Gloyale

NO Double NO... WTF do you think a "Power Band" is? this. When VSS is faulted Subaru engines will not rev past 4K RPMs. It's a failsafe. Almost any time anyone talks about "will not rev past 4K" it is 9 out of 10 times a VSS fault.

completely different electronics. And completely different heads....so you can't bolt the 99 2.2 intake onto a 98 or earlier 2.2 99-2001 2.2 only, or a 99-2005 2.5 SOHC will bolt in with your intake (2.5 will require dual port exhaust too)

good to know

So I cut up the oil filters. First one (from the OE turbo failure)was dark and sludgey, but there was no sign of debris Second one (from the 2 replacement turbos) had nothing but clean fresh oil in it. the oil cooler had been leaking pretty badlyat it's upper o-ring, but the Oil cooler itself showed no signs of blockage or debris. Same for oil pickup tube. Pickup is not cracked either. it's O-ring seamed fine still. Debating tearing the timing belt off and inspecting the oil pump. Don't really want to, but it may be called for.

On this 04 the Turbo feed line and the AVCS use the same port on the back of the pass head. Didn't replace the screen, but I did verify that it is clear and flowing.

There is no upper balljoint on this model. The tires will fit.

DL, not a halogen fixture. He can simply bolt in a replacement fixture that fits the OE quad lamps hole. Still obnoxious and I will shine my brights at him happily. I hate HIDs

the 2 white wires will go to were the 2 black wires are (heater circuit) The other 2.......try them one way and if it throws a code immediately switch them to the other way.

4 pin coil is for Phase II engines. (W/O transitor/igniter) Will not work. someone probably swapped whole engine from 96/97 model.

you would have to machine the mating surface for the added thickness as in the EA82 it's a zero clearance situation where the ER27 allows room for the thickness of the rubberized metal clips.

First one I installed without pouring anything in the oil feed first. But I did leave the Banjo bolt cracked and cranked engine without starting until oil flowed out to verify oil to the unit. Then tightened it down and started. Second one I poured oil down the feed hole until it began pouring out of the drain line. Then installed and checked for flow to the unit again before starting.

Hmmm.... the way I read this article, it is listing a loose or missing compressor nut as a CAUSE of oil starvation to the bearing... From the link "Damage symptoms and causes —Rotor shaft is jammed or blocked Cause: Inadequte oil supply due to the shaft bearing obstructing the oil system (ill 3.) — Shaft nut loose or removed on compressor side. Cause: Delays, i.e. blocked rotor shaft. Result: Shaft nut leaves impact marks in the funnel of the compressor casing or on the compressor wheel........" Kinduv a Chicken or Egg scenario, but the way I am reading this......an incorrect bearing, or an incorrectly installed bearing could have blocked the oil supply (since I've verified oil supply to the unit) and caused the shaft to stall. And THEN that caused the shaft to bind kicking the nut off The reason I am so strongly feeling that the problem is in the turbos is that the nut failures were so sudden. Very little wear on the bearings or shafts at all. Not compared to the OE unit which was ground to hell, but still had the shaft nut tightly in place. Both replacements tossed that nut with hardly any wear showing on the shaft, in a matter of minutes. Seriously less than 2-3 mins of driving either time.

also make sure the air filter housing is clamped correctly. IIRC on that model, the lower edge has tabs that slip into the other half. If you don't get them clipped in correctly it makes an air leak that would act like that.

should fit. Might barely touch the mudflaps in front if you have them. will be slightly larger than stock but not much. Definately will clear the spring perches.

I suggest you check the Coolant Temp Sensor. Hard start intermittently is often this. ICM or "Ignition Transistor" seldom fail. And if they do, it's usually a hard fail, not intermittent.

No clips, rings or seals on the cam tower except the main oil port O-ring on EA82. Only on the ER27 Some folks have smeared a very thin, and I mean very thin, layer of RTV on the 2 spots where the oil crosses over and into the pressure relief valve. (2 oval ports in the middle)

We did put new oil in and verified the oil supply through the lines. And note when I said loose, I mean just barely, and in a wedge pattern......meaning they wore because the vanes of the impeller where pushing against the housing after loss of the nut, which puts a side load on the radial bearings and a major angled force on the thrust bearing, which showed the most wear.......Even still........we are talking about tiny scratches not chewed up, ground away metal like your pics......If we hadn't measured the ID of radial bearings, you might not know they were worn at all. Only the thrust bearing plate (with the tiny feed hole) showed real sign of "grinding" Since I posted yesterday we went ahead and removed the oil pan. No "debris" to be found. There was a bit of sludgy stuff in the bottom of the pan, but nothing metallic, and like I said, there had been oil flow to the turbo. I removed the oil cooler also, this car has a "double stack" assembly that actually points the oil filter back away from the exhaust. 4 O-rings to seal it....geez. Gonna clean that and replace the oil pickup tube o-ring as well. No signs of trouble with it though. Didn't cut open the filter yet, but I will later today and see what that reveals. I would LOVE to find something that takes away the mystery, even if it's bad news.....but right now it's still a head scratcher.

Your car is from 900 years in the future and going through temporal withdrawl.

