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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    Sure you can. I've done it. The VC is basically one of the 2 spider gears. Knock the center dowel out and take the carrier apart. It does come out as a unit and you order a new one from Subaru. And for quoting if you delete text from a quote to only respond to portion of someones comments, you have to be careful not to delete very begining of their text. You can delete the first visible character....but not the hidden text infront that defines the quote. IF you select the whole text block and hit delete, it will remove the hidden text that defines the quote box. I ussually leave the very first letter, and then put the cursor in front of it and then hit a single "delete" keystroke and the hidden text for "boxing" will stay.
  2. Gloyale
    If you suspect timing issues at all, stop cranking it over. 97 is the first year of interference 2.2 liter. Lower idler may have dropped balls but not completely siezed/broken belt. May have skipped a few teeth. belt must be spinning if there is spark but could be off time.......don't let it get too far off time or it will bend valves. Take off the covers and look.
  3. Gloyale
    Tap for 7/16. Install new stud with loctite. Easier and cheaper. Nut head will be 11/16 so 17mm socket and aftermarket nuts for metric subie studs are all 17mm head anyhow. IF that strips later THEN you can helicoil. If you do the helicoil first and then it comes out later (happens alot...helicoils aren't ment to be taken apart often) you'll have no meat left for retapping. Leave the option open for another chance. Just my $.02
  4. Gloyale
    Problem is you have a GL-10 turbo model......but you have a regular non-turbo 4wd trans in it. You need an EA82 chassis axle, with the 23 spline inside (smaller of the two sizes) The first axle you got was for EA81 (brats, hatchbacks, older wgn/sdn) Splines fit, but too short. Happens because these cars were also offered as "GL" models with the "1.8" engine in the same year. Completely different body and engine cars. You need to order an axle for a 91 loyale. This will eliminate the possibility of getting an EA81 or a Turbo EA82 axle. Also, the clutch you may have gotten a FWD clutch....there were FWD GL-10s. Order your clutch for the 91 Loyale too and you will get the right one.
  5. Gloyale
    Definately would not pass smog. And would be problematic bolting up throttlebody, installing optical disty to head, and more..... But it's pretty easy to strip down the SPFI harness to put onto an EA82 or EA81 engine.
  6. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    One would think. But keep in mind this won't be road legal......so it will have none of the following Windshield Door glass Rear side glass Trunk lid Hood (it'll have plastic panel "hood" covering engine) Interior Dashboard(minimal instruments) HVAC/heatercontrols Heater Core And oh yeah......there is basically no roof. Hmm.....It might need a roll cage??? Maybe
  7. Gloyale
    very easy
  8. Gloyale
    Code 45 is not Atmospheric control. Code 45 for a 91 Loyale would be for "kickdown control relay"
  9. Gloyale
    They have an external sensor for "High Alltitude" and one for Boost pressure.
  10. Gloyale
    You say different engine and mention wires that sound like the old Disty wires. So clarify for us What year and model, and is the enigine in it Carbed or Fuel injected. Could be a carbed engine in an originally SPFI car which would mean alot for trying to troubleshoot.
  11. Gloyale
    Can't really damage it installing engine......UNLESS it's a dual range. Dual ranges have an extra bearing support assembly right at the front. Dual ranges, if the input shaft isn't aligned right, and you force it.......you can force the bearing to blow out the clip in it's retainer. BUt anything single range I can't see how engine install could hurt it.
  12. Gloyale
    It is not external on the EA82 cars. It's built into the ECU. Turbo models only had a "pressure sensor" but that's really about boost sensing. Not Atmosphere. Latter models do have MAP sensors.....but not in EA82....it's in the ECU.
  13. Gloyale
    Unscrew the big flange where the metal tube goes into the ASV box (behind the head). It's big stainless flange, ussually never seized. Unscrew it, place a Quarter (US money) in the hole, and reattach the flange. Done. The exhaust passage is blocked. now remove all the plastic tubiing coming off the ASV.
  14. Gloyale
    No the EJ headers will not work. Gotta make it or use one with a CAT.
  15. Gloyale
    You will need an EA81 rear suspension and driveline.....and a 4wd trans of course. Finding all those parts for an EA81 car is getting tougher. Brats and Wagons are what you will want a driveline from. Good news is you don't have to fab a carrier mount with the older body....unless you end up going with a 5spd. HOnestly.....if the car is nice.....I'd leave it alone.......fix it up. and use it for transportation, and find a cheap 4wd 85-89 wagon with the 4wd and daul range in it already. 4wd conversion is alot of work and then you'll be faced upgrading to 5spd and eventually EJ.....better to start with a 4wd to make a wheeler.
  16. Gloyale
    I did it with all mine too using a standard Bosch type relay it would be like this Batt+ power = 30 12v out to fan = 87 Ig. switched power + = 85 ECU fan trigger (ground) = 86 I personally like using regular suby relays myself. B ut the Bosch # code makes explaining the circuit easy if you are familiar with it.
  17. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    No way. This is going to keep progressing pretty steadily. I mean C'mon.....everything in this thread has been done since last Friday.....a week ago. I plan on being able to put the frame toghether and install the engine/trans within the next 2 weeks. Transfer case is gutted right now, gotta order new bearings and seal and rebuild it. Body mounted by December. From there it will be radiator (back seat) drivelines, seats, rollcage, dash and column, and oh yeah.....might need some brakes. Still alot to do but this will not take "years" There is a definate deadline actually.......Mountain Top Mud Jam. May of next year.
