Gloyale

Horn has voltage always. the wire that is hooked to the horn through the steering wheel is the GROUND side of that circuit. HOwever, you should find voltage on both wires in that circuit (horn hooked up) and one side of the circuit should drop to ground when the horn button is pressed.

"limit" switch on the clutch pedal lands on a little rubber stop. That stop often wears away and is gone. Take a look at that limit switch and make sure it's actually getting pushed in. It should be closed circuit when depressed, and open when the clutch is pushed in (switch pin unloaded)

The 2 sides of the headlight system are tied toghether through the switch before reaching body ground. So when one side fails to get 12v, the other side light glows dimly because the voltgage on the ground return path is higher than the voltage on the dead side of the circuit. Whenever you see an old subie, or most any older Japanese car, with a very dim light only on one side....it is surely a power supply issue to that circuit. Either the fuse is blown, or the relay is faulty.

If you can find the housing from a fat case EA71 you can. Easier to swap to EA81 engine with 5spd dual range. Easier because easier to find. fat case EA71 not very many in hatches only mostly 2wd

Those are actually toyota wheels but yes for sure those will work. They are actually the best when it comes to offset.....there are only a few other types with that shallow offset that fits inside the subie fenders. Drill your holes acurate and not too much larger than the wheel stud. Use the flat side of the nut against the rim instead of the beveled.

4.11 or 3.9 or any other ratio final drive will not matter in your case for rear output. Purely a function of the lower shaft speed. The lower shaft DRIVES the pinion in the final drive.......so it's "upstream" so to speak in the whole crawl ratio equation. Use whatever subaru trans you can find with the lowest first gear ratio....which actually might be a 3.9 or even like a 3.7 turbo single range. (Best I can find in my research is 3.545 in the old and newer 3.9 and 4.11 boxes. 2wd EAs have a 3.633? The 3.7turbo boxes have lower 2nd-5th ) The 1st gear ratio, not the final drive is what matters here. Using just the rear output, you can even remove the front diff and ring gear entirely, and put freeze plugs in the front outputs.

The body style is considered "ea81" unofficially anyhow, since most of these era cars came with that engine when the body was introduced. BUT, the "DL" or base model hatches, While called an "EA81 Hatch" body type, used a EA71 engine, with a single range 4wd. This is the "fatcase" EA71....which other than stroke is about identical to the EA81 so you may need to order somethings like Oilpump/seals and belts and such as if it was an EA81. Tell you what, look at the top/front of the engine, just below the Distributor. There will be a stamping on the bolck that says either "EA71" or "EA81" This will tell you for sure. But to me it's doubtful someone would have swapped "in" a single range trans......ussually the opposite is the case. So it would make the most sense that the car started life as a 1600, single range "standard". Either way, you can upgrade to a dual range 4spd or 5spd. I believe (not entirely sure) though you're flywheel will be too small(200mm/ 7-7/8") for either dual range clutch setups'(225mm/ 8-7/8"), so you;ll need a flywheel and clutch too.

The 2 large bearings on the mainshafts are good to replace. Along with the input bearing in the front. It's housed in the retainer at the front of the topshaft.

If your trans is single range, it's not from an 84 brat. all manual trans second gen brats had 4spd dual range trans. Weber carb will not yeild 30 hp increase. I'm not convinced they add any power at all, just make it louder and "less cluttered" under the hood. I personally preffer the Hitachi carbs, and a few air bleed hoses don't scare me. Help us help you here and please tell us the year, model, and engine OF THE CAR! not what year you think the trans is from....not very helpful information.

Maybe like a Picasso. lol That car has been the "prototype" bed. the production kits are alot cleaner but just as strong.

Subaru has added more bolts to the bell as HP increases. I just think M8 is just too small to be for main engine bolts. 50hp Volkswagen had stronger bolts than that.

Line it up and look. There isn't enoguh meat there. You need the 12mm thickness spacer of the adapter plate too.

