Gloyale

Hmm......That sticker doesn't say 3.889. Why does he think that's the ratio. I'm pretty sure it's just regular ole 3.9 I can't even figure out what combo of # teeth R+P would make 3.889? Ring gears range from 37 teeth to 42 pinions range from 9-11 No combination of these would yeild 3.889 A 17 tooth pinion with a 66 tooth ring would be almost 3.889....but not quite even..3.882...and there is no way you can fit a 17/66 tooth ring & pinion into a r160 Anybody got any documentaion or explanation?

I think he needs from 90-94 so it has the male stubs. 95+ use the female type where the axle ends stick into the diff.

Play in the upper shaft bearing. Sorry to say it'll on;y get worse. If you open it up now and replace the bearing it can be saved.

Looks like an ugly but fairly legit job of Deleting the ASV, anti backfire, and EGR systems. you could leave it all like that. Personally I would restore the EGR operation. Pretty easy, just need to find the pipe that goes from the head (top of passenger side head, tube with bolt rammed into it) to the intake near the EGR. But the ASV and Anti-Backfire systems are junk and should be left off.

If you got bearings for a phase I EJ25 they will have smaller Con rod bearings.

Yup sounds like it. That would explain the hot coil and blown fuses Disconnect the, Ignitor and the coil plug. Then test the signal wire (Blue one I believe) for 1+2 for continuity end to end from the ignitor to the coil, and then for continuity to ground, and finally for any continuity to any other wires. If that checks out (~0 ohms end to end, Infintie resitance to ground or any other wires) then check the circuit from the ECU to the Ignitor. That would be the Green/white wire from pin 9 at the ECU to pin 2 of the ignitor plug. Just to clarify, do you still have the SMJ or did you cut/splice it out?

It's gonna do that every time unless you get a new keyfob adn synch it to the system. Once you've got a keyfob, you can disable that part of the system and make it "remote lock/unlock" on;y no alarm. Forget the excact detail but it's some sequence of holding reset button and keyfob buttons at tsame time. Reset buttons are sometimes mounted near the hood release, others are still taped to the alarm harness and you gotta dig them out. I just went through all this with my mothers LL bean outback when her keyfobs both stopped working.

96 Outback MT computer would be for a 2.2 Or you could likely use a regular Legacy computer for a 2.2 No real reason for it to NEED to be changed other than the stupid rule about check engine lights. I'm assuming that you have the CEL for EGR and that's why it's failing? Otherwise, if you have an EGR equipped 2.2 there is no reason to change it. No CEL = no reason to change.

Knuckle isn't aluminum. If it was aluminum, it wouldn't be covered in red rust. I wouldn't reinstall that knuckle.....get another

90-94 manual = 4.11 90-91 Auto = 4.11 92-94 auto = 3.9

Also can be intake gaskets or Carb base gaskets but also a good possibility it's headgaskets too. EA81 headgaskets are Super easy....te hardest part is getting the intake off and out of the way....the heads are easy.

Sorry, no contempt meant. I speak in broken sentences, and I type even worse. I love this forum and all the users. I don't always agree, but inteligent discussion involves dissenting opinions......I have utmost respect for ALL the board members...7334 and newb alike. I know it wasn't your original mistake......and if you got most of the mixed stuff out it'll be most likely fine.......I was just stating ideal world scenario. Lot's of grey area and it'll be mostly fine just watch for clogged heater core.

BOSS audio stuff is like harbor freight tools. Might work but definately cheap cheap cheap quality.

Running 65/35 is fine for cooling still and if I get a leak or boil over or for any reason have to add, I can add water to a certain point without risking boiling. Just my way of doing things.

Hmm...... 1988 models are great in my opinion. It's the 87's that really are FUBAR'ed j/k...... I think it's a twelve year cycle like the Chinese Zodiac. Because 99's are pretty quirky too with the trans issues and speedometers crapping out....not to mention the weird "double airfilter" setup (which I actually like, but screws with alot of people if the 2nd box isn't sealed it's an air leak) Never owned a 2111, but I'll avoid those too and get me a 2014 Crosstrek hybrid when the time comes!

