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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    No work on the rig itself today. But I did manage to turn the rest of an old factory Rubicon transfer gaurd and into a Diff Protector. Holes for drain plugs and mounting to the front portion still to come. I'll be combining it with an EJ series diff mount craddle to make a fully armored rear diff and driveline. Here's the start. The first pic has a crazy optical illusion but it's more or less centered and right angle to the diff.
  2. Gloyale
    Pretty much only GL-10s, turbos, and XT's uses the 105 mm, "factory" A/C setup. All other models use the 110. The 105 pump can be used with the correct pulley. It's like this. If the pulley is thicker, fit's on over the studs, and then has it's own studds for the Clutch fan.......You need a 105 If the pulley is thinner slips right over the studs and then the fan bolts onto those same studs......110
  3. Gloyale
    Damn.....sucks. You will need a new oil pump. This is the reason why you DO NOT want to turn the engine, or more specifically the oil pump backwards. Oil pumps are positive displacement....meaning if it turns.....the oil WILL be moved. Turn it backwards and it pumps backwards......except the oil filter has a backflow prevention in it, so there is suction created which pulls that bypass ball backward through it's pinned in home. I think a slow backwards revolution of the engine will not do this. Like a 1/4 turn back to line up T-belts or something is fine....but repeated and espescially fast turning over of the engine in reverse is not good. I think it happens most (seen several now on EA82s) when someone uses an impact or air ratchet to remove the oil pump pulley....and if the pulley is not held it will spin backwards very fast which is when this ball get's sucked in. If resealing an oil pump, REMOVE IT FIRST......then wrap the pump inner rotor with rubber and hold it in a vise to remove the nut and pulley to get to the seal.
  4. Gloyale
    I think you mean Fuse not relay. And witrhout rewiring a ton of stuff.....you aren't gonna relocate the Ignition relay. Relays don't "pop" And the Ignition relay has nothing to do with the Dome light. Check the box near the battery that has the fusible links in it.
  5. Gloyale
    It's not easy. Swapping entire dash might work. If the cars are in the same year range. Years break down like this 86,86 87 88+ If it were me, and I was dead set on doing the swap....I would get FSM diagrahms for each dash and repin/cut/solder the wires at the back of the dash. That's what people ussually do for DigiDash conversion. In order to get a working Oil Pressure gauge you will need to swap a sending unit onto the Oil Pump. If you are really set on it I can copy Pinouts from the 2 dashes for you if you want.
  6. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Hmmmm........ I'll take it as a compliment. Don't think it was meant that way.....but that's how I'll take it. This think is being built to thrash on at events. So I can save my road legal trail rig EA81 wagon for trails.
  7. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Close.....but no. Not a wagon.
  8. Gloyale
    You can stick with current trans. Get a Brat clutch, 225 mm, 21 spline (7/8) and pressure plate. The EA82 5 spd D/R is a better trans, better gearing and more durable......with that you can use the XT6 clutch or just a 4wd EA82 clutch. Either option will require an adapter plate, and a redrilled flywheel to match the trans 4spd vs. 5spd
  9. Gloyale
    So....How do you think it was gonna cool when you are moving slow??? What's the reasoning for not running it???
  10. Gloyale
    What your doing looks great........but I have to wonder.......since they always bend in this particular spot.....I think the hole is there to make a crumple point for crashes. Might it not be easier to plate this area over the hole, and around the tube to reinforce it? What your doing will work too. Just purely a thought on why they always bend in that same place.
  11. Gloyale
    Even without a clip at all the axle will stay in place. There isn't enough travel in the stock suspension to extend the axle to where it would pull out. I know because I've stuck an old EA rear stub into a newer Legacy diff and hooked up an older leagcy axle to it. No clip, and no roll pin.......on a wheeler.......it all stays.
  12. Gloyale
    Turn the key to ON but don't start the engine. Does the Check Engine Light come on and stay on? or does it blink accompanied by a relay clicking? The reason I ask Is that I've encountered a batch of bad "new" alternators out there. Since the ECU power and the ALT share a common cicuit on these cars (90-94, changed in 95) A problem in the alt can make the ECU do weird things hard starting......espescially when cold.....and other odd electrical behavior. I've personally seen it twice and documented 2 other cases here on the board.
