Gloyale

Worst case replace the oil pump and live with the damage and call it good for likely a long time.

Black at fender = Boost solenoid connector black and white by starter = trans lights/control for auto??? car converted to manual?

The Valves are the same size. I just measured a 92 dual and a 96 single port head side by side. Both heads, the intake and exhaust vales are indentical respectively The exhaust port(s) is the only difference. I would agree about keeping roller rockers with the matching cams.

It is normal for the stub to wobble inside the trans. If anything, it means the Circlip that holds the stub into the spiders is a bit worn. DO NOT adjust the bearing cups trying to tighten these up. That will tighten the bearings, and the diff carrier, but the stubs themselves are held by circlips into the spiders. They are what they are, and there is no way to tighten them up. If the play is truely excessive, replacing the diff carrier is the only option. I've never needed to do this. If you're getting click clack from the axle area, it's likely the axles....even if they are new. At least 1 in 3 "new" axles make noise out the box.

No the slave cyl. mounting points are on the trans part of the bell, not the engine bell. To the OP. Popping out of 4th means the top shaft (input) is walking fore and aft in the case. This is almost certainly from a failed input shaft rear bearing. The bearing, and a few other seals toghether would on;y be about $100-$150 bucks from the dealer. The uppershaft bearing is actually pretty easy to change once the case is split. Only the 5th gearset needs to be removed. If the trans otherwise shifts, and drives well, with no pinion whine......you could probably get alot more life out of it, and not have any leaks. If you were closer, I'd say bring it to me and I can do it very reasonable...but I'd bet there is someone in your area that could do it or you could even do it yourself if you've got the place/time.

This is the key to it here. The lift block make leveraged force on the nut side to side, that it would never see under normal situations when the subframe is bolted right ot that point. This is why some HighGuys 4" and all HighGuys 6" kits are crossbraced on the rear suspension. So the blocks can't wiggle side to side and stress the unibody and captive nuts. Not to mention the safety issue of driving around and having the subframe shifting under you.

Whole exhaust from a 96+ lego should fit right under the older Legacy. Although, the hangers at the trans, and just before the rear crossmember, may not quite line up, but with a little bending of the mounting tab it should work. Again, though, a junkyard won't sell you the "whole" exhaust, they aren't legaclly allowed to sell catalytics. I'd be checkin craiglist for someone parting out a car.

97 and later will be hydro clutch. You'll need to swap the location of the pivot ball, and swap the clutch fork from the old trans.

97 2.2 would work in the 99 forrester with a few notables. Swap throttle body. Might need a block off of the IAC hole on the 2.5 TB. Swap wiring harness from EJ25 intake onto EJ22 intake. Injector pigtails will need swapped to fit 2.2 injectors. IAC on 2.2 will need plugged. Might need to swap Crank and Cam gears from 2.5 onto 2.2 This setup will run, but likely might have a CEL, and IAC function will not work.....takes a few minutes to warm up in the morning.

You do NOT need to remove balljoints, control arm, or any front suspension to drop the trans out the bottom. Pop out the pins, prepare everything else, and then as the trans is pulled back and down slightly, you can push it to one side, slide off an axle, then push it to the other side. Reinstall is the reverse. Easier with 2 people and a good tranny jack. Tranny jack is cheaper, and smaller to store than an engine hoist. I really do not understand the "easier to pull the engine" philosophy of clutch replacement. Unless there is a good reason to pull the engine, leave it in place and save yourself the coolant, and fuel line removal.

My GF's "new" 91 Loyale EJ18 engine, harness, ECU. All from 94 Impreza Donor car. EA single range 4wd stuffed into a EJ 5spd case. EJ clutch and flywheel, no adapter. I'm very happy with this install....very clean. A/C compressor not hooked up yet, but soon....need some adapter lines made to fit EJ pump to EA condensor. I drilled a 2" hole with a hole saw though the blank where the JDM steering wheel column would be. Ran all the wiring through that hole using Grommet from the Impreza. Other mods to the car include 185/70/14 tires on redrilled Nissan rims. 86 GL-10 height adjusting seats. Home made Trailer hitch.

While I agree it would be a "good" idea to do so, I don't undestand why you seem to think this is SO important? The Chips from the gear will be in the diff oil. ATF in the governor should not be contaminated. I didn't clean and polish mine other than a quick wipe and blow with compressed air. And it runs fine now. I don't put many miles on that car though......less than 1k a year. Just curiuos what your thinking is here or if you've had a specific problem from not cleaning governor?

Well smack me and call me Sally. So I've been proven wrong. Although I have to ask, are these pictures of new tires for sale in the US? Or is Hockey1242GL's pic of the new tires from Canada? And those used ones, they look old and almost like re-treads. I can't find that size listed for sale by anyone around here or online.

Hey Andy, I've stil got all my FSM's for EA82s if you need them. PM me if you need any help. Although it sounds to me like you are in need of an EJ swap

Again, this setup will yeild a LO light in 4wd, and a 4wd light only when in LO.

