Gloyale

Hmm......hope those don't dent upward at all......won't be able to open doors! Damn you guys have too much fun.....this one is too far away and right on my GF's birthday so I will not be there. Damn.

Well crap. I disconnected the Torsions and ran the suspension down to the maximum "uptravel" position, and the axles hit on the framerails before the arms hit the bumpstops. CRAP!!! Keep in mind this is only an issue under FULL compression. The suspension may never actually be that stuffed when driving/wheelin. But I should address it so I don't break an outer joint or bend an axleshaft. So I have to either lower the front diff slightly (might do this)....Altough the way it's mounted now is PERFECT and I don't want to change if I don't have to. Or I have to notch the framerails to make a pocket for the axle to rise into. May extend the framehorns I added over the a-arms, and back to the rail to reinforce so once the frame is notched it will be strong still. I'll post pics of the problem, and the solutions as they get worked out.

You could probably just lengthen the D/R shift rod 3/4~1 inch should do it.

That hone may not be large enough. 95mm. I believe EJ22 bore is 96.9 mm Edit* Duh.....EA81...92mm bore.......Ooops

A bead of "The Right Stuff" on the back before you install the bracket is easy and no gasket needed then. Not that it's really "needed" anyhow.

Looks right. The plastic notches can be off slightly, it deforms from heat over time. You just want the mark to be straight up.

good thought, but I've already got the nissan case, and I like the center drop as opposed to one side or the other. Plus people want alot for the sammty cases, whereas Nissan cases can be had cheapp

Looks like those would still block the holes at the top of the chamber. I'll post pics of what I mean. Those gaskets don't match the 2.2 gaskets water holes.

Buy a new viscous coupler aor get a used one and call it good.

Sedann/wagon/ hatch will be the same but Brat in 81 would be diferent than your 82 brat. Most info for the 81 wagons will apply to the 82 Brat. some wiring info may be incorrect.

Todays mission: Steering Mounted an EA82 steering rack to a big piece of plate. Plate will be welded into place on the frame after some more suspension stuff is figured out. Here it is And the piece relatively in place on the frame. Final fitment will come later......got a piece of tube welded to the frame and bolted between the tierods for now so I can tow it around the yard.

Do you have a Dual range???? Shifting isn't the issue....it's the distance between the trans and the D/R linkage changes....requiring the lever to move to a further part of it's arc to get to the 2wd.

Yeah that 1 inch drop changed the geometry of the shifter. Cut and extend the shift rod, and the stay rod both about 1 inch.

Not positive on 06 model but others you can lift the carpet in the trunk, and there are 2 cover plates that can be removed to access the fuel pump, and fuel level sender and the ends of the hoses.

46.33 Crawl ratio?? Is that Too low??? I mean am I gonna use 1st Lo/Lo ??? Perhaps I should use 3.7 diffs? Hmm....That would only be 41.7 IDK.....Just looking for thoughts from those that have added t-cases or otherwise adjusted gearing. Scott....you made that crazy sideways engine thing with the final drive outputs feeding the front and rear diffs? Was that a D/R trans? and how was the gearing in that??? 3.545 x 3.9 x 1.59 x 3.9= 85.73!!! The reason I ask....Is I'm considering an EJ trans with a welded center to feed into the transfercase....Stronger EJ clutch options. That would be 3.545 x 2 x 4.11 = 29.13 Hmm..... maybe not low enough. Maybe 4.44 diffs = 31.48??? hmm....that sounds good. Stock EA gearing is 21.98 so that could be a good jump. Thoughts.

Hate to say it, but my GF's Loyale with a 94 EJ18 in it only gets about 26-27.....and that's unloaded hwy driving. Mixed driving it's about 23 Heavily loaded on a trip to CA we only got 21ish.......loaded roof rack and lots of mountain passes. Sadly.....I think the original EA82 probably did better.....But the engine was tired.....and well an EA82 so I wanted to upgade but I think the MPFI on the EJ18 is not as efficient as the old SPFI on the EA82.

350 to 400 CFM for a 2.5 ltr 4 cyl?. Like my math showed.....you'd need to achieve nearly %100 volumetric efficiency to need that much. (Cubic inches/2) x (Max RPMs/1728) x Efficeincy% = ideal CFM. So 2.5 ~ 153 CU (153/2) X (7000/1728) x 85% (generous...more like 75% or less in stock form) 76.5 x 4.0509 X .85 = 263.409 ideal CFM. Anything more than 300 will probably not run well at lower RPMs and may not idle/respond to throttle well.

Not much new today. Got the diff mount bolted in........more welds to come but it's secure for more mockup. Got the transfer case sorta mounted (only the front end of it....will tie into the rear section when the rest of the frame is added) Added some framerail section (80's F-250) to make a "perch" where the body will sit And I used a crossbar from a 2011 Rubicon, and 2 crosspieces from the F-250 frame to make a long, continuos skid plate under the center of the rig.....to protect the diff and the front driveline. Now time to start on the REAR!!!

Only the 2.5 RS had 2.5 A regular Impreza Sport from 95-2001 will have a 2.2

You absolutely do have to disassemble the trans, at least partially to replace the Ring and pinion, and the pinion gear...(which is the part that fails and causes the noise/grinding) In addition to the front diff section (TC case), you also need to remove the transfer section at the back to access the pinion shaft nut. And also the Oil pump section (sandwhiched between diff and trans body). The pinion shaft seal is set into the pump......and If the bearing went out.....that seal is wiped (it's actually 2 twin seals set in back to back) All in all it's about $850 in parts (R&P gears, Pinion Bearing, Pinion seals, Tube seal, Oil Pump body metal gasket, and transfer flange gasket, fluid and filtter, at a minimum) + labor about 13 hours.

Ground wire stuffs into the socket and is pinned agianst the outside of the metal "barrel" that the bulb fits into. Sometimes they ground wire needs pulled out, cleaned, adn stuffed back in against that barrel. Although....since your tailight works on that side, it's gotta be on the + wire to the brake light.

Legacy supports will work. Need to install the ball pivot into one of the lower mounting holes instead of the original "tabs" They do work, and hold more weight than the Loyale ones as Legacy gates are heavier.

After the case halves are bolted back toghether. It's obvious once you open it up.

Snow tires are for snow. Suck in wet/mud and they kill gas mileage on warm roads in summer and wear out quickly too. Again, Snow tires are for snow. No need to redrill the hubs.......Just get some 14" or 15" steel Toyota, Nissan, or Mitsubishi, or Mazda wheels. Drill 2 new holes and mount them on your rig. Done.

Cut off the "warm up" flapper too. That will be an open spot to suck in water when cold (could open suddenly even with warm engine when submerged......underwater does funny things to temp related equipment)