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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. One of the radius rods I bent in these videos was already reinforced with angle iron. It just bent hard at the very end where it meets the mounting plate. This was meant to be a push it to the limits kinda run. I ussually don't wheel quite that "balls out"
  2. Jack up one side of car so both wheels on one side are off the ground. Put it in neutral. Mark a hash on each tire straight down to the ground. Then rotate one tire by hand, while watching the other tire. Make sure they both rotate the same amount. If you have a LSD rear end, you will need both back tires off the ground to do this.
  3. Straight water will also expend alot more and begin to bubble at a lower temp. Sometimes the combo of just water and a weak rad cap will be enough to boil over the car and give headgasket like symptoms. You can't really do good cooling system diagnosis with just water in there. It acts differently the prpoer mixed coolant.
  4. Doesn't "fix" anything. Just improves the handling on rough roads. And I am hoping it will help prevent bending control arms so often.
  5. That's not really a subaru. That's a rebadged Isuszu Trooper. And definately not a 4EAT transmission. I really do not think Subaru ever made a Dual range Automatic. It isn't needed, the torque converter allows for creeping like a dual range would.
  6. 89 builds with MT = Black top....unique to that manifold fuel rail 90-91 builds at or MT = Grey top.....unique to that fuel rail 92-98 EJ22 and EJ25D = Red top interchangable in fuel rails....although there are some differences in the tip design.
  7. Nope. I;ve got a set of 96 phase II, single port EJ22 here. They are Roller, and HLA. Honestly, the only roller follwer, solid adjuster setup I've seen to fit these heads was on a JDM 2.0 NA motor I got in a Legacy. Got those on my 2.2 right now I've heard people say that late ones are roller and solid maybe 97+? Definately after 99 but those are phase II engines totally different heads.
  8. Actually it not "turbo or non turbo" It's factory a/c or dealer/non a/c. If the a/c compressor is inboard of the alt, it factory a/c Factory ac = short pump. 105mm All others = long pump. 110mm
  9. Green wire in a single connect is constant 12v. Blue/ yellow stripe wire is Ig. Switched 12v Run new speaker wire to the front speakers. The connectors for the front speakers are under the kick panell trim each side. Pink 2 pole connectors. The blue wire is negative and white and yellow are the positive wires. Wire the rear speakers to the harness in the dash. If you wire all speakers to the dash wiring, you will have the negs of front and rear speakers tied together which will burn out your deck.
  10. Yeah, that yellow wire gets cut in the harness strip often. I think this is because the junction between this yellow wire for the alt signal circuit, that ties to the light green wire through the diode, also supplies power to the transistor, and other 12v @ engine is tied way up near the Fusible link box, nearest the alt end of the whole circuit. It doesn't SEEM to be an ECM related wire during stripdown.
  11. I just use a long hook. Look inside the pin, after removing hte first clip, and look to see the orientation of the clip on the inside, and then try to get your hook into the open side so you are pulling just agaisnt the pin. If the pins are stubborn, there is an alternate way. It's kinda tricky. 1. remove all case half bolts. 2. set crank with 1 and 2 TDC. 3. Rock case halves open and remove the accesible bolts on the 2 and 4 rod caps. only one of each is accesible with halves rocked open each way. 4. Close case ahlves toghether agian. 5. rotate crank 180 so 3 and 4 are TDC. 6. Loosen other 2 nuts accesible on 2 and 4 rod caps. 7. Remove rod caps. Seperate case leaving crank and 1/3 pistons in block right side of block. 2/4 pistons and rods in left.
  12. He hasn't swapped anything into the car. Problem is hte parts catalogs don't make the proper distinction between the 3AT models and the 4EAT model turbo cars. the catalogs are notoriously wrong on disty caps, intake gaskets, and a whole host of other model specific parts. I've eve had alot of trouble getting the right clutch and axles for EA82's and instead getting EA81 axles. Since they were both offered in overlapping years, with 1.8 engines, and called "DL" and "GL" models. the only identifier in the parts catalogs is weather it's a wgn/sdn/3-door or a hatch. my general rule is if you need EA82 parts, order them for a wagon. If you need EA81 parts, order them for a BRAT, so you won't have the EA81/82 overlap that the cars do.
  13. He can use any single port heads from 85-94. And to the OP. If you really need a head, i've got many of them. Happy to sell you one cheap.....PM me.
