Gloyale

Ever get this fixed?

90-94 is the only bolt in option. Cat is one piece with the Manifold. 95 and later 2.5 could be made to work, but you'd need the catalytic and midpipe from that car too.

Fast idle cam is controled by the Choke. Perhaps Choke was adjusted? or the hooked end broke off the choke spring.

I find way more VW's with the setup same as we use. And as has been pointed out, sitting it with the seconday on one side, and the Primary on the other would put the main fuel sorce closer to one set of cylinders. This will work with the IDF series, but not with the DGEV. The IDF are synchronus barrels (parallel) not Sequential like the hitachis and the DGEV Ever check out were the bowl is on a Hitachi? On the side. Granted the float pivot is in the rear, not on the side like the DG.

C'mon man......get on it. We know you got the good shots.

USDM EJ18s have roller followers, AND hydraulic lash adjusters. It's the latter EJ22's that have roller followers, and solid screw type adjusters. Remember, the follower and the lash adjuster are at opposite ends of the rocker arms.

Dude. You aren't getting it. EVERY soob that has a Weber conversion runs in this orientation. It will not fit on the manifold rotated 90 degrees. The "kit" offered by Weber for these particular cars comes setup to run this way. This is how it is designed to work on this motor, and your insistence on telling us why years of experience, 100's of cars, and Weber themselves are WRONG,.........is a bit of a distraction from, and a disservice to the OP and his problem.

EA82 cars only have the one back by the pump. There is no underhood fuel filter on carbed EA82. the fitler is by the pump in front of rear tire, pass side, under car....mounted on a shelf. EA82 FI cars only have a high pressure filter under the hood, none by the pump. Sorry miles you are thinking of EA81 cars with 2 filters.

No that's the one for the EA81, hitachi model DCP-306 you need the one for ea82 Hitachi model DCZ328. This onehttp://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WLK0/151051/02447.oap?year=1987&make=Subaru&model=GL&vi=5012099&ck=Search_carb_02447_5012099_-1&keyword=carb&pt=02447&ppt=C0359

Alternator wires do not run through that connector. They go directly back to thefusible links and fuse box.

I've got a good rear glass hear. Pulled it and saved it cause I knew somebody would need it. Pulled from an 88 XT turbo. PM me for price an delivery options.

Heads don't ussually crack. Little wiff of oil from under the bolts is common/normal. If the bottom end is good, and it hasn't been overheated badly then just get the heads surfaced and put new gaskets in. If there is reason to believe its been overheated severly, then ditch it and go 2.2

Whatever your motivations, doesn't matter. Race car or not, anyway you look at it, these engines don't have alot more power left in them to tap. And what is available isn't going to be had from "ditching that power robbing emmissions stuff" The california model cars have very little differenrence from the 49 state versions. Losing the rear cat could help a tad.......running premium gas can help too. As for losing economy going up hills? If you try to power up them at full speed fast as you can go, then yes...... Get off the gas, grab a lower gear, and let the RPMs do the work while holding a light throttle opening.......you will use less gas. But which are you after? Less gas? more power? those are ussually opposing goals.

he stopped workin on it 3 years ago. Not sure what state it's currently in.

You'd just need to put a EA trans in too. Or like Ivan said EJ AWD trans guts into an EA case. Install the 25 spline stubs too so stock IMP axles will work. EA clutch. I still think an Imp with an EJ18 would be better, but the EA81 is super simple to work on.

California car has an Exhaust gas temp sensor and a slightly different ECU. Swap to a non Cali ECU, and cut the sensor lead if you like.......but you won't notice any difference. This is an economy car........not a race car.

You could run a used EJ22 for less than the cost of a full rebuild on the EA82. Just saying, it's not as hard as it's made out to be. And either an EJ18 or an EJ22 would be WAAAAY better of an engine. with that said, If you want to rebuild the Ea82, do it. They are smooth revving gas sippin little motors when running good.

95-99 Automatic Legacies had 4.11 If it doesn't say LSD or VLSD on it, it most likely is not a Limited Slip. Most New gen VLSDs don't have a sticker, but they would have the "Female" axle recievers, not stubs. Stubs built into the axle. So if you've got your stock cups, and no sticker, you likely have no LSD If the sticker just says 4.11, its probably a first Gen legacy diff (either90-94 manual or 90,91 Auto).....which have the same type stub setup as the old gen stuff so they are a direct bolt in.

Starter/flywheel issues should not cause it to just stall and die. And yes, you should be able to push start it. Did you pull ALL the timing covers and verify the timing marks? The belt could have slipped a few teeth but still be tight.

Won't work. He's got it on right....that;s not the issue. I think you need a fuel return.....I'll bet the needle can't hold back the pressure of the fuel pushing in. You could add a "T", right before the carb, with a small line coming out to return to tank.....like the latter factory hitachi setups. Also, the Fuel pump has nothing to do with the Alternator. the fuel pump relay powers the pump when it has a pulse from the negative side of the coil. That's why it's sometimes shown as "rev sensor" on the wiring diagrahms.....because it senses the engine has "revolutions" when running/sparking so it keeps fuel going. Engine stops, no more spark from disty = fuel pump off.

Teh electrical is probably still working. The switch activates the solenoids. The light in the dash won't come on until the trans actually engages 4wd. It's more likely a vacuum issue. Check that the line supplying vacuum to the solenoids is connencted. Solenoids are on the drivers side strut tower, fed vacuum from the resevior on the other side strut tower.

The pipe that is bolted into the Intake (heater supply) really cannot be removed. As you mentioned, it has a bolt, but the pipe is press fit too, so exctracting it would be very hard. Get a new intake, or have the hole welded if you think there is enough meat still. The other one from the Heater back to the Waterpump, can be replaced easily. Although, I would say having the intake off would be much easier.

What's wrong with the walker kits? That;s what I always use. All you really need from it are the little airhorn O-rings, The top gasket, and the Accelerator pump. Maybe the needle and seat too. Easy to cleanout and rebuild in the car, just the top needs to come off.

Keep us posted. This was a fun thread. Discovered something new I didn't know still, after 15years+ of working on old gen subarus.

I recomend undoing the small clip, on the inner CV joint......then slide the small end of the boot up the shaft, and reclamp. This will keep the inner boot from stretching all the time and ripping. I do this any time I install an "Greater than stock angle" lift kit.