Gloyale

Ever wonder what the plaque that says "this vehicle equipped for the installation of optional A/C" means? Driving yourself crazy looking for why your fan has no power and can't find the relay? Well here's part of it. First off, unless you have "Subaru" A/C.....you don't have a relay. Later EA81 Blower circuits are setup with a connector, that provides for the Non-a/c fan circuit, to be bypassed......and run through a new relay.......bringing power for the blower fan through a single 20 amp glass fuse taped up in the harness. I believe this leaves the original blower circuit extra electrical capacity to power the compresor clutch, fan relays and pressure switches,etc.... Here is a pic of the jumper that is in the setup from the factory on non-a/c cars. This connector is up under the dash, right below the column, coming out of the big bundle on it's own 20" or so pigtail. The glass fuse is wrapped up just a bit closer to the fuse box. And Here is what the circuit looks like after Dealer installed Genuine subaru A/C setups And here's the thread that made me tear apart 2 dashes trying to find this sucker cause it was driving me nuts.......Never had to look for an EA81 blower relay before http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/140151-brat-blower-motor-relayproblem-solved/

Check your torque converter bolts quick Sometimes when installing the TC bolts, the TC will be slid a bit too far into the trans. This hangs up the teeth on the starter gear and is hard to spin to get around to all the bolts. Snuggin them pulls it up tight, away from teh starter teeth I'd at least check them to make sure they aren't loose and the TC walked closer to the starter.

Spider intake. didn't think of that til now.

The adjustables or "universals" you call them were stock for 85,86 cars, and discontinued after that. And again, you are wrong man. I'm sorry i know you are a super knowledable subie guy and respected member, but I want to be clear...the spring perch is taller on a 2wd. Further UP the strut, holding the car up higher off the suspension. SPEAKING STRICTLY ABOUT THE REAR If you put 2wd struts on a 4wd it will lift it. If you put 4wd struts on a 2wd it will lower it. Front struts are opposite......4wd front struts are taller.

The relay for the Hellas is tied into the headlights? correct? so that they go out when the HI beams are on? correct. I believe the problem lies there. What circuit is the coil of the relay tapped into (85,86 terminals) And where is the 30 terminal supplied power from? I guess I need to undertand how you've got the relay trigged. Also, how are you determining your headlight relays to be fine?

89 FSM won't help with wiring for the 86s'

The definative answer is in the FSM, and it's been documented here before. You can see the difference a tthe KYBoutlet.com here's the pagehttp://www.justsuspension.com/kyb?year=22&make=1504&model=10299&__utma=241047065.1589668293.1374249824.1374249824.1376272759.2&__utmb=241047065.2.10.1376272759&__utmc=241047065&__utmx=-&__utmz=241047065.1374249824.1.1.utmgclid=CPjDrcP3u7gCFSNyQgodjQIAoQ|utmccn=%28not%20set%29|utmcmd=%28not%20set%29&__utmv=-&__utmk=156054968 You can see the 2wd rear, 3410216(wagon) 341063(sedan) ones are longer from bottom of strut to spring seat. Of these 2, the Sedan ones to be a bit longer above the perch, and overall, yeilding the most travel by 1/2" or so. The 4wd ones (341063), are shorter in these dimensions.

That's not exactly right either. The spring perch on the strut is higher on the body of the strut in the 2wd ones. The 2wd strut mounts lower on the Trailing arm.....right behind the spindle. The 4wd strut mount is higher, and the axle goes underneath the mount. There is a longer distance between the shockmount on the arm on 2wd ones vs. 4wd The 4wd shock is shorter because it's stuffed into a shorter space, above the axle.

I like 2" strut top with a 1 1/4 drop on the crossmember and trans support.......Reqiures longer coupler......one from Legacy Outback. In fact you can get the crossmember spacers and the trans spacers too. The trans spacers are painted to the crossmember, but will come off with a bit of persuasion. Also with a 2" lift either way you are running your angles steeper......so take clip the inner CV joint, small clip....and slide it up the shaft past the padding, and reclamp it. This will help keep it from tearing since it will be running at a steeper angle all the time now.

If you've got heavier springs and wider tires I would say take it off. I have removed them from all my offroad subies. It'll roll a bit more cornering on the tarmac, but it will actually do better at speed on rough roads because the suspension can actually act independently.

