Gloyale

IAC code may be coming up becuase the nuetral switch is not hooked up? Doesn't know when to coast or keep the idle up?

As I was viewing this thread I was thinking of asking the same question. Essential equipment IMO

Evens Creek lookls to be a bit shorter of a drive for me, so that's excellent. Just a question, I've got a good buddy with a 85 CJ7 Jeep. I'm sure he'd like to come, Should I extend the invitaion or ridicule his non-subaruness?

No. Your getting hosed. I'd check wheel bearings first. Or even possibly the brake rotor backing plate being a bit bent and touching the rotor. (possibly under load becuase of bad wheel bearing letting hub shift in knuckle.) Subaru front diffs almost never have bearing failure. Not in the side outputs. Occasionally the pinion shaft bearing will go, but then you get gear whine, and shavings in the diff fluid. This is ussually on turbo or 6cyl cars too, not NA 4cyl. If you are really considering front diff work, drain and check the fluid first. If the bearings in diff are the cause of the noise, there will be ALOT of shiny shavings in the diff oil.

There should be a bent screwdriver looking tool in your subaru tool bag. This is for adjusting the rear drums/ebrake shoes.

Pull the drain plug on the trans. Mark a tooth on the ring gear, then start counting. Grossgary gave you the info. If you find that you have matching ratios in front and rear, then, it might be worth pulling the center diff section and counting the transfer teeth to see if the ratio is 1:1 or other. Sidenote to Gary.....small point about 4eat transfer gears. Rear output is direct from topshaft.....only the front is driven from the transfers and lower shaft. Although I believe they were all 1:1, it would be possible for it to be other, and have different ratios front/rear.

In 2wd the rear driveline is turning, but it is not coupled to the front driveline and recieves no power in 2wd. It's just turning because the car is rolling along. It is disconnected from the engine inside the rear of the trans. When you shift into 4wd, the Front and rear get coupled toghether and both recieve power. Do you get it? it turns ONLY because the car is rolling. The car is FWD in 2wd.

Awesome it's so close. Sucks it's in the city. I hope there is somewhere to do some wheeling? Any word on a Mudpit?

Everything I've read and experienced is that if it's a closed system, the pump doesn't care how long the lines are.

So, the OE setup has the flat piece with a hole on each side for the cables, and the pull in the center. IS this how your setup is? If so, this is what I did. Start with the handle that's already installed. Remove the left side cable from the flat piece. Now drill a hole thought the floor, and put a bolt though the hole the left cable was in. Now that flat piece makes a pivot point for pulling more cable. To make it a better pivot, I used a M8 bolt, about 2" long, with a non threaded section at the top. I put a nut below the falt piece, and then a nut on the bottom to tighten, but the top part of the bolt sticks up about 1" worth off no thread for the flat piece to pivot. Repeat on the other side after mounting second handle.

Change your plugs AND WIRES. I'll bet they are ther original 25 year old wires.

They are totally bypassable. Replace it with a "T" done. Newer models(legacies) only operate one wheel, so no "T" just couple the line straight through. You can get another from any MT GL, Loyale, XT, or even early Legacies. (legacy ones will operate only one wheel unless you drill/tap second port) They are all the same unit minus the one hole in the Lego's. To the OP Sounds like the setup you have is like our 80,81 GL's here....which didn't have hillholder. I added one to my Buddys car. To install the hillholder, you need to determine which lines out of the master are going to which wheels. Look at the master.....2 lines probably come out near eachother, from the same "chamber" These should go to the Front right, and rear left. The 3rd line comes out of the other "chamber" This line alone is the one you want. Like you said, if that is the single line, that goes into the "T" (Mounted on the frame rail? I doubt it's a proportioning valve, those are on newer ones, in the rear. It was a Just a "T" there on the 81 we converted.) Install the hillholder there. Should end up with the hillholder holding pressure on the Front left, and Rear Right.

I repaced the gear in mine. Works fine now. Don't know how long it will keep working, but it works. 32 dollars for the gear from the dealership. Subaru part # 31888 AA001

Loyale and GL's are the same cars, they used only minorly different springs and shocks. Changing them out won't really yeild any lift.....perhaps just from newer springs not saggin as much but that's not a lift. By the way....they don't make a 195/70/13 tires. Used to be able to get 185/70/13 but that's the stock tire for the 4wds. He needs a lift kit. HighGuysLifts.com That said, Conor.....9-12 inch lift is too much. Youd need 35" tires to make it look right, and you don't have the gearing or HP in your subaru to turn those. I think you would be more than happy in the 2"-4" lift range. That keeps it safe, makes fabrication easy (or just buy a kit) and you will have enough lift for about a 27-29" tires....which is as big as your EA82 will turn easily.

Nissan Z cars and others like use slipyolks because the U-joints they use don't have any slide built in. The Dual DOJ setup of the subaru axles is just fine. Like I said and showed in my above pics.......11 inches of travel. How much more do you need? Again, like the title suggests, it's the front end that could really use some travel improvement. At least the additional set of shocks and some stiff springs does wonders for the handling on the rough stuff.

