Gloyale

Test the bulb by turning the key on/eng. off Then ground the charge light wire of the alt (Black/white on 90's cars..not sure of yours) Grounding that wire should light the bulb, if not...the bulb is burnt out or there is a break in that cicuit.

Sounds right for cold.....especially with Rottella 15-40........you do know that's diesel oil right? It's recommended to run 10-40 in the summer or 10-30 in the cold winter. 15-40 is too thick, you get high pressure, but slow flow to the bearings which can actually starve them. And will hurt gas mileage.

There are a bunch of badd alts out there right now. Problem is with the "sense" circuit in the alt which is the Yellow wire. That wire is tied directly into the ECU power supply. Try disconnecting the plug that goes to the alt, and see if the issue stops. If that isn't it....the dash grounds through a big fat Black/yellow wire that bolts to the chassis on the passenger side of the tunnel, under the far forward corner of the center console. That wire has a big spade connector about 12-18" up the wire from where it bolts in. This connector can get hot, melted, corroded by spilled soda etc.......check it.

Putting an additive in is not "fixing" the tranny. It's hardly even DIY. It's pouring in a bottle and hoping it works. This entire thread is anecdotal, with a few reports of it "working" ( but obviously not that well if you have to add it every year )......and that's just testimony from one person. My personal experience has been different. Others here have had differing results........ So Rooster......It's great this worked for you. But you're being almost resitant to identifying the underlying root cause and I don't understand why? I woudl think you would want to know? Instead, you seem to be insistant that people buy this product and use it and that is the best solution. Are you sure they aren't paying you already??? I am not saying nobody should ever use it. I am just trying to actually identify an issue and not just say "wooohoo! the snake oil worked.....for a year......or not at all." and be satisfied with that. I have driven many 4eats that shift great, no delays......so I know that there is something WRONG inside the trans when they don't run right.......I want to know what that problem is and FIX IT!!! Would you want your car fixed? Or would you want it to be better, but then bad again next year. Any logical person would say an actual fix is better in the long run. I cannot believe I am getting argument over this. I should just figure it out myself and not share with anyone.....since nobody seems to care about solving it. With that said, I love you guys, and I care insanely too much about peoples experience with their Subies. So I I will not post in this thread again until I have reinstalled the trans I pulled with this problem....and can report on whether the replacement input shaft o-ring, and cleaning of the shuttles have "fixed" the problem.

Check the radius rod bushings and see if: #1 the nut has been tightened down all the way #2 The bushings are reasonably intact, not split, not toatally crushed. #3 While it's in the air, check the balljoints....try to pry between the arm and the knuckle and see if the ball moves.

I never called anyone a "cheap hack". And by all means if Trans-x will make the issue go away for a while then use it. Obviously I see value to it, I tried it on this car TWICE. Geez.....I thought people would be more interested in actually identifying what in the trans causes this shifting issue.....then being mad at me for not worshiping a bottled additive as the "END ALL" fix.

99 sohc 2.5 and 2002 sohc 2.5 you needed a different timing belt? That doesn't sound right.

Yeah, I did that in my old Turbo GL. 3.9 legacy 4eat running from the 3.7 EA TCU. Had to modify the shifter to get first, and even then had to go to second, hit the "1st hold" button, then move the lever to first or I would get not TC lockup for downhill crawl engine braking in first. otherwise worked fine.

Is that on stock cars or on lifted ones or EJ swaps? kinda could make a difference. I'll take a remaned subaru axle over chinese "new" ones any day.

Those are identifier pads for type of axle. 4wd manual 1 pad or none. fwd auto 2 pads turbo 3 pads. The axle is fine...just aftermarket with a funky boot. This is your problem pulling to one side or the other under hard accel/decel in these cars is almost always a radius rod bushing issue. For what it's worth..if the axle was wrong length it wouldn't affect camber. Knuckle psition is set by the raduis rod, a-arm, strut top, and tie rod. Axle would either be stretched or buckled up if too long or too shart, but the knuckle is fixed by the suspension....not the axle

You can swap out the unstuck TC and input shaft.

Becuase it's a 4 stroke engine. Crank rotates 2 full 360 degrees for every one 360 degree rotation of the Cams.

That's your problem. Grey and black injectors are not interchangable.

