Gloyale

Pretty much any 4 strole engine Cam gear(s) are double the size of the crank. Kinda the nature of the beast. What you are missing for the lines not lining up after rotation is that the # of teeth on the belt isn't excactly divisible by the # of teeth on the Largest gears (cam gears) If the Total belt tooth # were evenly divisible by the Cam gear tooth # then they would line up 1 out of X rotations, with x being the result of Total Teeth divided by Cam teeth. As it is, they won't line up again til 127 rotations or something close to that.

If this is a 2wd car or an older EA81 car you will need to adjust out the rear shoes. Jack up a rear wheel so it spins free. There is a square headed bolt on the bottom center of the backingplate. Screw it in by 1/4 turn clicks while spinning the wheel. Stop when the wheel locks, and then back off 2 clicks. repaeat for other rear. If it's a 4wd EA82 car this doesn't apply, and I would also suspect the MC

EGR light needs to be reset. 2 Blue, 1 green connectors behind fusebox. Disconnect whichever are hooked toghether, then reconnect to the other one. or just pull the bulb. It's just telling you "it's been 60k miles......clean the EGR" It'll come back again in another 60k Don't plate off the EGR. But DO plug the large line that comes out of it and runs over to the Anti backfire valve. That vavle goes bad and makes a huge Vacuum leak. With only 60k, If you had left all the hoses alone, and just drained the carb bowl and blow out the emulsions and it would run fine. These carbs get gummed and clogged up....clean them out, and it makes a huge difference.

Did you retrieve the orrifice plugs from the old hoses? If not, you have way too much air running into the air bleeds for hte emulsion tubes.

waterpump won't ussually cause overheating itself. Only if it's leaking and you run low enough on coolant. If you are not out of coolant, yet the engine is oveheating, it's quite possibly headgaskets. Either way you need to take off the belt. Bumping the starter with a breaker against the frame is the best way.

That would work with a carbed EA82, but not an FI. Could actually damage the ECU. I don't understand how you can have 12v to the POS of coil, but not to the NEG.....they are 2 ends of a long "coiled" wire? There must be something missed in the testing there. I'm thinking it could be the distrubutor?

That would be it. Thick red yellow wire. Tied in with the Clutch/start relay ciruit in the IMP. If it's a big fat wire, but gets small right before the ECU that's definately it. Hook it to the "5"th pin in your IG. switch. The one by itself at the corner. Your existing harness may or may not have a pin on the body side, but it should be there in the connector coming from the switch.

Double post

Rods are the same. Crank is different. Shorter stroke in the 18. Interestingly though, EJ18 and NA EJ20 share same piston size.....hmmmm??? And Also, NA EJ20 and EJ22 share cranks (same stroke)......Hmmmm? MAybe a 2.2 crank w/ NA 2.0 pistons in the EJ18 block? I guess you could just get a JDM NA 2.0 at that point

It's probably in the yellow wire that is tied to the IG. on circuit that powers the Coil, Transistor, IAC, and a whole bunch of other stuff. That wire is notoriuosly cut out of the harness. It has a crimp splice that is by the fuse box, and is often cut out as it doesn't seem to be coming from either the Intake or ECU, but it is. Also maybe the Start signal wire? Oh and what ALT are you running? There has been a bad batch going round that when tied to the ALT IG. circuit (yellow wire mentioned above) will trip out the ECU like try to reset it over and over? If you have you're ALT hooked up like that, like it would have been in the Legacy, and it's a new alt, unhook it then try to start.

And that will be a great engine for you. As it is. My lifted wagon is an 84. EJ18 to have reliabilty, parts availability, and alot more ponies than the stock EA81, which I had run Carbed, and SPFI before going to the EJ. Like yours it was cheap from a board member, $50, Although just a bare longblock. I had to wire up a harness for it, and I actually used a 93 EJ22 harness/intake/ECU for it. My GF's wagon is strictly about gas mileage. EJ18 coupled through a pushbutton single range 5spd. 185/70/14 tires, just a bit bigger than stock. Sadly, I think a good running SPFI EA82 could beat it on fuel mileage Problem is it needs to be a GOOD running EA82, and that's almost an oxymoron......anymore. If you got a good deal on it run it. Don't tear into a good engine when it's ready to drop in and rock out. Do the swap, and when you want more power, get an EJ22 and bolt it in under the Impreza intake. Done.

