Gloyale

If you have rear speakers your deck will burn out from the combined grounds.

I would replace the Front ring and pinion, and the support bearing for the pinion shaft. The Trans does not need rebuilt. The differential itself is probably fine just the Ring and Pinion worn from pinion walking fore/aft. $2200 seems low to COMPLETELY rebuild a trans, and makes me wonder if they aren't planning on just replacing the R+P and bearing and saying it's "rebuilt" If they are actually doing a complete "rebuild" for $2200 they would be using discount aftermarket parts. I would say leave the trans itself alone, order new ring and pinion and bearing from subaru and have it installed by a subaru specialist.

They charge alot more than $250 for SOHC EJ25s around here. Try at least $650 for a higher mileage(195k) , and $1200 for ones around 100k miles. (that's the prices of the last 2 I bought) I buy alot of engines, and get good pricing from the wreckers. I don't pull myself, but that's not gonna lower the price by 50%-80% if I did. They wreckers know that these engines are valuable to Subaru drivers, and Sandrail builders. They don't just give them away. Heck, they want $250 for a set 4 of half used tires.......There is no way they are gonna sell 2000+ model 2.5's for $250. Not realistic. I would vote for fixing the engine you have. The EJ251-3 are not known for bottom end (rod) issues like the later ones. Surface the heads, install new gaskets and T-belt and drive for another 5+ years.

Exhaust leak. If the studs strip out drill and tap for a 7/16th stud. No need to helicoil. If the 7/16th strips later, THEN you can helicoil it.

Fender bolts are all 10mm, all years. Early years have valence bolts with shallow heads but still 10mm Bumper bolts are 14mm. Don't forget to disconnect the wires for the turnsignals before pulling out bumper.

That's way too steep for a Gen 2......even with stock EA81 setup.....and he's got the wider EA82 setup. Like I said, about 5 degrees should be all you need.

SPFI, yes But turbo MPFI will still be under the dash, green test, and black for read/clear.

should be a direct bolt on if you get the k 730 kit

I would try to get a new harness from a 95-98 2.5 rather than adapt the older 90 harness to work with the 98 ECU/body wiring.

+1

Lo range switch is mounted under the center console. It probably isn't adjusted right, or is loose, or has something blocking it (gum wrappers, coins, hair ties, old potato chips, etc....)

That is the fast idle screw. turn in clockwise to reduce idle, Counter clockwise to increase it. Don't mess with the throttle stop screw

I'd say about 5 degrees for your setup. Not much cause with the wider EA82 track the tops don't have to "tuck in" so much.

I've always been able to bend them back. this was the first to snap. Probably a result of the way I cut and sleeved it. Already got ideas Of how I'm gonna sleeve and extend better next time.

<<<sings like Ernie from sesame street>>>>> Rubber Radius Arm, you're the one....... You make drivin' home so much ...... TERRIFYING WHITE KNUCKLE SKETCHINESS!!!! Seriously not too bad, a steady attentntive hand at the wheel and she felt fine. All the load transfered laterally through the rod without too much side to side motion.

1/2 watt is fine.

Dry the head thoroughly. Set the head with the exhaust ports up. and fill the exhaust chamber with brake clean, or mineral spirits, or carb cleaner or whatever. Some thin solvent. Watch the valve area (combustion chamber side) for any signs of leakage past the valves. Leave it overnight, 90 percent of the liquid should still be there, and no signs of wetness past the valves. If the exhaust pass, repeat for the intake valves. If the valves pass, inspect the headgasket again for any signs it had failed and was no holding compression. If that is good, then suspect the piston. pull the engine, the seperator plate, and then pull the wrist pin and piston for #3.

You can install a resistor (33ohm) across the solenoid connector this will turn the CEL off, but probably won't pass smog like that unless they just don't notice.

Could weld it but then you'd be stuck running locked on pavement all the time. some people do it with subarus, but I don't. I pull an axle all the time i'm on the street if I'm running my welded diff. I also have never broken a stub. Those that I know that have broken many stubs, and axles, all run welded on the pavement......building up stress in the metal, causeing it to fail when wheeling. Might as well go a bit beefier if you are gonna go to a solid axle.

are you sure you are measuring the idle switch voltage correctly? from pin c6 (Black/red wire) of the ECU?

Well, it was awesome. First time to Browns Camp No Subarus showed up. But we did run into this..... And I had some fun on the rock garden And then had to limp home after fixing this Sleeved it with a piece of heater hose and the bell/tube section from the broken EA81 rear shock that I had up front (broke with the radius rod) Here's my rubber Radius Rod. Crazy it made it home 90 miles of 55 mph hwy driving Videos to come

HighGuysLifts.com

Okay. Sounds like you don't need any help then. Good luck. Make sure you post some pics of your "logging road bomber"

Not available at stores. Part of the carb itself. it will run without it....just will use alot of gas cause the pressure builds in the bowl, and then excess fuel is sucked in the carb.

Not to mention no selection of truck wheels for 4x100 bolt pattern. Almost all the rims you'd find would be super shallow offset for FWD.