Jump to content
Registrations ×
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Registrations

Gloyale

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    10955

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    86

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    1 of the 2 senders is dead. Remove the plates under the rear carpet and access the sending unit connectors (one on each side of the tank) Test resistance of each sender. If nessecary, remove the senders and test them through the range for proper resistance changing.
  2. Gloyale
    So you fixed it......... By adding to the wiring cluster? I preffer using the FSM and a Ohm meter to track down actual problem.......not hack in a patch. This is a subaru not "Windows Vista" J/K......glad you got it solved one way or another......at least you do understand relays and what they do/how they work. You've got a leg up on most people.
  3. Gloyale
    I know what Stoichiometry is. I even know how to spell it too. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoichiometry And I still say he's got a lean condition. That's why at wider throttles....i.e. higer Rpm/load applications things are fine......more gas. I've been doing these EA82t's for a long time. They develop vac leaks. Most likely the intake boot supplying the turbo is cracked, or the PCV hoses are brittle and leaking a bit too. We will know when the OP posts new results.
  4. Gloyale
    Just to clarify cylinders= 3 4 1 2 If it's 3 and 4, it's unlikely to be compresion, or timing.......as they are on seperate banks. 1,2 and 3,4 fire togther at the coil though, so if the problem is a pair of front or back cylinders.....it's ussually spark/coil related. If in fact this misfire in question is 2 and 4, or 1 and 3 i.e. both on one side not firing, then I would almost garauntee it's a T-belt skipped a tooth or other cam problem.
  5. Gloyale
    Even if those #s were accurate,( which I don't believe) that would be 32.2........so if that's your best "I've done blah blah blah" situation then you couldn't be "consistently" getting even better than that. ONce again......the stats....and this is assuming your car is FWD, which I doubt because most if not all us 96 cars were AWD so the mileage would be even worse. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/12783.shtml here's the AWD version http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/12785.shtml See what I mean about the tendancy to "puff up" ones own situations?
  6. Gloyale
    Middle wire in the connector is yellow wire/ ig. switched 12v. When a test light is bridged across this yellow wire and eitehr of the other 2 wires at the coil (red or blue) teh light should Pulse quickly......or at least glow dimmer/flickering. If not pulse isn't happening to cause the spark to jump from the primary to the secondary windings and on out to the plugs. Might be simpler to swap transistors just to check. that would eb my next real guess barring damage to the wiring.
  7. Gloyale
    So you get 400 miles to a tank? Let me get this straight....you get 15-20% BETTER gas mileage after almost 300k miles than the car got new......yeah sure. Your math is wrong or your lying. Or maybe not so much lying as just pulling crap out of your arse to make yourself happier with your own choices. Or your trying to impress the internets.
  8. Gloyale
    Dude. Even the Justy is only rated for 32.....with a full litre and one cylinder less displacement. So if your odometer is off then your math is off or you aren't keeping acurate records or your just lying to yourself to feel better about your car. Something is off. And I'm sorry if I sound like a wongleflute but it's unrealistic and unhelpful to people to make them somehow expect they should eb getting near 30 MPG. I am sick of people bringing me cars and complaining that they read they should get 25-30 MPG from their Legacy/Forrester/WRX etc..... NO YOU SHOULD NOT!!! So I'm sorry to be a wongleflute about this but look again at the EPA ratings for these cars and be honest with yourself. You're NOT getting 29mpg
  9. Gloyale
    Yeah it's like the old Quad 4 setup on old DL's and 2nd gen EA cars. Lows stay on with the Highs. Also lows will be on as DRL anytime engine running with park brake off.
  10. Gloyale
    Bullsheet You're oddometer is off.
  11. Gloyale
    Test the signal wires at the coil for pulse. Yellow is constant power, the other 2 are the signal. If no pulse check wiring continuity back to the igniter. If good, replace igniter. If no change suspect ECU or wiring back to the ECU. Check for CEL with Key on/Eng off. Sould prove on before startup.
  12. Gloyale
