Gloyale

Do you want a good daily driver or a race car? I would go for an EJ22 for a DD......maybe a SOHC 2.5 or EJ22 heads on a phase II 2.5 (frankie) The EJ20g for a "race" car. WOuld not want to drive this everyday. Mostly because turbo'd DD's suck gas and need too much maintainance and have limited lifespan vs. N/A An STI EJ257 would be an airplane without wings. Along with what toonga mentioned above, you will need some hybrid axles with 25 spline inner cups...OR open the gear box and put 23 spine axle stubs into the front diff. FWIW, you don't neeed a surge tank. Espescially if you go with an N/A motor. Just gonna want to keep the fuel level above 1/3 of a tank if you are wheeling or hard cornering. My lifted EA81 wagon with EJ22 won't stall unless below 1/4 tank and then only when VERY off center/tilted.....espescially if the right side is higher side.

Yeah the 2wd EA82 stuff is the same as the late 4spd 4wd stuff. i.e. the forks, TO bearing, and the clutch discs are shared. So I think you DID get an EA82 fork, but for a 2wd 5spd.......which is basically the same as the 4wd EA81 fork......which would also account for the colour. They definately are not the ones you need. The HillHolder connection is a concrete distinction that it is not the right fork.

Throw out bearing looks normal. The bearing "floats" a bit on the center collar. You may have gotten a 4spd fork. To my knowledge they are not the same as the 5spd. Although the colors match up. (4spds blue, and 5spds black) I'll take a look at my partts shed tommorow

Or cracked. The EA81 pumps are known for that.

It's not gone. You still have a Evap solenoid located under the #1/3 intake runners. Check that the solenoid is not broken, disconnected, etc... The hardlines you mentioned are indeed for the evap. The larger one is the vent line from the tank, the smaller one goes to the solenoid, which when it opens connects to the intake. Pluggin the lines may work. The evap may not be the problem. But IMO, FWIW, that you should install a canister from a Legacy. Nothing to lose. I focus on the EVAP system because it's the one system that "opens" or on;y comes into play once warmed up.

So recently I replaced the factory adjustables on my 86 EA82 wagon. I had the old adjustables cranked to the high setting to help clear my 215/70/15 tires. The new shocks had a spring perch that sat a bit lower, (3/4 in.) on the shock than were it was in the high position with the adjustables. So hears what I did to mimic the extra preload/height of the old ones using the new shocks. I did need a pair of old spring perches from another non-adustable EA82 shock set. lucky for me I've got tons of suba-spoob everywhere. here's the pics, pretty self explainitory New perch knocked off the new strut. Flipped over and slid back on Old set of perches slid on "correct" way to make lip to hold the spring Finished, spring perch raised about 3/4 inch from factory setting. Note this mod takes away a tiny bit of the "uptravel" of the shock. About 1/2 inch. Which for me is fine since I don't want the tire to be able to "stuff" too far into the wheel well and rub.

Teh spring would be so compressed once assembled, that there would be no travel left. The coils would be touching eachother. might as well put a solid bar in there. Similar in concept to this mod I've done, but much less extreme. I used the old spring perch from an old shock, flippped over underneath the perch of the new shock.

That service bulletin is for the newer models. I believe post +06 models with active valve timing/lift. The old EA82t oil line has no screen in it.

I believe it just pops up. Pry under with a trim knife. The pieces on the door have screws in the ends under the top of the rubber door seals.

my 97 did the same thing. Was told by the AC tech that charged the system it was "normal" I didn't think so, but it has been like that for months and months, and AC still works fine.

You need to unsecrew the brass caps that cover the emulsion tubes. take them out and blow them out. Looking at it won't do nothin. As for assembly, there is a diagrahm with teh kit. There is on;y one little ball and it goes in the bottom of the accel pump well. And those aren't vac lines attached to the carb. not most of them anyhow. they are the air bleeds, and you cannot cap them. they need to be hooked up to the hoses that cam off. There are small "orifice" pellets inside the tubes that restrict the airbleed, maintaining mixture rates. Put the carb back toghether and put it on the intake and take a picture of the carb and your hoses. I'll tell you where they go.

That's definately not a 4EAT. Maybe a 5EAT, never seen one apar.t The 4EAT you cannot remove or even see the plantary sets with the rear housing removed. I think that may be the only set of gears in there, and they are used just for reversing like press suggested.