Whenever the rear wheels are turning, the driveline will be turning. In 2wd it just rolls behind the car, not driven by the engine. Same would be true the front driveline on 4wd truck, if you didn't unlock the hubs. Subaru does not have locking/unlocking hubs so the driveline is hooked to the rear wheels all the time.

My "nice" EA81 car has heated Outback seats, a clarion six speaker stereo, A/C, Sunroof, Power windows, Power steering, and a folddown rear pass through to the trunk (84 4wd Sedan, 92 Turbo sedan rear seat.) As for wagons, I don't like the Impreza cargo area. It doesn't have a flat trunk floor all the way to the opening. Forresters and Legacies are better in this area, but really don't have much more room than a EA82 car. I guess they do have a bit more than the EA81's. But then we are back to the weight issue. Even an Impreza is about 650lbs heavier than a EA82, about 850lbs heavier than a EA81 wagon. That's a pretty big chunk of extra weight to haul around. And for insurance. It may vary state to state, but here in Oregon the older the cheaper. We compared liability only on my GF's old forrester, and the "new" loyale. $72 dollars saavings every 6 months. And because it's not a $5000+ "asset" we have to protect, we don't need the comprehensive and collision which is about $300 less every six months. You can't afford not to have collision on a newer car whereas the old loyale, if someone hits it, get another body and shove all the good parts in there.

We sold my GF's low mile, 2002 Forrester for $6500 and got her a really clean 91 Loyale body for $400 bucks. 4 new Struts, Brakes, Wheelbearings....2 Balljoints, axles, tierods......A new clutch.....and oh yeah, an EJ18 from a 94 Impreza with new t-belt, WP, idlers, and all seals.....later. (About $2200 total) With almost entirely new running gear, she's got a more dependable, cheaper to insure, better gas mileage, with almost excactly as much room and utility, plus a car with classic style. We put the $4000 + left over into other projects and needs for our family.

It's pin 81. Should be grounded for MT. (grounding drives the volts low. pin voltage chart says MT=0) In this case that may solve the EGR. It's almost impossible to get reid of it on 2.5-2.2 swaps in Outbacks, because all of them AT or MT had EGR. So if your using a 2.5 ECU it doesn't matter MT/AT. anyhow.....not really the case here. Also, the newly posted trick of looping the EGR port opening into the IAC hose may solve any EGR issues not resolvable with the ECU end of things.

I think you have the return line and the vent line reversed at the intake. Return line is low in the tank, and will gravity feed out fuel. Problem is, if this is an early EA, with 1/8 return line (smallest of the 3) then you need to upgrade. 2 options. 1: run a new return line, larger in size. 1/4 at least. 2: swap the return and vent lines. The vent line is larger at the engine. This sounds like what you did, although you need to do one more step. Back underneath by the tank, you have to swap the return and vent lines, so your returning fuel goes in low, and the vent line is tapped off the filer neck area. there is a hardline that runs along the side of the tank to go up to the vent. You can swap the rubber lines at the front of the tank. So for option 2 you would leave the engine bay as you have it, then swap the return and vent at the back of the tank.

The ports on EJ18 and EJ22 heads are identical. So are the valves. Quench volume of the chamber may be a hair different, but it's not even visible really so it's a small difference. It's a myth that they are smaller.

I did reread your reply. You misquoted your first sentence. I'll post it for you here: I took this to mean that you were determining that the belt was broken. I can now see another interpretation. I must say though that the way it's worded makes it sound like the determination that the belt was fine was a conclusion you had already made. Which brings me to another point. The "tone" of my response. Do you see my post count? do you know how long I've been on this board helping advise newbies on how to keep there subarus going? Do you know how many threads I've read about broken belts? I started here as a Newb too, that was in 2005. See my point? My tone is a direct one. I certainly don't intend any disrespect. I just don't want to waste my time or the posters time so I get straight to the point and I call em like I see 'em. I like the fact that this board is respectful, and I meant no disrespect. That said, I stand by EVERYTHING in my first post.

Nuetral switch for EFI cars. You can ignore. this will be the switch on the trans furthest back on the drives side. Not the one at the back, that is the 4wd. The forward one on the drivers side, a bit lower, is the Reverse lights. Green wires i believe for reverse lights. IIRC, the 4wd indicator is on the linkage in EA81, in the trans on EA82. So....If you wire up the 4wd lights on your trans, to the connector on the car, you will get a "LO" light in 4wd, and the "4wd" won't light til your in low range. That's how mine is and it's fine as long as you know what that "lo" is 4wd, and "4wd" is low.

EA radiator is fiine if it's working well. Dual 10" electric fans work great. I can tell to order 2 flex hoses with 1-1/4 at one end, and 1-1/2 at the other. Lengths 1 @ 12" and 1 @ 18~19 inches.

Just get an early EJ canister and hook it up like factory. The canister is supposed to store vapors in the charcoal, till the engine is warm, when it evaporates out of the charcoal and is fed into the throttle body when the throttle is open past about 10%. It fits almost perfectly in the EA canister location. OR.....loop the 2 open hardlines back to eachother. This will leave the EVAP hose open to above throttle vacuum all the time though, and can make for rich warmups. But, on a hot day, with a full tank, you could get liquid gas expanding and feeding into the throttle and cause a flood/no start.