Well, verified 80 PSI at idle, 95+ PSI at 3500 rpms AT THE TURBO line. tsb is to replace the screen, not remove it. I didn't replace but the OE screen is clear and flowing....See above oil pressure readings. Original did not lose the nut. Only the 2 replacements did. And they did it within a couple miles. Shaft on the second reman looked nothing like the above worn out chewed up one. (didn't inspect the first reman guts) It was barely scored, bearings still looked good, nearly new. It was clear that the bearings only had wear because the nut came off and allowed the thrust change, wobbling around and such. Everything looked nearly new except the thrust bearing pieces had significant wear. The radial bearings (brass bushes with holes in them really) looked fine but measured as too loose.

checked the banjo screen and it was clear. Mounted MAF directly to the throttle, looped coolant lines toghether, and stuck a bolt through banjo fitting that bolts to turbo to block it off, and ran engine without the turbo. It ran fine. No smoke. No misfires, no CEL. Cracked loose the bolt on the banjo and oil pushed out with gusto.......Pretty sure there is good oil to turbo, but going back to the car and putting a gauge on it later today to confirm with a PSI number.

So I got a head scratcher here. Need some other brains to think of possibilities here. Backstory : 04 Forester XT. Unknown history, but overall in good shape, 145k miles, ran well except for a large amount of black smoke and lacking full boost. Removed Turbocharger, it had lots of obvious shaft play, bearing and seal failure. Took the turbo to a local, reputable turbo repair shop. All they do is reman turbos, mostly for diesel trucks and semis, but they do smaller gas turbos too. They rebuilt our turbo using a pre-assembled and balanced shaft assembly supposedly from a reputable european company. We installed the turbo on the car. Ran good for about 1/4 mile then started making bad sounds and boost was intermitent. Turbo sounded awful, so we remove it again.....heres where it gets weird. THE SHAFT NUT WAS MISSING! it had spun loose and then gotten sucked through the turbine and was found in the intercooler. damaging the turbine. So we take it back to the turbo shop. They are confused, first saying that it must be an issue with the engine. Insisting it must be backfiring. Well, it wasn't....ran smooth as butter, no CEL. We verified oil feed to turbo while engine running, and engine was not backfiring. Anyhow, they get us another shaft assembly and housing and reman it again. We install it. This time there was alot of smoke on start up......we figured some coolant/oil fell down the uppipe upon the last removal. So we warm it up, take it for a test drive. This time it did well for about 2 miles.....then same issues again.....noise, loss of boost. Remove turbo again......SAME ISSUE!!! the nut has spun off....this time it got kicked forward into the plastic intake tube that runs under the IM and stayed there in a groove in the tube. So we go back to the shop......Shop owner is apologetic and confused. His lackey was more rude, insisting that "well that engines eaten three turbos, somethings wrong". While in a sense that's true, I point out the the first turbo indeed had failed bearings, but its shaft nut stayed in place. Asked if he's ever seen a turbo fail and the shaft nut come off?.....He scratches his head and then admits "No". So even if there had been an oil failure, that doesn't explain why the nut came off. Additionally, the lackey said "I checked the torque on that before it went out" This made me alarmed, because when I brought the second failed unit in, he had begun trying to fit the nut back on the shaft by threading it right hand......except this is a left hand threaded unit....specifically to keep the natural rotation forces from loosening the nut! He seemed to not know this! But then pretended that "oh yeah, I knew that" when I called him on it. In fairness, their shop is filled with literally hundreds of turbos for service of all sizes and types, and they do have a stellar reputation in the area. Hard to tell what's BS and what's not. They are going to order parts for one more, and this time the shop will disassemble and reassemble and re-balance the unit themselves to verify. They have asked me to verify oil pressure. And any other possible engine issue. we are about ready to demand our money back, take to small claims etc....and just buy a genuine Subaru reman for a few hundred more. My question here is a) has anyone seen this type of failure, nut coming off? Is there any possible way that the VVT system is taking oil feed away from turbo when it activates? They do share the same banjo fitting feed off the passenger head. (BTW, I checked the screen it's a-okay) c) Is there any way a fault in the tumble generator system could cause back pressure in the intake similar to a backfire (but this engine is not actually back fireing, and there are no CEL codes) turbo experts rack yer noggins!

just dual tips out of the same muffler. Not a true dual exhaust.

the big red plastic piece outer seperates from the inner plastic "frame" Remove it (about 8 or 9 8mm nuts) wash it thouroughly with hot soapy water. Let dry inside near a heater (not too near) Smear one continuos bead of RTV (i like "the Right Stuff brand") making sure to really get it down into the groove, along the top. fixed 3 or 4 of them this way now. If your sunroof is leaking (water dripping through headliner) you gotta drop the headliner, and put clamps on the vinyl hose were it attaches to the sunroof tray gutters. the vinyl hose gets brittle and stops sealing tightly....water drips right out.

looks to be normally closed. Grounding pin 4 would open the circuit.

$435? you got overcharged. I literally just did the same job for a customer with an 06 Outback turbo. Outer rim of pulley walked back into timing cover. also destroyed A/C clutch wiring. Replaced center timing cover (new) a/c compressor (used) and pulley (used) for $350 TOTAL It was only 1.5 hours to do it all.