  14. Even so, they aren't up to the task of really dampening the force of real offroading with large tires. My secondary shock setup is inspired by Turbones T-cased hatch. It does make a big difference pounding down the trail.
  15. CLicking CV axle? Timing belt would not be affected by being in gear or not.
  16. I saw one yesterday too. Toyota badges for sure. I've seen actually a bunch of FR-Ss' and a few BRZs around town. But this car was a different one. It was black....with slightly differnet taillights and definately toyota badges. No plates on it so I don't know where it came from. Do they sell the toyota version in Canada?
  17. not true. newer models still have the green "test" connectors, and black "read" connectors. The pattern of blinking is different to reflect the OBD II #s. Although it's really alot easier to have them scanned at AZ or somewhere like that. Though it's nice to be able to clear and re-scan repeatedly during repairs. Flashing CEL while driving means STOP! Drivning in that state can damaged the Catalytic.
  18. No matter what you do to the wiring, the 02 sensor won't see a change in exhaust gasses when it thinks it should (open EGR) so it will set the code. not much to do about it but try to get a 95 or 96 2.2 automatic intake manifold. It will have the EGR valve, though you will need to tap the head for the EGR pipe or weld in a pipe to the exhaust and route it too the EGR.
  19. Gloyale

    frunt sway bar

    uh.......EA82 Swaybars front, and the few models with rear, mount to the crossmember. They comes down with everything else.....no need to make any extensions or anything. Now, 2" lift.......if you didn't drop the crossmember too it will be harder to hook up but it will still fit. If you do an even lift no problems. That said, it's fine to take it off too. You'll get more articulation...not much but a little. I think it helps handling on rough roads too. It will let the body roll more on smooth highway though. And in some states its a no-no to remove the swaybar. I have front and rear XT turbo swaybars on my 2" lifted "long hauler" and non on my 6" lifted "wheeler"
  20. Full EA82 crossmember, axles, arms, radius rods, steering, tierods, and knuckles. Only thing EA81 still is the struts. here's a few more vids: this one is me making the second attempt at the finish (after moveing a rock to get unstuck after the buggy cutoff) I make good progress but somewhere in this video is were I broke my drivers side rear halfshaft. The blazer breaks his front driveline, then crawls out in 2WD. I follow him out in 3WD. You can see clearly the drivers side wheel not spinning. I couldn't make it up this steep part from a stop, and I was getting hot, so I went to the bottom to "smoke out" for a while and cool off. Then after the cool down, the last push up and out. Exhaust sounds terrible from being crushed almost closed at the tip. You can here I think the balls and cage clacking inside the broken cup on the rear axle. At least I finished
  21. You're a bit off on the weights. Curb weight as specified in the 86 FSM for an EA82, 4wd wagon is 2495 lbs. The front end is 1350, and is rated to carry 1780 Gross (maximum loading) trade the 200lb EA82 for an 800lb SBC. That's 600 lbs added to the 1350 = 1950, so already 170 lbs over the rating.....not including all the tube steel you are gonna need to reinforce the front end with. And a 69 Chevy pickup? Well over 4000lbs. Now, back to our show.
  22. You are calling it a bolt.....it's a tube. It connects the exhaust passge of the #3 cylinder to the intake and EGR vavle. It is not for coolant. It is indeed for exhaust gasses. And if you put a passenger side head on the drivers side, you need to plug it or you'll have a very loud car. If you use a drivers side head on the passenger side, you need to drill and tap that hole for EGR tube. He can use any EA82 non-turbo heads from 85-94. Carbed or SPFI (tbi) doesn''t matter. THAT SAID..............again, where are the cracks? if they are between the vavle seats there is nothing wrong with that. The cracks to worry about are the ones in the exhaust port. Very rarely does that happen to non-turbo heads.
  23. If the hub is coming out of the bearing something is wrong with the bearing. Hub should stay pressed into the bearing, irregardless of wether the nut is tight. Hate to say it but your bearing is probably already shot. Just a question, did you make sure to reinstall the large circlip behind the bearing outer race? I've seen it forgotten and it results with this kind thing happening.
  24. Filter bypass. If the filter gets clogged, it will bypass around through that ball, so the engine still gets oil. Dirty oil, but oil. The other valve is not a bypass it is a pressure relief. Returns excess oil to the pre-pump side of the oil pickup. It's mostly needed during cold starts where thick oil spikes the pressure. Without that relief, the drag on the pump during cold starts would be alot, possibly enough to slow cranking and make hard starts.
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