Gloyale

I think your PCV hoses are hooked up incorrect. There should be a "T" in there to bring the hose over from the other side. Where is your IAC hose hooked up? Either of these being wrong could cause an unmetered air leak throwing off the MAF signal.

You are looking at the Idle up for the A/C. That should not have anything to do with the choke or fast idle except when the A/C is on. You need to take of the choke housing, may need to drill out rivets......But take it off, and inspect the bi metal coil in there for damage. Do this before starting engine, cold in the morning. The common one is for the hooked end to break off. You can bend a new hook, and then rotate the housing to correct the adjustment. You will need to grind or srcape off the small nub in the choke housing to be able to rotate it. You should also loosen the clamped on arm that goes to the fast idle cam, and let it slip until you get the spring clocked right. Then reset the fast idle cam arm. You may want to set it for halfway choked with these temps.....so it will be fully choked when it gets cold.

Either way you don't need to do anything but pop the pins out. Once the Trans is back and clear of the engine, you can shove it to one side a tad, remove an axle, then shove it the other way and pull the other one. No need to mess with anything at the outer end of the axle at all.

I dissent from any "consensus" claimed. Firstly, let me say that pulling the trans DOES NOT require pulling anything apart at the hubs. Simply pop the pins and slide the inner cups off after the trans has been dropped back slighty down and back, as it's coming out. The same can be easily done in revers for installation. There is no need to remove the axles, or diasassemble hubs, balljoints, struts...etc.. Altough, if you DID need to get more clearance, it would be easier to mark and reassemble the strut/knuckle bolts, and flop it out slightly. But again, you don't. the axles will come off once the trans moves back an inch or 2. Second the trans doesn't even have to come all the way out......just down and back 6~10 inches. A creeper and a tranny jack are cheaper than an engine hoist. Pulling the engine will give you access to alot of other things, like seals, waterpump, timng belt etc........but if you aren't in for doing EVEYTHING you could possibly do all at once, and want to just get your car running pulling the trans is cheaper/easier............to me. others will surely diasgree....and pulling the engine isn't a "bad" option at all.

Perhaps a power cleanup for a CB setup??? With the Yellow wire inside the cab being the 12v? and the coax being from the antenna preiously then hacked due to ignorance for whatever reason???

Check for voltage on at the coil to the Yellow/red wire and to the transistor on the yellow/red or yellow/blue wires. Double check ground eyelet on t he intake manifold.

Starter signal wire connects to the starter solenoid trigger wire. You can tap in at the starter with a doubler spade..... Or at the Ignition switch connector on pin 5 (the one by itself on the edge).... Or at the ECU connector, pin 24 *Black/white strip wire. *xt wiring doesn't always match the book.

EJ bolt is too long. Though you could cut one down. Think it's m14x1.25......not sure though. Definately needs to be very high grade whatever size it is.

strip the MPFI harness down to just bare engine wiring. piggyback in a'la EJ swap. no removing dash and entire harness. XT 4cyl engine harness is nearly entirely standalone, and easy to seperate from the other loom.....Turbo GL harness is pretty easy to strip out headlight, a/c, etc...... Time really better spent EJ swappign though. It would be good practice for an EJ swap and get the F.I. pump in place.

That's too bad the donor is gone. Coulda used the pump from it. Glad your getting it worked out. I want to get a 98 Forrester and put a 95 2.2 into it. Plug and Play! WOOT!

Pull the Y-pipe and inspect the inside of the exhaust ports for cracks. Look at were the wall or web extends across the middle of the port. Where that part attaches to the walls they develope cracks ussually to the outside end of this "bridge" that divides the 2 cyls. If there are no cracks, then just replace the radiator and maybe add a trans cooler and call it good.

You can leave the front portion in the trans suspended from the carrier bearing.

Actually they are on there the same way as the DGV's Riders front to back not shoulder to shoulder like you said they should be. The IDFs on the dual carb setup have their float bowls on the outside edge. not the rear. Subaru must really not know squat about webers......

Well, take a look at the plug, the 2 big wires are the pump power so find a way to jumper to those posts. I believe they are both along one edge of the connector. Like 1 and 4 of 6 here: 1 2 3 4 5 6 Maybe insulated aligator clips?

Dead pump or bad ground. Got a donor EJ car around? the gas tank wiring plugs are all teh same, and the big wires are the pump 12v pos and Ground. Cut out the pigtail and use it as a jumper to give the pump 12v to prove bad or good.

Check the hoses from the valve covers to the Intake tube. Check the hose at the back of the block up to a T and then into the PCV. Check the hose between that T and the intake tube. Check the Big hose for the IAC is connected to the intake tube. It's one of these.

87+ MPFI models DO ground the pump through the ECU. The relay is on the 12v side, and is triggered on by the ECU through pin 6. It does control the ground side of the relay. However, this is not the ground side of the pump. The ground wire for the pump itself is shielded, and runs all the way back to the ECU, pin 55. I have dealt with this on EJ swaps into MPFI cars where a ground wire must be provided to the Fuel pump. SPFI and carbed models ground the pump to the body. So that's not likely his problem. I suspect the relay. I'm in Corvallis barely 30 mins away and I've got a few pumps I could part wtih one.

Yes 2 front wheel bearings per wheel. 4 per car. All the same bearing.....6207-c3 or compatible. There are inner and outer wheel seals one of each per wheel. Rear bearings are one big bearing, and an inner and outer wheel seal per side.

I believe that wire originally spaded into another little stretch of black wire with a Eye on it that bolts down to the water pump tube holddown.

Yes I understand. Even the factory intake and carb base is a bit off. I was joking.........that it wouldn't work. Although I'd like to know if that is the synchronus or sequential DG on there? Or is that an IDF?

It's rotated 18.7 degrees off center Won't work. LOL

1 or 2 woudl both work, but really is it worth it wondering? Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 3.9 correct? Dime a Dozen. Or is it an LSD?

How did you test the Temp sensor? and did you test the correct one? The one the ECU uses for enrichment is the 2 wire one with the Green pigtail lead on it. Try disconnecting it the next time it won't start.

Take a friend and one in the car one outside use the wire. Like an old 2 man tree saw. If you break it or can't get it I've still got one here. Spend a few hours in the junkyard or a few hours in the car.......either way.

Sweet! Gotta put up some pics!