Timing belt stretched? Stalled the engine locking up tires? Why would this cause a bent valve? Have you done a compression test? that would be the easy way to tell. But when 2.DOHC engines bend valves, they rarely run at aall afterwords.....let alone driveable.

Double check the timing belt alignment. If that's all good drive that sucka......probably just crap in the exhaust pipe. gotta at least get it going 60 for a little bit to see if it all clears up.

Yikes. Nothing to do but pull on that sucka.

Well, for some realistic math...... ATF cost 5.50 a quart for anything worth putting in a 4EAT. 4EAT holds almost 10 quarts.....a flush ussually requires 8. So that's $44. Plus the trans-x itself is almost $10. Even at $6 that makes each flush $50 bucks. Not to mention the $30 spin on filter. So that's $80 a pop......to not even fix it just make it temporarily better (not much better in this case) On the other hand........ if the issue is just the input shaft o-ring......it can be replaced simply by removeiong the trans, removing TC to access input shaft, and installing a new ring, and reinstalling. No "rebuild" needed just a few externally accesible seals. I charge about $350 for R+R of an auto trans. O-ring cost is about a dollar. So that's $351 dollars. 3 or 4 years of trans flushes will get to that cost pretty quick. Besides, just telling them to live with it and flush and fill and add additives every year doesn't work in the real world of people actually wanting there car fixed. I'll be setting myself up for a bad reputation and possibly a small claims suit if I try to just "trans-x" it again. And for the record, once a year is way to often to have to be flushing your auto trans....there is a problem and it needs to be actually fixed. Is putting the sealeant slime in a 2.5 "fixing" the headgasket? No, of course not....it's delaying the date of the actual repair, or in some cases the demise of the car. Eitehr way it's kicking the can to someone else and cashing out.......NOT the way I do business. Now, As I said, I've already used it in this same car, and at best the Trans-x made the problem a little less severe. Never made it go away EVER. These customers are NOT car people.....and the violent slam into drive is very scary to them and they do not trust the car......If I don't fix they will sell it, and likely not buy another subaru.....so it's in my best interest, and Subaru's too, to actually fix the issue permanently. Now espescially since we have the trans open for an unrelated Diff/pinion bearing issue, we want to address this problem and actually FIX it. Like I said I'll just PM Ivan because he actually sees the value in "FIXING" a problem.

Ditto. Bosch suck.

I can do a mobile service and come up and get it running if you want. If you're getting CEL, power from the relay, you are really close. Don't give up yet. ALOT cheaper than an aftermarket ECU. Plus your gonna have to wire up and program the aftermarket ECU anyhow.

CTS= coolant temp sensor I'd replace those bosch plugs with NGK pronto. Bosch are junk for subarus.

The title of this thread is a bit misleading. You didn't really identify the issue. You haven't really found a "fix".....you found a temporary mask of the issue......the bad seals/o-ring/clutches....whatever causes it, are still in there. Ivan seems maybe to have. That's why I was asking him. I should just PM him. I've used it in this customers car twice in the last 4 years. Never "fixed" it just made it a little less pronounced. They want an actual fix.

That's only for the 5mt. The 4eat has a stud, and then the "extra" hole is under the starter lip. You can swap the EJ25 harness and TB onto the EJ22 intake and it will work fine. You will need to pop the pins for the coil wire out of the EJ25 harness, and swap the connector from EJ22 harness over to use the EJ22 coil. You will also need to swap the Evap solenoid. May need to install another Vac nipple into the manifold for the Evap line to go too....unless your EJ25 TB has the line for evap in it. Some are in the TB, some are in the top of the intake just infront of the TB. Likely need to "T" into the evap line for the MAP source sensor hose. Minor detail tricky tset up just right but won't make it not run anyway.

Wait? Old or New? Mix match? New seals or reusing? Are you sure you got correct ones? 90 intakes use an oddball black injector with a smaller nozzle. Whatever you did, the injectors are not seated in the rail propely, and youve got raw fuel draining past the injector into the engine.

Check for any loose hoses, cracked and brittle vac hoses, etc.....but if you don't find anything obvious there, change your sparkplugs and possibly the wires too if they are old. NGK plugs.

Does the CEL illuminate with the key on? Did you give power to the light green wire to trigger the IG. relay? Can you hear the relay working? ECU must not be powered properly.