Most places sell the legacy ones now for the older 3rd gen EA82 cars. FWIW, the legacy ones WILL work. Just install the ball post into the upper of the bolt holes on the door frame. The brackets on the door will bolt right in. We have this setup on my GF's Loyale. And b oth types new or old style are symetrical, not identical. There is a left and right.

I don't think they bottomed out, the holes ussually go all the way through. I think you didn't crush the spring washers nearly enough. They were compressed, pinning the pulley somewhat tight against the flange, but not enough. May not be able to get enough force on them to really crush the washer to a "zero" point against the flange. No lockwashers are used on the original nuts. I would suggest not using any when you reassemble.

Hate to say it but I don't think that's realistic with subaru drivetrain Engine, trans, diff, and wheels/tires weigh about 600lbs. Not to mention axles, seats, a frame......and of course the driver. If it is possible it would definately have to be a VERY lightweight tube frame with no glass, doors.

Yeah I don't like the SJR style where the engine side bolts are smaller to go through the Original threaded holes in the engine bell. I don't think drilling and tapping and welding on teh bellhousing is a good idea either. Our HighGuys plates use M10 bolts for both sets of holes. Requires drilling out the threads from the engine bolt holes so the M10 will fit through. With that said, I've also seen lots of adapters setup with offset welded bolts. Very good method as well, If that's what your palte was setup for, then I would just go with it like that.

HighGuysLifts.com PM me for more info.

Channel that runs through the bumper beam sounds like it will work. ONce you do that, I think you'd be fine to tow up to about 1000 lbs. The area in the body that the bumper bolts to is pretty strong. Might bend a bit if you get too much tongue weight, but not from a 300 lb boat.

Yeah, I surely am not the first to have this idea, or have done something similar. Covergent evolution and what not.....I digress. I've actually done several this way before, just thought I'd finally take some pictures. Sorry half of them are upside down, and out of focus. Just trying to document all the little tricks and tips every subaru nut should know about the old school. I figure the more little tips are out there, the more the desire and ability of people to keep them around.

It was an okay idea, but leaves no travel. Probably would blow the tube off the perch/notches. Honda springs stiffer it up, but leave some travel still. Don't be affraid to cut a bit of coil if they are a tad stiff at first. Maybe 1/2 coil? 3/4?

Stamp on the left upper side of the rim "T14x4.0T" I think thats a donut rim. 4 inches wide is pretty slim. So uhhhhh, yeah the offset will be weird but should technically "fit" and ea82. not sure If you'd wanna use those on a regular basis.

If you didn't reinforce the attachment arms that goe forward into the body I wouldn't tow anything with that setup. Those bumpers are not made to hold any pulling force, or any downward "tongue" weight. Seriously.....the spot welds will rip right out......do not tow with that setup unless you take it out and reinforce the attachment of the brackets to the main beam......alot.

Your H6 didn't have a "Headgasket issue" from age, or proneness to failure. It failed from an old hose failing, losing coolant, and being driven to the point of overheating shutdown. NOW it has a headgasket issue from overheating. I feel bad for you, and really everyone who lives in the rustbelt where they MAKE SURE you will have to buy a new car every 5-10 years or it will rust away beneath you. The salt is hell on rubber as well, so where the rubber meets metal (hose clamp) there will always be issues. I think a used engine could be a good solution. Just make sure to install new hoses and clamps and probably a new rad cap and thermostat too.

Pull the oil pump off. Protect the openings and mating faces of the aluminum block with some fireproof welding mat or gloves, and then weld and grind the keyway fitting. you can even weld the key inplace if needed just make sure it's in the correct position and file it till the pulleys fit back over. TIG would be best but a good MIG machine (W/gas, or it's not really MIG) will do just fine. Reinstall the oil pump and and do a reseal maybe a t-belt and you've got a good engine again.

Looks nice with that axle back there. (nver thought I'd say that about a subaru) at any rate will be a fun ride I wonder about axle wrap and side slip. Any triangulation in the works?