Gloyale

Are you by chance using a pushbutton for Starter? If you are, and you did not reconnect the original starter wire to the new one, then the computer is not seeing voltage during cranking.

These cars are nothing like a Jeep. Not trying to be rude....just to the point.....anyhow. Your front axle is still spinning inside the hub. You need to replace the Hub, the Wheel bearings, the Cone washer, and most likely the Axle too. Verify by having a friend try to drive forward in 2wd, while watching the axle nut on the pass side. It will spin and the car goes nowhere. This is what the problem has been all along, and still is the problem. The nut just hadn't fully fallen off yet when it first was making noises. It's not your clutch or any of the gears in the trans, or else 4wd woudln't work. As for the 4wd light, and the lever jumping......I would inspect the Trans mounts, and the shifter mounting point above the driveshaft. When you are under decel load the 4wd shifter is lightly pushing towards 4wd.....and in the old cases, crud builds up and makes it so the plunger for the switch gets pushed a bit early. You may have actually gotten it to engage the disengage 4wd quickly causeing the odd clunks when backing out of a spot.....that could have all been axle crunch too. I believe your trans mounts are broken, and under a reverse load (decel or in reverse) the tail of the trans tries to lift up. This is from the rotational force of the front axles. The shifter stopped jumping so much when you transfered to 4wd, because the drive is from rear axles.

Clogged jets and emulsions. Remove the top of the carb, and the plugs on the bowl. Drain it, unscrew and blow out the emulsion tubes. reassemble.

Gurgling in the dash is the heater core. Probably a bit clogged but still flowing. You may or may not have air in there......I'd say it's not related to your idle/running issues. Running issues could be crap in the carb bowl pluggin the emulsion tubes. Although poping and backfiring would indicate timing too far advanced.

Save yourself some trouble. Pull the exhaust pipe off the heads.....look into the exhaust passages and inspect the area at each end of the "wall" that divides the 2 exhaust chambers. There will be a crack there, most likely on the "inner" side, closest to the block. Most likely on the passenger side too but common to happen to both. If it's driving well, not overheating when full of coolant.......Drive it gently, keep it full of coolant, and enjoy it while it lasts. If you start trying to "fix" it.......your gonna end up swapping motors.......and eventually the on;y fix is to EJ it. You'll never be happier with your car than with an EJ22.

I've been thinking of adding a longer adjusting bolt.

The code means "continuisly in the "on" or "off" positions. If you are cranking for many seconds, and the Ig. is sparking, the computer goes ...."wait.....I'm making spark and should be running, but the starter switch is still cranking" Throws code for starter switch. Old electronics have dumb logic.

You are incorrect. It is FWD. That's why a F$%&ed up axle issue in the front is making you not able to use FWD. Think about it. The rear is the undamaged part and when you engage the rear it works.

Those all happen during a no start condition. The Crank and Cam sensor are really the same thing an ea82....part of the distributor. Check your injectors for 12v with key on. And check that a test light hooked to it pulses during cranking. Seriously. The computer is not going to tell you wahts wrong you have to find it.

Check power 12v to Injectors with Key on/eng off. Pulsing while cranking.

Disconnect the intake tube from the MAF to do this. DO NOT spray through the MAF, DO NOT leave it hooked up and spray though a PCV line. Disconnect it from the MAF and shoot it straight down the tube. A backfire can destroy the MAF if you leave it connected.

Get the 99 impreza D/R box. Swap the EA82 diff, Shafts, and possibly the D/R shift fork and gear shifter forks, although they may be the same. Now that I think about it more, you will not need to modify ring gear or collar.....just use all the EA stuff toghether should be fine. I had issues trying to fit 4.11 AWD gearset in combo with the 1:59 L hi/lo upper shaft. We didn't get any EJ D/R's here in the US

I would check for other issues.....the code 12 is ussually a "ghost code" that will show always with engine cranking but not starting. Code 11 and 13 are common too. Check your distributor rotor for being tight, and that it spins when engine cranked over (verify timing belt). Then check for fuel pressure to the rail, and pulse of the injectors.

Well, it shouldn't be in there. Either someone installed it there....not sure where youd run the line???? Or you found the pickup screen and tapped on that. The pump in the old ones are mounted external, under the car in front of the rear passenger side wheel. Carbed cars espescially don't need a pump mounted tank. Newer FI cars use in tank pumps alot, All the newer Subies do.....Sure you don't have a Legacy????

MAn you gotta tell me when you are goin on these trips! I need some better wheeling/campin spots to take the family to.

They must have squished quite a bit. Eventually they will split and break off and get sucked into the oil supply to the Cams. I would get them outta there before it wrecks your cam towers.

Do not drive it. The wheel is likely to fall off. I am guessing thats your front wheel? right now the Brake rotor is the only thing holding it on. If it were a back wheel w/drum brakes it would have already fallen off. You're car is FWD until you engage 4wd then the rear axle gets power. You ave no FWD because that stripped out hub is spinning free. When you engage 4wd you get rear wheel power. You need to at least get an axle nut on there before attempting to drive anywhere.

Dual range or single range? You need the matching case type to make this work. If your L series box is single range, and the EJ20 box is as well then it's as easy as swapping out the guts and reassembling......nothing else required. D/R will reuire both D/R boxes....And may require modification to the ring gear to clear the larger 1:59 reduction low range gears (it's actually the shifting collar that hits the ring gear.......more a problem with the 4.11 gearset. not sure what your EJ20 box is. Although I'm assuming you want to keep the 4wd not AWD so the EJ gearset will not be used.

xt6 had a 3.9 LSD optional. Remember people, not all turbo cars had LSD diffs......actually most didn't.....the LSD had to be ordered.

they are all wired for electric fan. Models without A/C have ONLY the one electric fan, controlled by the thermoswitch in the radiator. The "auxillary" fan that is added to A/C models is the clutch fan driven by the water pump belt. The clutch fan can be added to any EA82, but it works alot better with the shroud. Another good option is to get a generic 10" electric fan. About 20~35 bucks from ebay or summit racing.

Pointless unless you are turbocharging the EJ25 and retuning it.

Bubbles mean too little refridgerant, not too little pressure. It's important to remember that these are 2 entirely different things. I believe what is happening is you did not evacuate the system first after replacing o-rings, so you are trying to push refrigerant into a system that already has air and moisture in it. You're compressor is pumping and making pressure, but you aren't getting the condesation/evaporation action to the degree needed because your system has nitrogen,CO2, and watervapor in it. The refill cans you buy at parts stores should only be used on a closed system that has never been depressurized, or you need to take it to a place that can vac out all the air before trying to fill it.

I disagree. Certainly you could just throw a dampner on, tighten the crap out of it, and call it good.....but it won't be good, The key really should be replaced.....it locates the crank pulley for timing. Without a key in there, it's almost garaunteed to come loose at SOME point again. the crank pulley may just slide off, or it may need to have the 2 holes tapped for a bolt, then you can user a steering wheel type puller to exctract it.

Nuetral switch can be wired from the trans into the original Auto trans connector for the indicator switch. Clutch switch isn't needed unless you want the lockout feature to be operational. You will need to use the Manaul starter.

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