Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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Timing belt and water pump and rollers. 97 is an interference engine, so you dont want to risk t-belt failure.
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Yeah.....the oil pump will take a bit to prime. It is a good idea to do that way though. Just crank a few more times till it goes out before reconnecting the coil and running. If it REALLY doesn't want to prime, you can jack the rear of the car up as high as you can to tip the oil forward into the pump cavity.
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"Easy front seal replacement" I did a write up on this excact repair. Search. I would replace the large bearing on the upper shaft in addition to the one at the front and the seal. CNY_Dave......the Automatics the pinion bearing is in the gear lube. Sealed behind that by 2 skirt seals between the diff and trans (mounted in the pump body, 2 of same seal one each way)
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And then there's this thing...
Gloyale replied to thedoctor's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
EGR valve should not be eliminated. It keeps cylinder temps lower. You won't get any more power or mileage without so just leave it OK? You can replace that solenoid with one from many types of newer japanese cars, toyota, honda, newer subarus etc. It's simply open to vacuum(when activated), or open to atmosphere(when off). -
I don't really want to admit this here......but I thought it was good info to share to save others a headache. Espescially those of use with piles of Subaru parts lying everywhere. So.....the point. EJ25d heads use a shorter bolt than the EJ22e. About 8mm shorter. How'd I find out you ask??? Well.....my freshly rebuilt (rings, bearings, valve job, port and polish) EJ22 started showing headgasket signs Heater blowing cold, overpressurized system, coolant pushed out the resevior, and once enough lost, car runs hot/overheats. So I said.....damn......well......it's new engine with composite gasket.......Why not retorque? It's only been 10k miles or so, and the head bolts are outside the valve covers on an EJ22e so why not. Well when I put a wrench on the middle bolts on the drivers side the bolt turned, too easy, waaaaay to easy.....and just kept spinning and spinning. So did the next one. So did the middle ones on the other side. Outer bolts torqued down ok.....but I knew it was not good. Drove a few days more and now the headgaskets were worse. So yesterday I pulled it and dropped a EJ18 in for temporay use. Took apart the EJ22 and found I had used the short EJ25d bolts! NOOOOOOOOO!!! they were only catching 4 or 5 threads and stripped out the threads in the block. Took off both heads, dropped the oil pan, and took the shortblock into the machine shop to fit with inserts. Dumb mistake. Don't be a dummy. You've been warned.
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Headgasket Gasses from engine pushing into coolant chamber. Overflows the resevior. Heater blows cold because the core fills with an airpocket. You could probably nurse it around for a while, just check and add coolant regularly but Headgaskets are in the future. EJ22 heads gaskets are easy you can do them in the car.
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Also the tensioners don't always extend on there own. I always take a large flathead and wedge it in above the tensioner and pry down to tension the belt and let the tensioner pin extend. Sometimes that helps set it
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Yes there are. We just aren't seeing as many yet because those cars are just now reaching high mileages. 100% aluminum engines will need headgaskets a few times in there lives.....period. I've done headgaskets in every type of subaru engine EA81, EA82, EJ22, EJ22T, EJ25D, EJ255, EJ20g, EJ257.....except one......EJ18 These ones seem tough enough to last......EJ engine without much horsepower and small pistons.
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There are supposed to be several connectors under the dash not connected. they are for testing ECU, TCU, Cruise, ABS, etc......No nessecarliy an issue. Those lockout solenoids fail, or get weak, or get very stick pivots from soda and coffee being spillled in the console. Easiest way to solve it is to simply remove, or just ziptie "down" the lever activated by the solenoid and call it good. I would highly doubt that the under dash wiring has anything to do with it. Wiring doesn't just "rewire" itself. 99 times out of a 100 the wiring is fine, and the problem is something else.....people just get confused by colorful spagetti nests going everywhere but in all likelyhood the wiring is fine unless someone went up in there and messed with it.
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Coilovers for Loyale Sedan, Digital Dash.