Make sure you get the front crossmember to use the turbo motor if your gonna do it. Get the Fuel tank, pump, all the HP lines between the hardline you can get. Disc brakes too. I say screw the full on harness swap.....just strip down the MPFI harness and piggyback it a'la EJ swap. Good practice for the EJ swap later when the EA82t craps out. I can provide you with FSM pinouts and diagrahms for the EA82t

Here it is in my Brat Here in my 84 Wagon And here's what it would look like with the Subaru dealer installed setup. W/relay

Found it. There is no relay. There is a jumper setup at the relay connector. I guess when you add A/C, you take over the stock blower circuit, and reroute it through the relay (supplied 12v+ by the glass fuse). But in the stock form, with no A/C there is just a jumper from the Blue/black wire to the Green/white wire in the relay bundle. The FSM always shows the full A/C setup....I've not found any references to the jumper setup. Probably mentioned in the install literature for the A/C system.....which I don't have those books. Anyhow....I'm uploading the pics now. the pics of the setup in both my 84 wagon, and in my 86 Brat....both with no A/C. You're aftermarket a/C setup may not have removed the jumper and replaced with a relay this way. Maybe your jumper is disconnected. Or if there is another issue on the Blue/black supply circuit.........just pop a relay in and use the glass fuse circuit.

Let's start over. Do you have 12v on the GW wire at the fan with key on? Yes---it's not the relay anyhow. problem would be on the ground side....check the switches and resistor pack. No-----Provide 12v to the GW wire at the fan. Now turn on the blower with the switch, does it work? if yes the Switch and resistor pack are good. You could then simply add a relay to provide power the GW wire. Or find the relay.....it's definately in the instrument panel wireing....shown in the FSM with 4 wires, square connector, most likely a round relay, but definately a square connector.

I just checked my 86 Brat and my 84 wagon and neither has ANY relays in that location but both have working fans.

2.2 for sure. Trans? Either full AWD EJ box (good for DD, no burnouts in rain. but can leave you stuck with one wheel in deep snow) OR PT4wd single range guts and transfer, stuffed into EJ front case halves w/EJ flywheel...no adapter (true 4wd great in snow!, FWD burnouts in the rain ) OR FT4wd w/diff lock guts and transfer into EJ front case halves w/EJ flywheel...no adapter. (Best of both worlds)

That's not the blower relay. It just isn't. It can't be? Brat's without A/C don't even have those relays there. And honestly, those don't look like Factory FHI relays...more like an aftermarket or at least a Dealer installed A/C kit. Looking closely at the pic I can see A/C high side pline is wrong type to be factory either. Those relays are part of the A/C kit. Now those relays are tied to the blower circuit, so perhaps a backfeed provided power.

Not personal in the least. I don't even know you. My response refers strictly to the topic of this thread and the ideas discussed......not about you.

I can totally understand wanting to go with what you got. The swap is possible, but I believe there are issues with the harness that won't plug and play. You will basically have to swap the entire harness in the whole car. I'd say don't bother. The work would be much better spent on an EJ swap. The full harness swap on the front end would be harder than just piggybacking in the EJ harness. Swap the fuel system, and the disc brakes and any interior bits you want, and then junk the GL-10. Use the scrap money towards buying an EJ donor car.

I had one in Wisconsin that was WAAAAAY worse than that. Fortunately there are no inspections for rot there. You will need to find someone good with a grinder and a MIG welder.

That looks like whoever installed the alternator over tightened the nut onto the post. This probably cracked the plastic insulation that is around the post allowing it to arc to ground and melt. The onl;y other way can see it melting like that would be if you were running a super high power Amplifier, or some other high Amperage load.

You just need to have a matched set up front. The rears can be different just do not use the 4wd on pavement.

Ever actually priced new calipers for an older subie? And c'mon, replace a good working genuine Japanese part for some chinese knockoff.....just because you don't want to deal with using the correct tool?...........no thanks Just do the job correctly....like apparently the OP of this thread did.

Save your $15 bucks and go to the wrecking yard and pull a few rectangular relays from under the hood of a Legacy or Impreza. You can get a handful of them for $5 probably.

Links?