Gloyale

98 w/ Dohc 2.5 no 99+ w/ sohc 2.5 yes.

Oxy sensor reading 2-5 volts? Sounds like Its got a short from the heating cicuit to the signal circuit. Good readings should fluctuate from around .05 to .80 volts.

You are gonna need to swap injector connectors anyhow. They look the same, but the notches don't match up phase 2 vs. phase 1

To remove the old broken chunks without making a further mess, tape a garbage bag around the inside window frame. Then close all the other windows all the way except one window leave cracked a tiny bit. Then turn the key on, blower fan on. This will make the plastic "billow" outward, and keep all the dusty broken bit out of the interior.

Unscrew the pipe were it feeds into the ASV, insert a quarter int he opening, tighten the pipe back off. Ditch all the plastic silencers. Done

Walbro 255 FTW A single one will be fine. Keep a used loyale pump wrapped in a bag in the trunk if you are really worried.

All EJ oilpans will interchange. However, around 2004-5 they changed to a weird design with a "cutout" on the passenger side. a 99 pan should work just fine.

"passive" restraint (meaning you driver does nothing but still has some protection) of some sort was required. Some cars got airbags, some got Auto belts.....but after 91 all passenger car had to have at least one of the 2 types of "passive" restraints for front passengers. Subaru didn't want to bother putting airbags int eh loyale, and already had the auto belt system designed. Legacies got auto belts only in 90,91....then Auto belts and a drivers airbag in 92-94. With the intro of dual airbags in 95, the auto seatbelts were dropped in the legacy. Most other car makers of the time shifted in a similar manner....with old models fitted with auto belts, and new designs recieving the airbags.

You mean the pressure relief? It's just a plunger and spring....no need to replace just clean and reisntall. Some people like to stretch the spring to give more pressure. Not sure if that's good advice.

Do not try to pry off the whole bezel around the dash/radio console. Even though that would seem to be the way, don't do it. Above the radio.....in the middle of the trip computer if it has one (probably if turbo) THere is a blank cover, pry it out, and remove the screw under it. That will allow the trip computer to come out. Then you can access the screws that hold the bracket for the stereo and pull it out. As mentioned, like any older subaru the front/rear speakers share a common ground. Easiest way around this is to run new wires to the front speakers, and then use the existing speaker wire for just the rears.

Wow....I feel old. As for power options? I think they were just using up parts they had in stock....like I said, they really didn't care about selling many loyales.......espescially by 93 with the Impreza introduction.

Leakdown doesn't need to be done at TDC.....just valves closed. Infact, if an engine has good compression, putting air to it will force the piston down to the bottom. Wanna really test?....install the leakdown tester with a cylinder bottomed out, then turn the crank with a wrench fairly quickly.......It should try to "bounce" back.

The tool for pulling the middle 8 wristpins must be crazy long....Pretty cool looking though

Most Loyales were pretty sparse...espescially 90 base models .they were trying to move people into the Legacy. However all teh manuals had PS, and a hillholder. A/C probably installed by the dealer as most all but the GL-10's were. Auto seatbelts were optional in 88,89....but then dropped in the 90 Loyale as confirmed by the 90 FSM....which has no listing for any auto seatbelt stuff. I had to go back to an 89 FSM to find info to repair my girlfriend's 91 Loyale.......which DID have auto belts because they were required by law at that point.

Awesome! I found a pile of EA82 engines, struts and trannies (3at ) dumped in the woods. to make it even craizier It was while on the way to WCCS 10 in Astoria. ha. Yeah, as for the trannies....there really isn't any difference between the old part time boxes and the first gen AWD boxes up to ~98. They are 99% identical inside....same bearings, shaft diameters etc..... I'm guessing an AWD box with a welded center diff would be better just for the EJ clutch.

Seems like a very low # on the ring gear. But I suppose it could be. I have alot of old Fuji literautre and NEVER seen a listing of 3.889. But I guess I can't say for sure it doesn't exist. Subaru didn't just round up. All 3.9 ratio diffs I've taken apart, and all in the literature, are a 39/10 ring pinion count......exactly 3.9

Could be loose flexplate bolt or warped/cracked flexplate knocking agaisnt inner bellhousing. Pull the rubber inspection plug and rotate the enigne by hand and observe the bolt heads for signs of contact.

Depends on how much you lap. I would not think it would affect vavle clearance very much. It will make it tighter if anything.

No it's .25MM not .025 in. .25mm = about .010 in.

I'm not sure here. There sare definately people who have run turbos with NA ECU's. Pretty sure Ivan has talked about doing that. The Crank and Cam sensor wires are reversed on Turbo/ Non-turbo ECU but otherwise all pins are the same. OCuld be useful for a tourbleshooting/temp solution until the Turbo ECU can be sroted out.

Intake

No the CEL should come on with Key on/Eng. off as a "proof" it's working. Also shoudl come on and blink with the Green check connectors. I supposed plugging them in and seeing if it works then,

You can disable the ABS by simply pullign teh fuse for it. If you want to eliminate it altoghtether, I'd get the whole engine bay brake line assembly from a non abs 90-94 car. Your existing master will work with the hillholder just route the lines. Biggest hillholder issue is that there is not a place to hook the cable on the hydraulic clutch forks

Make sure you have ground at pins A11 and A22 at the ECU. And of course to the D15 pin shown in the above diagrahm. Missing ground on that circuit could make it impossible for ECU to make the pulse. You'll figure it out I'm sure. Your "halfway" there lol

Bulbs burn out. It takes very tiny little ones I haven't found a source for yet. The units are pretty easy to take apart to get to the bulbs, it's just finding tiny bulbs is tough....I got a few from radio shack that were close, but the wires wer to brittle to install into the retainers. They just broke at the base of the glass Check out Loyale 2.7 Turbos (Jeszek) thread about LEDS in the dash. Some of the LEDs preinstalled in the holders look like they would work....I just don't know where to order them here in the states. Jeszek, you got a source for us?