BW from body = 12v IG. = POS BW from Disty = POS Yellow from disty = NEG Yellow from body = Tach signal wire = NEG #1 Solid black = RF supresion condensor install to positve side of coil #6 Someone has added this wire. it's going to the Anti-diesel solenoid on carb, and bowl vent solenoid. that is ussually controlled by the Fuel Pump control unit, above the hood release latch on teh kickpanel. Yours may not be working or is missing or something but someone has bypassed it to IG switched power of the POS on the coil. Will run like that, but less than ideal.

Good point. But I don't think a sliders gonna help. It's the angle that the joints run at that limits them. And the axles as they are have enough slide in them to get to their max angle already. EA82 rear outer joints are fixed (no slide) but they can run at a higher angle........perhaps a slider between a set of those at each end of a shaft......maybe lengthed too with longer swingarms..........hmmmm...........

They were all made in Gunma Japan. DL = no Tach, no OP gauge, no Volt Gauge, no power windows or locks, Single range 5spd only, Cheap interior carpet and seats, no passenger sideview, no map light, no split folding rear seat, no center console tray, no tilt steering wheel, steel wheels with small center caps only (no wagon spokes or alloys) "loyale" style rear glass set in with rubber gasket (vs. Overlayed adhesived with blackout trim), and of course the all famous and sought after 4-Square headlight setup. A/C and power steering, and dealer cruise were the only DL "options" GL = all that stuff not in the DL, GL-10 = Digidash, plush interior, trip computer, sunroof, outside temp, and a host of other little goodies. Air suspension optional on GL-10 only. Loyale = Production line runout. Power steering standard. All of the GL-10 options are dropped. All rear glass is gasket like DL. Power windows and locks optional. Volt and OP gauges optional. No center console tray, No dual range 4wd, Map light optional, split fold optional. All have automatic seatbelts. Smaller armrests on doors, bigger one in center. Clutch/start safety switch added. A/C optional. As for ride height. Alot of the strut manufactures "split the difference" in height between the 2wd and 4wd struts, and now make just one part. The problem is this makes the rears too long, and the front too short. My guess is you've got a still good or "less old" set on the front, From when they made them a correct height for 4wd. And same or a new set of replacements on the rear which yeild a little bump up. If you get true 2wd rear struts they are 2" longer than the true 4wd struts. It's a crap shoot anymore though what height you get with what listing. Take your tape measure to the store or yard when youre buying.

You may have a hard time finding a proper exhaust manifold. Your 92 y pipe is all one piece until after hte Catalytic. The single port pipes are equal length back to the middle, then flange into the Cat. Wrecking yards won't sell you the CAT part and you can't unbolt you're cat from the existing y-pipe. It won't all just bolt up unless you get an entire exhaust from a single port car. Jerry's here in town is good at custom exhaust, and will adapt your Cat to a single port y-section as long as you let him keep the cat on it. He won't take the Cat out uless you bring him the car on a trailer with no liscense plates on it. (off-road only)

You can simply swap the Solid rocker setup onto the 92 heads and keep the dual port exhaust.

Thermoswitch or other automatic control (ECU) You don't want your fan running all the time, it will burn it up. Whatever you do, I suggest running it through a relay, with the thermoswitch triggering the ground side of the relay.

You are wrong about the springs. If it lifted your car it's becuase the old springs were worn out. Perhaps also you put 2wd rear Loyale struts on? they are 2 inches longer and will lift the rear of ANY 4wd EA82 car. And an old set of tires on a rig at the junkyard doesn't prove they are still available. Frankly too, I don't believe you as a good source of observation or informtaion...so I'm pretty sure you were looking at a set of 14" tires. Or maybe 195/60/13 Which they do make. Largest 13" tire I've ever seen listed for sale was a 185/80/13.......and I don't think they make those for the U.S. Market anymore either. But whatever. YOU are the subaru expert with 15+ years owning, driving, and working on EA82 cars. YOU are the one with Factory service manuals and parts catalogs for EVERY year EA82 (including XT's). And YOU are the one who builds and sells lift kits of all sizes for EA71, EA81, EA82, and EJ body cars up to 2008. Oh wait, that's me not you.

Run on sentences and mispelling are making it really hard to tell what you are trying to accomplish? Are you trying to use Subaru rear axles in a front hub? Why not just use Legacy rear axles and knuckles? That knuckle is already setup with the pivots for a multilink rear end. Wrong way round. He's saying use a Subaru engine and a VW gearbox, that is already setup for rear drive. Or, use a FWD subaru trans, and put the engine in front of it, with the trans sticking out the back. A FWD, 4EAT automatic or a FWD legacy/imp 5spd would be awesome, nice and short too not alot of rear overhang.

Sounds like a turbo car with a Pull clutch. won't apply to his 94 Legacy. And actually, you are supposed to reach into the housing, along the fork line, with a flathead screwdriver, and pry the TO bearing out of it's clip/ring in the pressure plate, before seperating the eng/trans. To the OP in this thread, it will help to remove the "dogbone" mount from the top/center of the trans. Eng can come out with it there, but it will be almost impossible to reinstall so go ahead and take it out first. Then it's just lift and pull. Make sure to get the little things too like heater hoses, hillholder cable, wiring for the Crank/Cam/Knock sensors (under throttlebody)

Measurement to the ground doesn't really show much. You should measure compressed vs. extended lengths while you have it flexed out. That's the real # that matters.