Gloyale replied to spvcxshxp's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Digidash came in the 80's in GL-10 model cars......which is an options package......Most were turbo, but not all. Most were 4wd, but again, not all. It's not hard with good diagrahms to simply swap pins/cut and spice wires at the dash to get the digi to work. Biggest issue is the fuel sender is different, so you need to swap to the GL-10 digidash fuel level sender too. FWIW, the early orange ones 85/86 look cooler at night, but they are notoriously hard to see in the day, and known for glitches....espescially the temp gauge. 87-89 green digidash are much better. It would be crazy amounts of work to put the whole GL-10 harness in a regular GL -
Passenger side there is one PCV and One ASV. PCV goes from valve cover to front inlet on that side of aircleaner. ASV goes from silencer (plastic cylider) to other on that side of aircleaner. Drivers side. 1 PCV and 1 ASV and one open tube(dumb....don't know why they did this) PCV from valve cover, up to a T with a small end...small end goes to aircleaner. Big end of T goes to PCV valve. ASV hose goes to rear large port on aircleaner. Hose to nowhere comes off the front of aircleaner and points down at engine. Open on the end. just hangs there. Now.....if you want to get rid of ASV system, which you should.... Do this. At the back of each head, where the stainless exhaust tubes enter the ASV reed vavles, you will see the tubes screw in with a large nut fitting. Undo this fitting, loosen the mounting bolts of the ASV, and then stick a quarter(U.S. money) in the opening. Screw the fitting back in. 100% blocked off ASV. Now you can remove the plastic silencer boxes and the hoses from them to aircleaner. And you've always got $.50 to make a payphone call j/k You can also delete the large hose from the EGR to the "anti-afterburn" valve. Cap the large tube or replace EGR with one from an SPFI model (no hose)
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You should back up to the very begining, and install the front lift blocks correctly. The top of the strut itself should be pushed "in". Not the top of the block. Blocks should look like this in the car \\ //. This was the problem the whole time.....although dropping your crossmember and trans with that lift would help. Whatever you do in the end.....(lift blocks installed correct, lift springs, both....etc...) You will want to do this. Front axles.......unclip the small clamp on the inboard joint. Slide the boot up towards the trans so it isn't stretched so much. Install new CV clamp or just a small hoseclamp. This will keep the boot from being stretched all the time and prevent ripping out. FYI, the rear suspension scan is from the Subaru Factory Service Manual for that model. Pretty sure that's a scan I posted origianlly.
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I am month or 2 out from being ready to order. Likely an after Christmas thing.
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Secondary barrell not opening?
Gloyale replied to Cincy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Also that looks like a hitachi not a carter. Which makes more sense anyhow.....since the Carter is a Single barrel. -
Secondary barrell not opening?
Gloyale replied to Cincy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's a vacuum secondary. It really won't open at all unless there is a load on the engine. If you want to test use a Vacuum pump on the Secondary diaphragm and it should open then. -
oil pressure reliefe valves on ea82
Gloyale replied to zachariah's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
there is one at each head, under the valve cover above the rockers. Are you sure it's the gasket popping? Not leaking from around the pump shaft or body? EA82s are not generally known......at all.......to have too high oil pressure. -
Doesn't look like he air them down much! lol Yeah.....visibility has been considered. A few ideas to address that. 1) The forward rake of the body......I want it to have the rump roast in the air and nose pointed down. 2) 3" spacer under the seats, seats forward and higher than stock location. (stock seat spacers from the trooper bolt right up to EA81 seats) 3) No windshield..........and likely no roof for that matter. The top will be a roll cage (gonna get some help fabbing this part Pro-Style, Safety First)....so I can sit more upright and not hit the top of windshield frame. It doesn't really have a roof as it is, since the large sunroof that is basically the whole top blew away while towing (I wasn't part of that towing, for the record) 4) There will be no trunk, and the very rear panel will be chopped down an bit turning the trunk into a mini truck bed/spare tire storage (think trophy truck) 5) Half doors with Amo can armrests. And with all that said......it's unlike to ever see snow. This will be a 3 season wheeler considering it's basically gonna be an open buggy.
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Just scan the OBD II and if there is no code for VSS it's still fine and just the speedo head is faulty.
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That's awesome. Excactly what i was looking for. Thanks so much!
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Yeah,,,,,,I get it. Some people think if you didn't spend alot of money on pretty CNC stuff that it's junk. I am building it like this because it's what I've got. My money goes to my family, my kids, and my future. I can only have fun 4 wheelin' if it's not taking away from my real financial responsibilities. So I am proud of this build.....and I will be happy to put my name on the welds, the structure, and so on. It absolutely is a pile of scrap. And taking scrap and turning it into badass rumproast wheeler is the whole point. Anybody can throw money and bolt on parts at a Jeep or Yota or whatever. It takes real thought, work, and soul to make something out of nothing.