A good machinist will pop the Ring gear off the flywheel first. Step IIRC should be .815 Biggest issue some have had with using the EA81 flywheel, is that it's thicker overall. Sits further into the bell of the EA82 5spd. Might need to space the starter out with a few washers.

Those would be the O2 sensor and the Coolant temp sensor. I am thinking you've got a vaccum leak on the EVAP solenoid circuit. When it opend to vent the canister after warmup, it is opening the Vac leak. Jsut a though. How do you have your evap system set-up? do you have a canister in place?

stands for Engine Control Computer Runs, choke on 49 state carbed cars, and feedback ECU on CA carbed cars. there are 2 fuses labeled this way. On says ECC ( B ) which is constant 12v and on says ECC (IG) which is the switched power to the FPCU, or CPU, whichever the car has.

Check diff fluid for shavings. repairing a front diff runs about $1200 all sadi and done. Can you replace the car with anything better for $1200? probably not.

Remove the clip, then Cut a notch in the tab. It can be ugly, bend it, get the line out. NOW, for installing the new strut.....you want to cut a clean notch, just wide enough for the line to fit through. Don't bend anything. DO it cleanly and the clip will slide back in and hold the brake line just like "normal" You can also unbolt the hose from the caliper, and slide it though the tab. This is how they are assembled factory. But will require refilling and bleeding the brakelines after. I do it the other way, because I don't want to mess with brakes just to do struts. Shocks you need are KYB 335020 and 335021

There is a bad batch of ALTs out there I bought a few from Carquest. Is the Alternator a new one? replaced recently? Bad circuit on the yellow "S" terminal. Only affects 90-94 models where the ECU switched power is directly tied to the "S" terminal of the ALT. Check to see if your Check Engine light, and your charge warning lights come on with the Key on/eng off. If they flash, or there are relays clicking with Key on/Eng off, then it's the alt.

Will make it sit up stiff and tall, but since you aren't making the strut longer you will be shortening the amount of travel.

Ea81 headgaskets only take about 2 hours to replace start to finish.

You don't need an adapter to use the PT4wd trans in with the EJ18. Put the guts and tailsection into an EJ trans front case and use an EJ flywheel and clutch. Can't do that with the D/R though.......single range EJ case has no fitting for Low range set. So from a trans use standpoint, and no needing to source any adapters or redrill flywheels, this would be a good plan. It would be easier to have a seperate SPFI harness to swap to the brat though...........pulling it from the loyale harness and then still needing to use that harness in the loyale for lights, radio, etc. could be a real pain.

If you are gonna hope the HG aren't actually blown, then why not put the hitachi back on? They are super easy to clean out and reassemble. You got the kit, why not give it a try? The "coolant" looks more like water with a slight mineral content. Not much green coolant there. Sludge could be from watery mix or Orange coolant mixed in at some point. With a mixture this watery, it's probably reaching close to boiling, overpressurizing, and steaming off. That would explain loss of coolant. It is not enough to just run water. It will boil, steam out, and corrode the engine while it's at it. Don't make any cooling system judgements until you have run it with a correct mix, fully burped. So for that reason I would at least give the carb rebuild a try. See if it runs better. It will get is sealed and running again for diagnosisi, and even if the HGs are blown, you will have the carb running good so you can do the HGs and go. The carb and the HGs are really seperate issues, so don't make decisions on one based on the other.

Don't swap carbs. First.....change the fuel filter(s) and make sure the timing/spark is good (good plugs, cap, rotor) After that, if you still have hesitation, take the top off the carb and clean out the emulsion tubes, jets, and bottom of the bowl to get grit/gunk out. Reseal/rebuild kit is less than $25. You don't need to take the carb off the intake, just ake off the top of the carb. There is one very small cotter pin that holds the choke linkage that's a bit tricky......otherwise it's really easy. take off the accel pump linkage (note the washer setup) then remove the five screws from the top. Unclip the wires from the side. Disconnect teh one that goes to the choke so they won't catch when you flip the top over. Honestly it's super easy. Takes less than an hour to do a good job. Will run like a whole new car when done.

There is one extra line on teh evap canister. Otherwise fuel system is the same except Turbo MPFI cars have slightly larger supply line. You can leave the fuel system as is. HOnestly though this will be alot of work for not much improvement, and the turbo motor WILL crap out sometime, likely sooner than later. Save up and do an EJ22 swap for the same work/time effort.

Turn off the parking light switch on top of the steering column Welcome to the subaru world. Consider your cherry popped