  13. Gloyale
    Make sure the electric fan is running. If it isn't that's the issue. If the fan is working then the rad is clogged.
  14. Gloyale
    Since it did it with both carbs, I'm gonna say it's not the carb. It's electrical. Ignition switch. My 84 Sedan does it and my 86 Brat too sometimes even kicks the starter for a moment when turning key off. Turn it slowly, and it doesn't happen.
  15. Gloyale
    If it's a rear diff we are talking about, there will be no need to swap stub axles. Only the front axles are different23 vs. 25, rears are all 23 spline.
  16. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Here's a mock up. Keep in mind here the rear torsion is cranked to max.....but the front torsions are barely even threaded in.....so the front is sitting WAAAY lower than it will be when done. Although it will have a bit of forward rake still when done.....at least the frame will......the body will be a bit more level when mounted. Next to ol" T-Bone for scale And here is a clue as to what body and how it will be mounted to the frame. Anybody care to guess???
  17. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    So I got some more done today. Working on the rear suspension set-up. I was gonna try some craziness mounting the diff ABOVE the torsion tube.....but that wasn't looking good, so I kept it simple EA81 all the way. With the exception of the Legacy rear diff mount piece and the F-250 Rear shocks that is. Keep in mind this is all first stage welded......welded strong enough to support itself for building......but the junctions between all the C- channel pieces will all get gussets later. I also mounted the steering rack into the front piece of the frame. Pics later.
  18. Gloyale
    Might want to mount a steering rack in that crossmember to make sure tie rodends won't hit under compression. There's a reason the swaybar has those curves in it where it went over the tierods.....right were your brace is going to go.
  19. Gloyale
    Your not doing the type of trails we are then. 2~3' diameter rocks in the trail, 40 degree inclines, twistys around tree roots. 4500 rpms in my wheeler in 1st lo would be 12~15 mph......too fast for trails. That's why they call it "crawling"
  20. Gloyale
    If you've got a 6 inch lift they work great. Gotta slot the upper tab just a bit but they do bolt right in.
  21. Gloyale
    If it doesn't seem to fit right you could have a Gen 1 A-bar(77-80)......won't bolt onto a Gen 2(80+, 82+ Brat) car.
  22. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    That's pretty much all the body will be. Although, It will have some strutctual element to it. But like I said, it's gonna be half doors with no glass, no rear hatch and alot of other stuff trimmed out. As it sits, the frame isn't THAT heavy. The Trooper frame gets it's strength from boxing, it's not actually that thick except in a few spots. The F-250 frame rails are heavy yes.....but they basically ARE the lift kit, and will add enough strength to allow me to take out some structure from the unibody in the very back end. I am shooting for a race weight of 2700 lbs or less. Should be easy considering my lifted wagon weighs 3000+ and that's got a full wagon body and glass and interior.
  23. Gloyale
    NO you need a gasket for the block. The fire ring on the 2.2 gasket will be too small for the larger 2.5 bore. That's the problem....you need a gasket with water ports that match a 2.2 head, and a bore size to match the 2.5 block. Or drill the gasket to match the 2.2 heads
  24. Gloyale
    Yes unless you install a 3" or more lift, and block down the mustache bar.
  25. Gloyale
    Okay.....this is the problem. Let's start from the begining. The Red wires get power through the Relay under the seat. Relay gets power from the Circuit breaker. So start by checking the relay. Is there power at the White wire? yes? Then the problem is in the relay, or signal volts from Ignition switch (R/Y) No power to either?? Then check for a 3 pole connector, up past the passenger side kick panel...with the R/Y and the Big White wires in it. Make sure it's connected. Now, if the White wire doesn't have power but the R/Y does, then .....check the breaker......12v in? then breaker faulty. No 12v at all......then on to the next... Open hood, on the passenger side......right behind the headlight.....hidden by the A/C dryer.....is a 2 prong/white connector, with a large white wire in it. Labeled "F12" in the FSM diagrahms. Make sure it's connected.....and check for voltage there. No? Then check the green Fusible link. You will find it somewhere on this cicuit.
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