Gloyale

The rear support bushing will rip if left bolted to the body. Can't drop the whole plate unless you reshape the D/R lever. Only real fix is to simply extend the shifter rod linkage, and the stay rod too.

In Oregon it's not legal to add lights above the level of the bumper. The original ones are probably OK? Can't see them actually ticketing you for original equipement but I've definately been pulled over for 2 lights mounted top the top of the bumper....supposed to be offroad only.

They are the same. Superceded part #s would be my guess. I've never differentiated between them but you could put the shiny ones at the diff maybe Zinc/galv coated more rust resistant?

it might have thought you were in a "power" or "sport" mode as far as Torque Converter lockup. That's more likely what you were feeling. Since you stabbed the gas suddenly, it thought you were in a more spirited driveing session, like hard corners, on off throttle....so it was locking the TC to give you more engine braking and control in the transistions. When you are cruising, and let off the throttle, it doesn't lock the TC for gas mileage reasons........kinda lets you "coast" a bit down the hills a bit until you are completely off throttle for a few moments.

Some sprockets have a notch on front too. You can tell by the way it's centered in relation to the curved ovals, and the lack of keyway in photo, that the sprocket is correct (keyway down is aligned w/marks) But it's one tooth off to my eye. That's not a Turbo belt is it???

I don't think it will fit. Not positive.

Yeah the new chinese stuff is junk Better off with a reman honestly best bet is a good OE subaru axle, but those are really getting rare. Even out west here. Most all I find now have had axles replaced, so JY is a crap shoot too. It's all a crap shoot. Good thing they are easy to change.

I install them all the way into the plate, then grind the back until the bolt is flush. that way each of the 4 upper bolts has the maximum thread "bite"

Prys out like a seal. Seal puller, gonna mangle it just try not to gouge the aluminum. Order a new cap, and you will see what they look like before removing yours.

The marks on the PULLEYS line up every 2 rotations. Marks on the belt are the ones that don't line up. I don't think his belt even has marks...looks like a kevlar. (saw in the other thread) Bgambino, you can get in there without removing radiator. just remove fans. as for filling radiator, do it through the upper hose. Leave it on the engine and take it off the radiator, lift it up and poor in coolant til it is full and then reconnect. Fill the radiator the rest of the way.

Did you make the pink mark? The other marks are white, and the white mark on the drivers side is not aligned? Also, I'm not sure what you mean by "CAT" wires being in the way of removing valve covers? I can't think of how the o2 sensor wires to the cat could be in the way of that? At any rate the Crank is one tooth off of aligned in your "after photos with the blue belt. But the pass side and you say drivers are perfectly lined up. Definately one tooth off on the crank pulley.

No offense, but this is in the wrong section Move to the "for sale" section

Battery clamps can be replaced with standard type. But you will want to get the type with a post to attach the cable and Fusible link pigtail. Easier and better than the strip and clamp type.

Yeah.....we understand. What Loyale2.7 was saying is to close that hole with JB weld. Fill it and file it flat. use a regular base gasket provided.

Rotors not turned on the last brake job and/or cheapie pads. At any rate I see alot of little rock/dust embedded into that rotor. Also, it's starting to get wet for the first time in a while around the PNW here, that alone can contributue to brake squeal. Seriously, I've inspected 4 cars this week that came in "for brakes" on;y to tell them their brakes are fine.....just cheaply done last time, and now squealing while wet. If you got money your sick of looking at, then turn the rotors and get premium pads.

This kind of comradery is why I love Subarus, and the USMB family. FWD, xt6 huh? can you say FWD 5 lug FT.............W?

He needs a 85-94 from an EA82 vehichle. The EA81 arms(80-84) will not fit CORRECTLY. Worth noting, he could use a 4wd arm.....but would need to have a correct 4wd shock to match. Wheel bearings would be more expensive and labor intense too.

I disagree. You can pull the trans in about an hour without having to remove PS pump, Alternator, AC, Etc.....not to mention drain the coolant and disconnecting battery and fuel lines spilling fuel. Pulling the trans the only fluid you may need to top off when done is the trans fluid. Although if you disconnect the rear of the driveline, and leave the driveline in the back of the trans while lowering it you won't even lose any of that.

Plastic plug gone is the #1 cause of non-working cruise I've encountered. Hope it fixed it.

I would agree axle to be #1 suspect. But believe me, I've had to change wheel bearings 2-3 times a year in my wheeler.....depending on how much mud, water, and sand I drive in. Balljoints can also be trashed from just one solid hit.

Uh.....Guys.....the gas tank is still there. Don't you guys see it?

Early 4eat guts should work everything except the rear output but even many of those will swap over. the 90-97 EJ 4eat is mostly identical, and if you are worried about haveing spares you can use the EA bell/diff on the EJ trans.

And as far as swapping, it isn't easily possible. The pinion shaft in the difflock cars are alot longer. Search around, there were Dual Range fultime/difflock trannies used in 87-89 RX's

You won't get more power you'll just use more gas. teh 38/38 is a synchronus setup, dumping both barrels all the time. Unless you add Cams, and port the heads, up compression, etc........then you won't see any real benefit except noise and fuel consumption.

Rubber plug in the center behind bumper