IAC hose not connected? Pcv hose not connected?

Seen it Dealt with removing it Why NOT use what was in there in the first place?

No. 20 watts max per channel on the factory deck. they'll make sound, but not crisp.

Don't use any orange coolant with the old green stuff. They mix and become jelly that cloggs heater core and lower rad and is super hard to flush out. You could use Orange stuff in a COMPLETELY empty and cleaned flushed out system from scratch....but don't mix. I always use green as that what subaru has always used. I run it at about 65/35 ratio coolant to water.

Check were the disty is pointed at TDC first, and verify firing order is correct.

Dumb question but have you verified bulbs work with power straight to them? Red wire at the RH lights, and Red/blue wire at the LH bulbs should be 12v pos. Other pins are ground for Hi/lo Also....have you checked fuses?

Some cars have adjustable radius rods to set Camber/caster. The tech could have mistakenly tried to "adjust" the radius rods to get camber.....not knowing that camber isn't adjustable on these cars. That's why I simply use 2 yard sticks to set the toe. Place the end of each stick inside the inner lip of the wheel at the back......and ovelap them.....mark the line where they overlap. Repeat at the inside lip of the front of the wheel. Compare the lines. Adjust tierods until the marks front to back match. then turn one tierod in 1/4 turn. this gives you a tiny bit of toe in which is what theses cars require. "alignment" at a shop on these cars is a waste.

Now turnt he engine over until the dots are diagonally OUT from eachother, and the crank is at 0TDC. Then pull the disty cap and see if it's pointed at #1. Verify valve timing by doing a compression check if needed.

Bulb may be burned out or removed. It's to the right of the steering wheel, at the far right end of the area where the BATT, STOP LAMP, and R. GATE LOCK lights are. Unscrew the dash bezel and pull it out and check the bulb. If the bulb is good, Hook a test light to 12v power, and then probe pin 40, R/Y wire at the ECU. it's almost center top of the smallest connector at the ECU. You can also probe that wire at the check connector under the dash. Big black connector, with only 6 or 7 wires in it. Same color Red/Yellow wire. It's worth noting, I have seen a few of these ECU's with failed circuits for the light, so if the wiring and bulb check out you may need to replace ECU. Definately more likely just a burnt bulb or someone cut the wire to sell the car with the light out. Also the unused connectors under the dash are not the issue. those are for optional equipment install. I believe cruise control if IIRC.

This isn't true. Engine is not ALWAYS trying to move you forward. Give the engine no Gas.....it does nothing but act as resistance to the rolling momentum. An engine with no gas being fed to it, or a completely closed throttle plate is acting as a braking force.....period. The on;y time your statement would apply is at too low a speed for a given gear.....i.e. letting off throttle and coasting to 10mph in 5th gear.....at that point the engine RPMS would be below 400-500, and the ECU will try to keep the enigne running so will give it a bit of fuel and the enigne will fight the car trying to slow. But c'mon......you are the one who said this is about "real world" situations. Obviously knowing what gear you need to be in is required. Maximum control is the issue.....not wear on either brakes or clutch.....both are wear items and meant to be replaced eventually. Slipping clutches kills them.....riding brakes kills them........Using either in the proper manner.......they will last as long as they were meant....... I engine brake/downshift into almost every corner.(in addition to brakes)....it affects the way the car pitches fore/aft and the way the tires grip the road in a different way than brakeing alone. I don't go through clutches or brakes more so than anyone else.....in fact I think both my brakes and clutch last longer than most peoples because I don't slip the clutch, I don't power into the clutch until it's released fully, and I don't ride my brakes hard into every corner. I've been driving like this for 20 years. The only clutches I ever have to replace seem to be on my wheelers.....not my road cars. And by the way......Truckers use their clutches. It's stupid not to espescially when you consider the price of big rig trans repair. You'd get fired if the company that owns the truck caught you doing that. Many truck trans don't even have synchros, That's why they rev match during the DOUBLE CLUTCH......not no clutching at all.