Gloyale

Headed to Brown's Camp today. Leaving out the door right now (7 am) I am almost 3 hours away from there though.....so anyone that wants to meet up there and wheel today be there by 10-11AM I'm in an 84 GL with a 6in lift I'll be with a buddy in a badass 2020 Rubi 4door, and another buddy in a stock ford ranger. We'll be on a Prime # CB channel (i.e. 7,13,17,23,29,31,37) Most likely ch. 31 or 17 #541-207-6544

I disagree. Almost all issues I see in subaru 5mt trans are from the large roller bearing at the rear of the upper/input shaft. To "rebuild" one of these I would plan on ordering that large bearing at the rear, the smaller front bearing for that upper shaft, and the output shaft seals for the rear and the 2 fronts. It's a good time to replace the shift selector rod seal too. Since 1st gear is haveing issues too, you may also want to replace the large bearing on the rear of the lower/pinion shaft too. Both shafts, the large bearing at the rear is what keeps the shafts from walking fore/aft in the case. When they walk, the shift forks push to slide a collar, and the shaft walks away from it, so you don't get the gear, or you barely get it without proper synchro action (rough shift)

W/ 2inch strut top lift AND stiffer/taller springs you are gonna want to drop the crossmember a bit. 1 or 2 inches. If not you will be hitting the axle shafts against the A-arm pivot points, and you'll eat axles and tires like crazy. Also, you will want to undo the clip on the small end of the inner CV boots. Slide the small end of the boot up the shaft a bit, and reclamp it. Running this "over stock" geometry will stretch and tear the CV boots shortly if you don't reposition the CV boots.

I am coming through portland area tommorow early AM.....headed out to wheel at browns camp. On my way home in the evening I could stop in if you will be available?

If the 5MT is a dual range it didn't come from an XT Does it have 23 spline stubs or 25? If it's 25, and dual range but not Fulltime, it's from an Early RX.....same ratios and low range as the later RX Fulltime box. If it's 23 spline, and dual range, it's just a regular GL box which is what you have the ratios listed for on the top line. If it's 25 spline, and NOT dual range (no rod up the side to the front) then it could be an XT turbo single range box. Turbo gear ratios like RX trans, but no low range.

That's what I'm always saying! Subies have superior clearance for ruts over a solid axle rig! Even when the solid axles have much larger tires.

It actually is normal for there to be coolant there. It looks a bit watery, not enough coolant in it but otherwise that IS normal. Many people fill that passage with JB weld to stop potential leaks from the carb base.

When you are really wheeling you want 2 hands on the wheel. Not sure when there would ever be advantage to left foot braking while wheeling w/a manual trans......just my thoughts. And as for pedals curving wrong direction? I mean.....wouldn't a bit of cutting welding fix that? probably easier than COMPLETELY designing a new system from scratch and scabbing in a lever and mounting it somewhere? It would have to be hydraulic, you'd never get enough leverage and pull to make the cable clutch work. So you'd be converting a D/R trans to hydraulic, which has been talked about in theory but nobody ahs done to my knowledge. THAT doesn't seem "worth doing" to me.

Go to the original EA engine connector in the engine bay. Tie the Purple(?)EJ wire into the Yellow/Green wire for Temp gauge. "T" in a resistor(270 ohm) and connect that to ground on the intake to correct the swing of the needle. You can also tie the Green(?) wire into the Yellow/black wire for Oil Pressure. It will work backwards though.......when all is good, the gauge will be below zero. If the OP drops off, the needle will peg to maxed out. (I may be confusing the EJ wire colors, but purple and green are the OP and TEMP wires from the EJ harness.....go by whatever we labeled them) You will also want to ground out all most of the Black/red, Black/yellow, etc....wires at the EA engine connector......the Digidash and trip computers will need those wires to be grounded.

I watched this. He was not torquing hard on it at all. it just snapped off. Just the head, the shoulder stayed in and the stub stayed in......But it will be a bitch to get out gotta wait till it snaps.

Gear ratios can be different too. EA81s and early EA82 are 3.7 later ea82 are 3.9

A really well built subaru can go places a locked solid axle rig can't. Mudruts, snow, tight trees.....there are lots of places the light, fully Independent suspension is better than heavy straight axle setup. T-case it and it can be done even slower and gently. Although I manage just fine without one still. Rockcrawling defintaly goes to the solid axle rigs.....maybe. Put those same Jeeps and Yota's on the same size tires we run.....and it's pathetic....they couldn't go anywhere. Wackin' axles against rocks I straddle. Jeeps gotta have 35's to go were I go with 29's And simply buying those 35's would cost more than my whole Subaru. I'll keep the roo.

That's where the interior airflow vents out. Sedans have them inside the rear door sill, wagons in the tailgate pillars, and Brats in the B-pillar.

Another old bed/futon frame conversion

Only on second gen Legacies and forresters. First gen Legacies, and Imps have an equallateral triangle pattern, and can be rotated and mounted any of the 3 positiions, but only one is correct.

Shouldn't be tooooooo hard to adapt a LHD pedal set to the RHD car

Donor car can be either manual or automatic. PM me for details about harness striping service. Send me an entire front harness, and ill send it back to you labeled and ready to install 3 wires to run, a few more to be complete all labeled.

Get it close when installing the springs. It can be fudged from there. meaning you can pry the knuckle mount around fairly easily to get it in position. More critical to get the end of the spring positioned in the hat correctly.

Backing plate on the oil pump. dig it out and tighten/reseal it now before it gets worse and flickers at idle or even a low cruise.

kyboutlet.com get outback struts for some extra height

+1

To clarify...... Keeping the motor and wring harness would be for an engine conversion in the future. The engine and and trans and almost everything is completely different. No bolt in spare parts.

the white parts need pushed down into the black part. White part needs to slide on the tube, further into the black part.

Not squeeze, push down

Press in on the collar. The GM or Ford tool for fuel lines works for this, or you can simply press them down with any tool that works.