Gloyale

Damn, that would be so much more useful. Hooks and a proper lip on the bed instead of the stupid chrome held in with plastic clips? Why did they give us such a useless setup over here?

Did you replace the flat viton ring at the bottom of the injector seat? As well as the Oring that seals the upper lip? Pretty clear you've got fuel draining out of the rail, around the injector and into the cylinder(s)

Sounds like you have "starting" problems..... not "starter" problems. You are saying the car will crank over, but not fire and run. Does the Check Engine Light come on when you turn key on/engine off? Do you hear the fuel pump run to prime the engine? Are you sure all Vacuum and PCV hoses are hooked up? No unmetered air leaks? And lastly have you changed the Fuel filter and Air filter?

Good! My therapist can suck it! I am Goin!

The actual rubber o-ring that seals the end of the input shaft? Or the split viton deals that seal the end of the OilPump drive tube/TC extension? I have a customer car here fighting the bad delayed engagement. Tried trans-x, kinda worked for a year but they want a real fix not a bottle. Gonna tear the whole trans down for a possible front diff issue too (donut spare on the front, didn't install FWD fuse either )

Black/white wire of the EA to the Yellow wire of the EJ plug. White/Red wire of the EA to the Black/white wire of the EJ plug. Big white EA wire to the charge terminal. You may want to run a new wire back to the Fusible link box, or at least replace the last 6-12 inches of wire with new and a new ring terminal.

What year? 90-98 is a bit harder than newer but either is a pretty easy.

Headgaskets and a Timing Belt should not be more than $2000 How do you know it needs a transmission? A/C can be expensive but it sounds mostly like you need a better more realistic priced mechanic. Where's the Suby specialist shop in Seattle?

I'm glad you addressed this stuff. +1 to everything. The OP surely agrees too. A fresh set of heads later and his car is good to go.

Probaly one tooth off.

The last thing you want is all 4 wheels locking up. The drivetrain won't be stopped if you properly modulate and don't lock the wheels. (unless we are talking about that last 2mph slowdown on snow or mud that ABS will keep you rolling and make you crash).. But we aren't, we are talking panic braking..... You should not put the clutch in during an emergency manuever. Brake, don't lock up..and steer away......you may need throttle to help maintain control during manuever.

This is the key here. Rev matching.... And of course just like any clutch action it should be in or out, with not alot of slipping at all. many people ride the clutch both on up and downshifts to keep everything all smooth...as a substitute for proper throttle technique. The biggest wear with downshifting is actually on the Ring and pinion in the diffs, and in CV axles which normally have all their load in one direction. Heavy compression braking loads thier opposite wear faces. But whatever.......It's not a big wear issue if properly Rev matching and clutching..... AND braking at the same time Heel n' Toe The biggest thing for me is more control, espescially with an AWD car. Braking you can lock up whereas a downshift will not. Braking affects mostly rear wheels whereas a downshift affects all wheels evenly and keeps the engine engaged with the roll action/balance of the car. Properly done it's best to downshift and brake before or just entering a corner, and accelerate out. Coasting during cornering and or braking just leaves you WAAAY less in control.

Okay, so the EA TCU needs how many wires? Let's do math. There are 2 connectors on the trans......and then the wiring harness runs into the cabin through the pass side fenderwell.....goes through 2 more connectors, one white, one black and runs unde the seats back to the passenger side behind the rear seat (WTF Fuji???) That back section of harness is everything you need minus a few inputs from the dash/ECU/engine. There is also a third connector that goes into the dash. The wirees in this connector include the Dash indicator light wires, and control wires. The indicator light wires are coming from the Trans wiring, so you don't need to hook them up to anything else.....they are going to the TCU from the indicator switch already in the other part of the bundle and the wires here are just for the lights in the dash. The input control wires however are going to the trans wiring from the ECU/engine. So you do need them. This is my count for from the ECU/ the dash wiring. 12v IG. switched Tach VSS TPS Maybe a ground...although I think it grounds through the trans wiring So 4 wires minumum....and if you wanted to have "AT Temp","1st hold" and "Power" and all you're gear indicator wires but you don't need to. And all of these can be tapped off of that 3rd connector in the footwell.....otherwise the EA 4EAT wiring is standalone from the rest of the harness..........unlike later EJ harnesses where the trans wiring is totally in the main harness with everything else, headlights, etc... It's probably easier than an EJ harness strip/swap believe it or not.