    Sounds like your going by the arrows. Don't use the arrows,use the notches you mentioned on the cam pulleys, and the notch on the very back ear of the crank gear that is directly opposite the keyway (Keyway down, all notches up) Oil pump is front center of engine. the Crank goes though it. 7 or 8, 10mm bolts holding it on. Dont' replace but might be worth removing it, loctite the 5 screws on the backing plate, and then reinstall it with new sealant and a new o-ring. But then again, if it's not leaking behind the pump leaving it alone is fine too. Just if the oil light comes on while drivng SHUT IT DOWN and DO NOT restart it until the pump is checked.
  13. Gloyale
    You can try cutting the end off a garden hose, and using it to flush the heater core. remove both lines and hook up the garden hose to one of them and turn it on and flush till the water is clear. Switch lines and flush in reverse. Repeat til satisfied. Often this helps........but honestly, removeing the core and cleaning out the ducting is often worth it too on a car that has been sitting.
  14. Gloyale
    LMAO That's wishful thinking. The car was only EPA rated at 23-25 brand new. 19-22 is about average for these cars with high miles. espescially the autos. Here's the EPA page. Look at the automatic, 4wd wagon. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymake/Subaru1990.shtml
  15. Gloyale
    Technically every electrical load will use very tiny amount more gas as the Alt loads up and takes power from engine. So running the blower motor would technically use a tiny bit........I mean a tiny bit. So little it would probably not make 1mile extra e on a tank let alone anything noticable. I'm thinking that you need to read the codes.....but honestly, if it's running well then more likely the gauge is inaccurate. (there are 2 senders.....1 on each side of tank and the average between them is the level shown. If one goes bad it does weird things to the range the gauge operates in)
  16. Gloyale
    lower steering column. Remove the dash
  17. Gloyale
    High CO and HCs readings would suggest too lean at idle i think. Like vacuum leak Not enough fuel for the amount of Oxygen so the excess bonds with carbon = CO Coversely incomplete burn latent moisture in the air i.e. hydrogen bonds with Carbon rather than with Oxygen = HC Complete burn the oxygen and hydrogen will bond yeilding clean water or steam in the exhaust rather than HC or CO Carbons stay in short chains isolated as sooty material.
  18. Gloyale
    That PCV hose needs to be DOWNSTREAM of the MAF. Huge unmetered air leak. Change that setup ASAP.
  19. Gloyale
    Figuring an average VE (volumetric efficiency) of 80% and RPMs up to 6500 I'm only getting a CFM of 228. And that's a high VE, more like 70% on a stock engine. Go crazy and assume 100% VE and 8000 rpms and you still barely get 350 CFM needed. So a 390 CFM 4 barrel (style 4160, model 8007) would be WAAAY too much carb.........not enough vacuum to make the venturis work right. My buddy has that carb on his jeep and it's too much for the stock 4.2 six cylinder. (calculates needed CFM of 325) I'd stick with a progressive 2 barrel like the weber.
  20. Gloyale
    Searched with no luck. Anybody got the cometic part # for the gasket to put EJ22e heads onto the EJ25 block?
  21. Gloyale
    Coolant temp sensor is on the passenger side of the intake crossover. 2 prong with a connector like the Injectors have, but probably brown/orangish color.
  22. Gloyale
    Unless it's one with difflock, he's got a better trans in there already. 5spd, 3.9 D/R pt4wd with the 1.59 lo. The only advantage to an EJ box would be an EJ clutch. He just needs a 2.2
  23. Gloyale
    dcp-306-xx look it up as an 83 brat to exlude any of the later type EA82 carb kits (what you got) here's a link to a kit at autozone that works http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1983-Subaru-Brat-GL/Carburetor-Kit/_/N-iv2diZ8vd1z?filterByKeyWord=carburetor+kit&fromString=search
  24. Gloyale
    ????? Why would you trust a switch known to fail over the ECU to control??? I also don't like the switch being in the radiator, because it's monitoring the radiator temp, not the actual temp of the engine. You installed a relay. Why not wire it up to actually control the fan?
  25. Gloyale
    Legacy radiator would have a vent screw on the passenger side at the top. But If the openings on it are the same size as the outlets on the EA82 engine.......it is an EA82 radiator. Also, if you didn't have to chop out the lower Core support of your car.......it's an EA82 radiator. Also, if you still have a thermoswitch mounted in the radiator to control the electric fan......It's an EA82 radiator. Also, if the fan itself bolted right to it.......it's an EA82 radiator. Bottom line.......it's an EA82 radiator. Legacy radiators will not "fit right in" without modification to the car
×
×
  • Create New...