option just because you can get them still, and if one needs replaced it's easier. As for intake.......you can't simply cut and weld the old flanges. EA engines use the intake as a coolant crossover. Might be possible with a Spider intake use the lower parts to act as crossover, and the flanges at the runners could be modified. No point. Totally dead platform for performance.
  17. That would be the dealer installed system. GL-10s had it factory and the pump is outboard of the Alt. Your GL had it added at the dealership.
  18. Did you install a new o-ring on the oil pan where the PCV return meets the case? I've seen engines burn oil badly after pan reseals when no o-ring is installed. PCV sucks up oilly air from near the bottom of the pan.....instead of that tube being sealed and submerged to where oil can fall down it, but the PCV can't suck it up the tube. Kinda like a P-trap to keep Sewer gasses from coming up the sink drain. Just a thought. Could also be oil pooled against back of piston if it was overfull
  19. Crank it for more like 20-30 secs at a time. I would not want it to be firing and running without oil pressure. Don't kill your new bearings for impatience. Crank it until the light goes out.
  20. This is a myth. Blocking your EGR won't help mileage, or power. It will cause higher temps (by some amount...not going argue) EGR is not meant for cruising speed. If your EGR is opening while cruiseing/low throttle then something is wrong. EGR opens mostly only at wide throttles, when under load. This is why it's connected to Above throttle vacuum, not intake vacuum. FSM clearly states this and that's why you can watch them operate when you rev the engine above 3500 rpms quickly. They operate when Above throttle vacuum is high.....which is under load, not simply cruising. At cruising, light throttle, above throttle vacuum is very low. You clearly don't understand them...... no wonder you think it's best to "delete"
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