I have contemplated this type of swap too recently....(thinking of going auto in the 84 wheeler with the t-case) and I've put a newer gen 4eat into an EA series 4eat car. The EA TCU wiring harness is 95% seperate from the dash wiring and ECU. It wouldn't be too tough to wire it in. That said, it would be a better option to use a new gen Leg or Imp trans and TCU for that swap.....and if your're keeping the EA engine, that would mean a diff/bell swap on the 4eat. Dang.....Unless that 88 is a rats nest, it sounds like fixing the 88 and upgradeing it with parts from the GL-10 is probably the best bet. A 3AT swap would be super easy, practically no wiring....and good for short low speed trips.....instant on/off 4wd. I guess you gotta pick a path but it's all doable any way.

98 intake is still phase I. If it's a Phase II it won't physically bolt to the 90 EJ22. Here is what you can do. You need to use your 2001, EJ25 intake wiring harness. You will need to bolt the EJ25 throttle body onto the EJ22 intake. You need to make a thin plate using the throttle body gasket as a template....the plate need to be big enough to block off the port at the top of the EJ25 throttle body. Bolt that in sandwhiched between the TB and intake. You will probably need to splice the Injector connectors from the 2.2 to match the 2.2 injectors. Not sure about the MAP issue. Iis it in the intake or in the plenum or plumbed with a vac hose? Pics? This swap can be done.

There's a group of 4 of them up there. You want the 2 with the black connectors. (green is fuel pump, Blue is Heater blower) Black/White wires are the 12v in from Fusible link. Large Black wire is IG. switched 12v Small black wires are ground Black/red wire goes to fuse 6(running lights) and fuse 7(left headlight) Black/yellow wire goes to the fuse 8(right headlight) and the highbeam light. I'm guessing the problem is with the Right relay or fuse 8

Not sure what you mean by bad "Cell battery"? Do you mean a cell in the Battery? Do you mean the CEL? Is your Cell Phone interfering with the catalytic converter when the battery gets low? Pretty sure that the FCC would like to know about that. Seriously though, If the O2's didn't fix it, it likely needs a CAT.

Without other associated signals from the ABS and VDC systems the ECU will not like the throttle inputs. If you could get one from a non VDC car that would be better....but I still think the ABS would need to be fooled or the ECU reprogrammed.

And you can run them each from a seperate pump. There are already 2 pumps in the washer sprayer of 95+ models. Just grab one of those bottles and run them each to a sprayer. Wire them toghether so they run toghether.

Swap the entire vent/ac button cluster. You exisitng one won't have the electrical switch inside for reg/max AC.

Yep, just replaced one of the cooler o-rings today. Super easy. It was really the only leak on the engine with 220k mi. Valve covers have a tiny bit of seapage and the trans filter is leaking ( I added a spin-on, modified exhaust to clear)

I am in Corvallis, OR I also do EJ swaps, I have an OBD I EJ22 setup ready to install. Adapter plates and flywheels in stock. Could be done very quick, not 2-3 days quick, but a week? a few days to button up exhaust, radiator hoses, etc..... Not cheap, but reasonable.....PM me.

AWD struts are about 2 inches shorter than the FWD.

The H6 exhaust runs right under the drivers side of the trans pan. The spin on filter that is used on 4cyl. models would come too close to the exhaust. You can install the spin on type into the h6 trans by unbolting the blockoff plate, and installing the threaded pipe (kinda like adding the engine oil exchanger to an EJ) If oyu do this, then the filter lives very close to the exhaust pipe. On ours, I cut the exhaust, and added a curved piece to take it out away from the filter a few inches, then installed a heat sheild around the filter.

Everything should ground through the intake wiring harness. If you cut the grounds off near the ECU then grounded them seperate, there may be other items out at the intake that aren't grounded.