Gloyale

The charcoal canister will see raw fuel sometimes in normal setup. Just not supposed to be much, and it will ussually only happen on a hot day with a full tank. Will only happen if the tank is FULL up to the filler neck. Gasoline is stored in tanks in the ground.....it is much cooler underground than outside in the sun on a hot day. When you pump it into your tank it expands.

There were no EA82s in 83-84. Not outside of the JDM market. And all EA82 use the same valves Valve opening is determined by Cam lobes.....regargdless of the valve length....the valve can be 20 feet long, if the cam only lifts it a half inch, that's all it's gonna lift. Not sure what you are reading, but it's not correct. And saying an EJ is a stroked EA is like saying an orange is an apple with more citric acid and a thick skin.

Cleaning out and rebuilding hte hitachi yourself cost about 30 bucks. Can't swap a weber for that. And webers need constant retuning for summer/winter~high alt/sea level etc.... Weber swaps on these cars are NOT all that cool if you ask me. The hitachis are wonderful carbs when they aren't clogged up with 30 years of junk.

What do you need to know? It gets 12v from Key. Blue? Maybe Blue/Black? It gets Tach signal on yellow wire It gets ground by black wire Sends out 12v to pump and to electric choke on Blue/white wire? Not sure if I'm correct on the colors But basically you get the idea. If it isn't putting out power to the pump during cranking, make sure it's getting tach signal and 12v in from key.

First off, Subarus do not have a "transfer case". And if they are talking about the transmisson, which incorporates the AWD unit.......you wouldn't nessecarilly suspect any troubles form it to make a rattle under the hood........maybe a cracked flexplate, maybe..... At any rate. I would be skeptical of this diagnosis. Definately take it to a independant subaru specialist.

The axle is supposed to be a pressfit into the bearings. You are supposed to either use a slide hammer attached to the end of the axle, or you can use a large washer, and the claws of 2 claw hammers to pry the axle through. Also, the old bearing inner races can be used as spacers with the axle nut to pull them through. Any way you do it, they are supposed to pull through tight, not just slip in and out.........so I hope your axles stay tight in the hubs and bearings.

That sounds about right for torque. Pretty much as tight as you can get'em with one hand with a 12mm box end wrech.

No....not bolt on. But the spaceing of the bolts at each rail is the same L series to EJ, so you can use the Fuji factory spacers from an outback on the L series crossmember. Applies to EA82 only, EA81 doesn't fit.

It expands almost 1.5% for every 10 degrees temp rise You probably don't drive with a full tank much. Fill up to the top on a HOT day and it WILL spew liquid. But I am probably wrong, and FUJI and all other car makers put the evap canisters in there for no reason at all, to increase production cost, and we are all stupid for having them in our cars and should all rip them out willy nilly because we don't know what they do.

This is incorrect. 2wd struts are LONGER. The mount on the trailing arm is lower on 2wds. Installing 4wd struts on a 2wd will lower the car. There is no difference in the upper mounting between sedans/wagons. There are a few variations in excact ride height between sedan/wagons but all 4wd shocks should be within about 3/4" of the same. Again, the 2wd ones a 2" longer.

I personally love EA82's. In stock cars, for daily driving, not mudding.....driving fairly slow. Experimentally building a one off, side draft supercharged EA82 could be fun..(more likely a total PITA) I can tell you for sure it won't hold up long at all in a "wheeler". You'd haver spent a ton of money, and even more time tracking down parts and fabricating brackets and flanges and piping. Then tuning. And then your gonna take that several THOUSANDS of $$$$ and blow it up in a mudhole. Seriuously, if you like the EA82 and want to do something useful with it, just rebuild it stock. There are much better options for increasing power and reliablilty in your subaru.

Subaru's do not use a valve on the heater core to limit flow. Not since the end of the EA81 line. The heater cores are full flow, and provide the bypass for warm up. One hose being cold while one is hot is not normal.

Hmmm..... I remember I had to supply a ground to the pins at the original engine connector, to the pins that were originally grounded to the intake. Can't remember exactly why.....? that was on an SPFI car. Analog dash. Oh....I think it was to provide a ground to the dash for a VSS pulse to be generated? IDK, there was something that needed to stay grounded that originally grounded thorugh the ECU harness to the engine.

Group N mounts have the little extra locating knob, as do some factory EJ mounts. These nubs either need to be ground off, or the holes lengthed. Easy to do with a dremel.

That Imp would have had a MAF in addition to the MAP. Just ship the harness to me. $180 and I'll send it back labeled, and ready to install 3 wires to run.

If it had a 4eat in 89, it was likely a turbo car to start. Someone may have dropped in a Carbed engine.....easiest way to swap out the turbo engine....seen it several times. Although, if it still has the 4eat.....It will not run or shift well without a TPS input from the MPFI computer.

Good idea to consider....but I don't believe chain use is common in New York. They just salt the crap out of the roads. As for "traction devices" on sand.......worthless. Chains, Cables, and even mud tires will just digg you in, and get you stuck the first time you hit the skinny pedal. You can run completely bald tires in sand as long as you air down to around 10-14 PSI. Airing down is the key. So if you are going to the beach, make sure you've got a little compressor with you to air back up to at least 20 before driving on pavement.

If you want a reliable engine, that is OE to the car rebuild the EA82 If you want any kind of performance upgrade.....EJ it. Serioously. Money and time much better spent than trying to polish and port a turd.

When your tank vapor locks because you don't have a vent..... Or the vent line spews liquid gas on a hot day from expansion...... You will understand why it was there, and why you should leave it there.

Do a 2", but then install an Outback crossmember spacer and MT trans spacers to drop the suspension 1-1/4" This will keep your axle angles good. If you go straight 2", no drop on the crossmember, you will be running the axles at an extreme angle. If you do this, you will want to unclip the small end of the inner CV boots, and slide them further up towards the joint. Otherwise boots will rip from being stretched all the time.

You must have done something with the linkage to put the 5spd into an ea81.

The trailing arm mount from an outback will be needed to get full travel out of the suspension. But you should be able to get the struts installed without swapping that mount. Just good to get for the future. No need to disconnect the axle from the hub, but you could pop the pin from the inner end to prevent overextending the inner joint. I would swap your tophats and springs from your car and put them onto the Outback struts. Drilling holes sounds easier than it is. The outback hole triangle is not simply bigger, it's offest to the outside. It's really hard to do this right and end up with the strut actually centered in the hole, which will affect camber if not right. And when you done, you've got a weekened area back there with less metal around the attachmenrt points. Buy, borrow or rent a set of spring compressors and it's an easy job less than an hour.

Yeah, I'll bet the screws on the oil pump are loose on the engine that blew. I just pulled an EJ18 from my wheeler, Oil pressure was low at idle and even low at times when cruising at low RPMs Pulled the oil pump and checked the screws.......2 of them where barely tight....the other 3 had backed out several threads......the backing plate could be flexed away from the body........YIKES. Hopefully that engine is still good. No signs of trouble but I caught it JUST in time.

Disconnect the cruise computer and it may solve the VSS issue. I believe presslab ran into an issue like this. Seach his threads for more info.

Yeah the early Manual, dual range 4wd cars (ea81 cars, 80-84) had the 4wd lever pivot point mounted solid to the body. When the trans mounts get bad, and the trans moves around it chnages the relative location to the lever.........causing it to try to engage 4wd. Later models (85-89) with Dual range have the 4wd shifter mounted to the shifter stay, and isolated by a rubber bushing....so the trans can move around, and the lever stays relative with it. The 4wd light and the lever jumping around is definately your trans mounts.