  18. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    INstalled the insert frame piece into the end of the trooper frame and plug welded it all around. Not too pretty, it'll be better once I get the rest of the slag off And I dropped the end of the diff 1" to better the stretch on the axles, and keep them from hitting the framerails......success....But I still will notch just a touch to prevent hitting on huge hits. Here is full drop, sitting on the bumpstops, torsions disconnected. And I finished attaching the skidplate to the transfer plate guard from the trooper. So it's a continuos piece from front to middle....at least for now. More welds to come but it's in place for now and the bolt holes are all set.
  19. Gloyale
    Do you have a lift or any spacer on your suspension? It could be the extra angle causing the tear....not the heat. I've never seen a H6 legacy with boot problems......not any more than any other Subaru.....I mean, the Cat's aren't any closer to the axles than they are on 4cyls......just that they are on both sides...not just the passenger. On turbo models the exhaust is even closer. I just feel like there is something else we are missing in the picture here.
  20. Gloyale
    Your smart. I do the same. And I believe that's why I've never broken a stub axle, or axle shaft. (have exploded the CV cup) Everyone that I know that runs their welded on the street has broken multiple stub axles in the diff, and some have sheared axle shafts and I can only think that's from the constant stress and torque of being welded on the pavement.
  21. Gloyale
    Stock EA82 Single range 4wd (hybrid into EJ case.....so no adapter plate, EJ clutch). Tires are slightly over stock 185/70/14" Now one thing to consider in my case is that particular EJ18 sat in a wrecking yard for 4+ years. Smashed front right corner, so it was running when it was wrecked.....and runs good still.....but I wonder if a cylinder or 2 has some scratches/low compression/or weepy vavles. Another EJ18 might do better.
  22. Gloyale
    These ones actually look closer to what I want http://www.maperformance.com/tomei-101mm-bore-head-gasket-subaru-sti-ej25-04-12-1.0mm-thick.html?_rfkwc=1 You can see clearly they have openings at the very bottom for the coolant passage that feeds the pocket between the exhaust valves. This passage And also there are passages as the top, which those STI gaskets have a kidney shaped opening that should also accomodate coolant making it to these areas. Remember in EJ engines, coolant is pushed out of the pump, into the area below each cylinder. Then it passes through the gasket, into the lower head, up through it, and back past the gasket into the top portion of the block, and then up and out to the radiator. So if the passages in the headgasket don't line up, it could SEVERELY restrict the flow of coolant around the entire engine.
  23. Gloyale
    He said he wants more power. lol Ohh.....I get it you think since it's so tiny the weight loss will give him more power? I just leave my Girlfrieind home if I want to drop 110Lbs.
  24. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Oh, those frame rails won't be just welded at the edge. That would rip out immediately.......c,mon....I know better than that. There will be A piece of 2 x 3 1/4 wall tube stuffed into the open end of the isuzu framerail. Then will be plug welded multiple times on both sides and the top. Then that piece will extend out about a foot out of the isuzu frame and be welded to the inside edge of the channel along the bottom, and some plug welds on the back side. Additional plates will be added to gusset. And another piece of 1/2" thick, by 2" wide flatbar will be stuffed between the upper lip of the channel, and the top of the frame section where they overlap. So the butt end of the frame will COMPLETLEY fill the inside of the cahnnel, and then be plated diagonally across the inner edge.....turning the C-beam into a boxed section, around the front frame box section, which will be stuffed with the thick tube and all plug welded......A triple box beam cross section should work right???? Also, this chassis will bolt rigid to a unibody Subaru body, so will have all the strength of the unibody to resist bowing and twisting too. So in other words it won't be like a truck where the frame has to hold everything cause the body is bolted with rubber and not designed to take any load. Think of it as a continuous unibody spacer......rather than a standalone frame. Although I did design it so I could change bodies
  25. Gloyale

    Trooparu

    Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Off Road

    Thanks for the encouragement! I fo sho will soon... But I think even if I notch it the diff will have to come down slightly. I test fitted a hybrid axle today and ran it through the travel. It hits right as the bump stop is 1/4" from toching, and hte rubber stop compresses another 3/4 inch on a huge hit, so I think a 1-1/2" notch in the 4" rail will cover it. BUT the axles are very stretched at the maxed out height. SO.... the diff will come down 1 inch at least to try to keep the axles in the cups. IDK, if the axle thing doesn't workout I may have to go to EA82 shafts......and lengthed A-Arms......Muuuuaaaaaahhahhahahhaaaaaaaaa!!!! MoaR PICS!!! At least today I flipped the balljoints on the Trooper upper A-arms.....It's a cheap trick for correcting camber angle and getting a bit more droop out of the suspension. Complimentened by removing the downward bumpstops entirely No pics of the a-arms and bumps......but here you can see the much better camber. I also mounted an EA81 rear end. Gonna keep it all Torsion after all. And here I mocked it up a bit......Might set the wheel base soon. What the hell am I doing????
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