Gloyale

98 is electronic. Most likely the speed sensor that screws into the trans is bad. I replace a few every year.

Spark plug sockets have a shoulder on them for a 3/4 socket. So my method is #1= slip in plug socket #2= slip in a 3/4 deep well socket #3= attach wobble #4 attach extension and ratchet handle and remove plug. Reinstall: reverse order except as Gary said either remove the rubber washer from the plug socket. Or use a bit of di electric grease to lube the waher and make sure it won't come out of the socket, but will come off the plug easily. You don't want to have that rubber washer stuck on the plug down inside the spark plug well.

Great. Sounds like you got this one tackled pretty well.

Very little "Hacking" involved. None really. Done the right way, the only wiring needing modified is the EJ engine wiring harness. You aren't even modifying it so much as seperating it from all the headlight, trans, horn, wipers etc.....circuits on the car. Then that harness is added to the EA car. there are 3 connections to make it run. Batt 12v+, IG. 12v+, and 12v+ out to fuel pump. Then there are about 6 or 7 other wires to hook up for Check Engine Light, Tach, VSS, Nuetral switch. You can simply splice these wires onto the original EA wiring for the same things.....easy in a car that already had MPFI. All of the original wiring can stay in place on the off chance you MIGHT go back to an EA engine (unlikely) but you could if you wanted all stock wiring stays intact. the one "hack" exception I can think of is that on the MPFI EA cars only, the fuel pump is grounded through the ECU......so to use the EJ fuel pump relay, you need to cut the ground wire for the pump and attach it to ground. (it goes all the way back to the ECU in factory setup)

Might want to stick some 23 spline stubs into the front diff while it's all apart. That way you can use stock axles. Also, I do hope Jerry knows you are using the AWD tailsection. His "regular" kit is for the Part Time 4wd EA82 5spds, which are shorter and mount a bit different. Make sure you get the opening in the C-clip on the big bearing in place. Make sure the big bearing on the lower shaft the bolt holes are oriented correct. Make sure the pinion and front upper shaft bearing seat on there pins properly.

L terminal should be ground when S recieves 12v alt not spinning (eng off) Alt seems to be working but has fault on the L circuit. Not grounding lamp and also spiking over 15 volts when excited means that the ALT has a problem in the voltage regulator inside.

You need the backing plate and hubs from a Turbo GL, GL-10, or XT to use the disc brakes. Yes any harness will work. 90-94 ECU and harness are simple/stupid computers that work well for the swap. Non-interference motor all dual port no EGR. Newer model leagacies(95-99) the ECU will want to see fuel temp/pressure sensors which won't be on the Brat. Easier to strip, OBD-II compatible......but more likely to have a CEL On for something missing like EGR, Fuel temp...etc..... I keep getting a code in my 96 harness swap for "Mnufacturers EMmissions Control" that I can't figure out how to get rid of even with temp/pressure sensors installed. Motors vary, some EGR, some not. 95 Dual port non-interference. 96 Single port non-interference. 97-98 single port interference. 99 phase II block/heads interference single port totally different heads/intake more like SOHC 2.5 IMO 96 EJ22 Impreza is best harness to use for easy strip and OBD-II. But OBD-I ECUs are better for not throwing CEL.

Red wire at MAF should have 12v key on/eng off Black wire should have full continuity to ground, less than 10ohms. White wire is signal output. Testing between Black and White wire should show 0.1-0.5 volts. while blowing though MAF this voltage should increase.

If you are using a 25d block/crank, then I'd use the 96 or 97 25d pistons. The Turbo ones will yeild lower compression. But may come proud out of the block when used with the 25d rods. Would need a thick headgasket so lower comp still. The 06 sohc pistons will not work with the 2.2 heads. They have a semi dome section that protrudes into the heads on the Variable lift engines. If you are using a 251-3 block/crank, you could use the 04 SOHC pistons.