3.0 for sure The 2.5 would do, but youd be in the high rev range all the time. 3.0 or even a 3.6 will move it nice. 3.0 liter would be just a bit easier to wire up, since the 3.6 is a drive by wire throttle.

85/86 flapper MAF type use a 2 wire Knock sensor. Round connector 87+ Hotwire MAF uses a one wire. slim round connector The CTS is in that area too. square 2 wire

To my knowledge, Subaru has never made any claims that these heads are better. I've read ALOT of subaru literature about the EA cars.....never heard more than a passing mention about these heads. Nothing I've read supports any claims of "thicker" or upgraded anything. And the cracks between the vavles aren't were they leak anyhow. That's why the "valve grinder Mechanic" (whatever that means???) will warranty them lol. They don't leak there anyhow. I don't buy the conspiracy theory either that machinist are trying to make us all use crappy old heads and hide the existance of better ones. They really aren't any better. Newer, less used. otherwise they are the same crappy EA82t heads they always were. I think at this point the myth has become legend, and repeated so many times people believe it. But look at the heads. Cut a few open (like I have) and you will see that there is no difference.

Could be the "stop driving or youll damage the CAT" flashes (bad misfire code) I've seen this on new motor installs when there is water in the spark plug tubes. Blow them out. Otherwise I would say that you maybe got the wrong Black connectors?

That is a much easier swap.

+1 to all this I've never seen any substantial (or really any) differencees between gen1/2 and gen 3 heads. I am almost positive that the valves are the same, the rockers, and lifters are the same, the valves also seem to be the same size, the spec never changed in FUJI's literature. They are just newer so less likely to have cracked yet.

You pulled that 93 rear end from a MT car (which were 4.11) OR it had been switched before.

Once you cut the engine wiring and ECU harness out of the entire loom, the EJ18 and EJ22 are the same size (ej22 has one extra wire for knock sensor:) ) The EJ18 impreza harness is a bit easier to stripdown and cut....but that's minor, and really more of an issue of the wiring, more than the engines themselves. An EJ18 harness/ecu can run a EJ22, and a EJ22 harness/ecu can run an EJ18 Intakes have minor differences too, but again are interchangable to either engine. The EJ22 intake is more compatible with injectors and IAC from other engines like 2.5's. They aren't quite as tall either, so in an XT it might be better but really again, either one can be used on either engine, it's really a matter of matching the Intake to the Harness/ECU more than the engine. Now as for the enignes. An EJ22 is not an EJ18 bored out. Close, but not quite. The barrels are actually cast smaller in the EJ18. The aluminum walls around the barrel are thick. About 12mm compared to 10mm with some notches on the EJ22. EJ18 barrels are not nearly large on the OD (coolant jacket edge) to bore out to the as the ID (cylinder wall) of an EJ22. If you were to do this, there would be almost no aluminum left, and the barrel would be about 1.5mm wall thickness outside the steel liner. That's if you could/should even stuff a new liner in. Subaru liners are cast in, not pressed, and they don't come up to the deck like an retrofit one would. EJ18 and EJ22e heads are identical. The valve arrangement is smaller than the bore of either engine, and the cylinders centerpoints are the same so you can bolt them to either block They are the same other than an EGR port on all EJ18s and only some EJ22. You're obviously aware of the similarities of these engines as you are asking about transfering upgrades from the EJ22 to the EJ18? EJ18s are tough, and great engines. I love the one in my lifted wheeler and in my GF's daily driver Loyale. More people should use them for EJ swaps on older soobs. BUTif I wanted more power, I would just put a 2.2 in it, rather than try to tear down an EJ18 and maybe tease a bit more out of an already just fine engine to get unknown results. You can DEFINATELY get that power EASY with a 2.2 swap.

Nope. The heads would have to be off and the pistons pulled. Might as well split her at that point

Idling under 1k is normal. 700-800 is about right Stalling/dieing is not normal. If you've got a code for bad Maf I'd change that tout first and the figure it out from there.

You will need the non-turbo ECU as well I it will act up/shift weird times. 92-94 legacy autos were all 3.9

. Dude you gotta just shove your hand up In there. There is a connector and they are all in the same place.

The switches are in a bad place on the rear doors. Loading cargo into the back seats can often bump them.

All USDA ej18 are Mpfi, not spfi. They use the same timing belts as ej22. There is no reason to try to squeeze more from a 1.8 when the 2.2 is a cheap direct swap. Unless you are racing and constrained to a certain displacement.