Gloyale

Check the dipstick. That looks like a broken chunk of it.

You don't know paint do you? An enamel paint doesn't need to be clear coated. An acrylic laquer does. If your clear coat peels off it means you didn't apply it right, or you used the wrong type. If you are spraying duplicolor paint use the duplicolor clear coat. If you are spraying ppg "deltron" then use delfleet 660 clear with a fast reducer hardener

You will probably be better off using a 2001-2005 3.0 from an Outback, rather than the tribeca motor. The tribeca and all 2006+ engines are drive by wire throttle. You'd need to install the gas pedal and more electronics.

Well, it's not hooked up correctly if you can't get the fuel pump to run. The EJ ECU should ground the relay to operate the pump. You probably need to provide a ground to the pump itself. The original EA MPFI ECU Grounded the pump directly, so you need to run the ground wire for the pump. Just screw it to the body somewhere back near the pump. Tach can indeed be made to work with digidash. IIRC, it takes a resistor in line or something? Someone has solved it and the Vss. Presslab?Euglogious? You don't have to "cut up" the original wiring....just tap in to the needed wires. Easy way is to use a lighter to melt the insulation, strip it back to get some exposed wire, and solder the EJ wire onto it. All of my EJ swaps I leave the original wiring intact.....just "piggyback" onto it. I can understand wanting it to be "removable".. But really, why? you are gonna want to downgrade later? Doing a more thorough install will save you from problems in the future from wires rubbing and shifting.

Replacing the speedo drive gear in the trans would indeed require splitting the case. Splitting open a 4spd is alot harder than the newer 5spds. I would just get "geared" up to do a 5spd swap. Or just buy one of my good 4spds I've got out back $100? PM me if you want one.

You really need to read the EJ swap guide again. There is no reason not to hook the EJ ECU to the Ig. switch. Also, the ECU should have a constant 12v for it's memory. Additionally it souldns like you don't have your "check engine" light hooked up, and you aren't using the EJ tach and Vss wires. Or the EJ fuel pump relay. And sounds like your fusible link is burning out. Could just be from the more powerful EJ alt, or it could be that you've got the whole EJ system powered off a circuit that should only be for accessories. What year harness and ECU are you using? You should be able to tap in all the nessecary EJ wires at the EA computer plugs. Everything is in those connectors. Tach, Vss, Ig. switched power, batt power, CEL, fuel pump relay signal(grounds relay) and start signal. You've got it, just need to do a more complete wiring job.

Grey/red injectors shouldn't matter.

Have you pressure washed the engine? I've seen this problem with water in the spark plug wells.

It's nt supposed to spin freely. There is a portion of it's rotaion that should be "free" but when it comes around to where the cam lobes try to open valves it will give resitance. Just spin it past til it's lined up top.

July 26,27,28th works for me better. Aug is getting too close to WCCS for me. My therapist says only one Suba-centric super adventure per month. jk, but really not.....too close to WCCS in aug....for me.

You don't need to sand down to metal. Just scuff the clearcoat really good. But you will need primer. If you don't use primer, the paint will not stick for more than 6mo-1yr max. Plus a good primer coat will fill and hide minor scratches and dings in the original paint.

Start with the basics. Power to ECU? Do you have the CEL hooked up to the EJ ECU? If so is it cooming on with KeyOn/EngineOff? Check fuses, Check grounds. The EA ECU doesn't need to get power for anything anymore.

A/C compressor tensioner sticks down in front of the covers. Gotta remove it. *HInt* the bottom left bolt for the AC bracket can be just loosened, not removed. The bracket is notched to slip over it. That bolt is also a special long 14mmhead bolt(m10) The tensioner bolt is a long 12mm headed bolt(m8)

Check engine light should come on when you turn the key on, but before starting the engine. Once the engine is running, the light should go out.

Splines changed in 99-2000 ish to finer/more teeth shafts.

Condolences

I haven't seen many recently either. I have a full set of 85-90 EA82 FSMs, and a bunch of earlier Carb Theory, Emmisions control, Feedback Carb operation supplements going all the way back to 70's. Funny how stuff written and illustrated 30 years ago now seems simpler and easy to understand. Even though it's complex carb stuff. The supplementals are full of color diagrahms that probably had matching Overhead Projection Transparencies for Subaru training sessions. I read service literature like a 13 year old reading "Hunger Games"

Nope....this is the air suction valve he's talking about. Bowl vent transducer is on the other side of the intake. It only has 2 ports...and often get's broken in the removal/reinstall of the spare tire.

Non turbo(SPFI,Carbed) EA82s don't have the seperator or the vent at the center/rear of the block. It's the giveaway when you are try to tell if an engine was originally a turbo car. Reseal: Cam seals, Cam end cap o-rings Crankshaft seal Oil pump seals, all 3 (mickey, O-ring, shaft seal) Dipstick o-ring Distributor o-ring Valve covers possibly oil pan, but that requires lifting the engine up a bit off the crossmember and once you reseall al;l the rest, you may find you don't need to do the pan. I wouldn't bother removing the cam towers and redoing the o-ring there, unless you are gonna just do the headgaskets.....which actually wouldn't be a bad idea since a headset will include almost all the seals and gaskets.

Andy I've got a slew of EA82t parts. Spider intakes, set of new injectors, MAFs, ECUs, CTSs, etc... Let me know. I missed your PMs last week. Are you gonna be down this week?

Very nice RX. But I would not drive it at all, espesciaslly not at 75-80 until you fix that rear crossmember. I'm sure someone from out west will ship you a rust free one.

I have a long time customer with an 88 DL, Temp and Gas gauges work intermittently. ALthough in his case, the Temp drops off when the Gas Gauge does as well. Rep;laced gas sender, not the issue. Traced all wiring for continuity. Checked main ground and 12v supply through the big connectors under dash. Still can't fiugure it out. Thought I'd mention it though.

I believe I was mistaken. My bad. The cranks are all the same. EJ18,EJ20,EJ22 The pistons are different. I think I was thinking about EA81/82 pistons sharing bore size with the EJ20. Which they do...92mm

Well, depending on what circuit he hooked into for IG. switched power the IG. switched power could be momentatrily dropping off while cranking. It's my understanding that the start signal wire is there to solve that, providing strable voltage during cranking, in addition to it's fuel trim function. I feel like there should still be spark either way, but I think it's worth a try, I've seen/heard of lots of swaps not starting til that wire is hooked up.

Not on his Loyale If you get headlamp buckets from a 85/86 then the mounting will be there.