Repair cost vs. Car value is a false equivalency. Can't compare car value to the repair value unless you are planning on selling it immediately after fixing. Otherwise, if you are planning on driving it....you have to compare Repair cost vs. REPLACEMENT cost. And you have to figure that almost any replacement is going to be in unknown condition so you have to add some cost to it figuring in the repairs IT will need. Think of it this way.......buy a car for 20,000 dollars.....drive it 10 years......sell it for 10,000.......even if you spent nothing else for repairs (unlikely) you've spent 10k to drive 10 years. 1k a year. Now lets talk about an older car you already own.......maybe you spent 10k on the car.....and have driven it 5 years. Now the car is broken down. in it's current state its only worth about 2k because it needs work. selling now would leave you paying 8k for 5 years.....not good. Spend 5k to fix it, and then sell it for 5k??? That's even worse right.....10k for 5 years.....yikes. What about fixing it and keeping it? Well let's see...15k total.......and with a new engine ready to drive another 7-10 years. Then sell it for 2k That's 13k for 12-15 years. driving........now we are getting better cost per years ownership than new. I guess my point is you have to consider the cost of ownership over time and mileage not the "value" of car.

I don't think it's replacable in the Denso version his 87 has.

150 hp is pretty lofty goal. they have 115 stock and can barely hold themselves toghether in that form. Up the boost and you'll be drinking coolant quickly. The heads crack into the exhaust port. If it runs well now, keep it stock and save your money up for the EJ22 swap. Dropping money into the EA82t is kinduv a waste. Do the minimum to keep it reliable (coolant hoses, timing belts, etc..) but don't try to "upgrade" it. You'll spend money to have your engine crap out sooner. Drop in the EJ22 or even better a "frankenmotor" 2.5 block with the 2.2 heads and ECU and you'll be reliably at 150hp with no turbo.

week injector?

If it's just a thread issue, buy a small file with a triangle shape and use it to clean up the threads. If not........any stub from a 4wd EA81 or EA82 will work. I could ship you one.....but likely you can find one closer.

That's an extension of KYBoutlet.com When you order from the outlet it actually is "justsuspension".com They are awesome.

My bet is on the "howling" being a wheel bearing in the back. The binding on turns is a seperate issue, problem with the center clutchpack or the Duty solenoid "C" HIGHLY doubt there is anything wrong with the rear diff. They just don't have issues.

DAMN!!!! Registered 2 cars, but can't go. Stuck home watching the house. We took in a VERY LARGE dog temporarily. She was becoming too much for her owner so we are fostering her for a few weeks finding a home. She's so big that if she wants to test her cage she could get out so gotta have someone home to watch her. hmm.......My GF gets home around 2pm and I could drive up there in about 2 hours.......is 4pm too late to show up and be in the show????? DAMN!DAMN!DAMN!!!

Bolt in if you get parts from an EA81 w/power steering. Using parts from newer models isn't too hard but would take some modification to the crossmemember.....and maybe the use of EA82 PS lines since the EA81 lines are not compatible with the newer EA82 and EJ pumps/racks.

Don't know about boss but my brother and I make lifts. HighGuysLifts.com or PM me on here.

Myself I would just drop the trans out the bottom. pop the axle pins, drop it down and back a few inches and the axles will come right off, no messing with hubs etc.... But if you want the engine out too, definately pull motor, then trans. Pulling an engine with a 4eat attached is crazy hard, espescially in a regular legacy. Least room between crossmember and dogbone mount, which is the hangup to pulling the 2 attached. I know it's one more step and a set of gaskets, but pulling the intake will make it all alot easier in terms of accessing the Torque converter bolts.

Subaru's proprietary OBD I system. For hooking up scanner at dealership pre-obd-II

kyboutlet.com Slow shipping (2 weeks) But the prices are great! and they are Genuine KYB GR-2s

I like it all. But I'm wondering if your 3rd pivot/brace shown here might interfere with the steering rack? Might need to make that brace arc shaped to fit over the inner tierods.

Yeah, with no rear speakers you are all good. OR..... if you run dedicated wires to the fronts and run the the rear speakers through the harness you are be fine.

Numbchux is in Minnesota. Probably your closest bet for getting a harness stripped. Otherwise, send it out to me in Oregon. I'll strip it and send it back labeled and ready to install with a list of were to hook everything up in your car. IIRC The tach pulse does need to be messed with a bit to make digidash work. It's been documented. Cruise control computer may not like the EJ speed signal either......but it's easy to swap in an EJ cruise computer instead which will be happy. Someone else solved it another way by modifying the circuit similar to what was done to make tach work. But I think it's easier to swap connectors at the cruise computer and use the EJ cruise computer. all the other EA cruise stuff can be used with the EJ computer.