Gloyale

Nothing "broken" except a rear halfshaft....and that wasn't until after the blazer broke it's driveshaft next to me on my second attempt at the finish line. I changed that out after the event and did a bunch more wheelin before drivng home. Considering my tires are 235/75/15 (29's) and the next smallest tires in the event were 33's, I am happy with how I did. I could build my subaru 3 times over for the cost of one of the Rockwell axles on that buggy. Smoke was all from either tires or steam from the radiator overflow. I was pushing it hard, running it hot. That 2.2 burns alot of oil, needs a rebuild already so I stuck it in JUST for this event to hammer the hell out of it. Ran it hard way into the red. Still runs great no overheating on the highway. go figur. I keep having problems with the front a-arms and radius rods bending. Hoping that better dampening on the front end will help absorb some of the energy from the big hits. I am also anticipating a future where a replacement EA81 front strut isn't avavilable. So I can keep running old struts for "location" of the suspension, and add the more generic shock for dampening. Here is another video from someone else of the buggy cutting in front. The group of kids shooting it make a pretty good peanut gallery. Funny comments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzhO79pwSXY

The "chk" sound sounds like a burned valve to me. Do a leakdown. it's a valve.

Is it possible youve got a busted front axle? Busted front axle will act sorta like a busted front diff. It will spin in the cup and make noise. Normally you can tell because there is a bit of a lag that before the rear wheels kick in to drive. However, if there is a bit of torque bind going on, the rear will drive right away, but the front axle will still make alot of knocking noise. Have your "mechanic" check that both front axles are still intact. For future refference....if you have to put a donut spare on, put it on the rear, move a full size tire to the front, and then put the FWD fuse in the holder up front to disengage the rear axles (the ones with the uneven tires)

Did you drive it long enoguh for the T-stat to actually open up? I've seen a few new thermostats that "hold tight" until the engine gets up to about 3/4 then finally open and work. Espescially the first few drive cycles. I would drive it long enough to amke sure it's actually gonna overheat. Not saying you DON"T have a headgasket issue, just saying that sometimes the new stats can seem a bit sticky at first.

A is before the 0 the numbers are on the B side of tdc. 87 is a wierd year. There are small differences in the vaccum routing and a few other detail on the hitachi carbs that year. The 87 FSM DOES NOT reflect these changes. I guess they didn't feel the need to update a chapter in the book that was being deleted the next year. That said, I've experienced that the 87 Carb set up (hitachi carb, denso disty) runs best at 20 degrees like the SPFI engines. Call me crazy. I set 87s to 20 Degrees......I think it's where they do best, and may be meant to be, but the "paperwork" doesn't reflect the changes. This is my theory.

Just order for Manual trans turbo car. then you will get 25 spline every time.

This isn't waht he needs Don't hack into the optical disty wires. He needs the yellow wire that off the Neg. side of the coil. Or From the back of the dash. There is no "tach" pulse wire at the ECU. It goes from the neg side of coil to the dash.

Are you sure it's not just the cable?

That thing out weights my poor little "Subacca" by 3000 l s. I didn't want to get rolled on. Hard to tell but he seemed right over me at one point. I wonder if I could have made it if I had my momentum too. At the very top I still might have been stopped, but when he came up and passed I was still moving. Thanks for the complements. Thank my buddy with the CJ-7 on 35s that didn't run. He filmed my posted the first 3 filmed

JDM Forrester XT Somewhere the part#s have been posted.

Wouldn't have got outta this without the dual e-brake handles.

Get a spare Fuel pump relay. It's not a typical round 4 wire subaru relay. The carbed cars use a 6 prong "relay" actually called a "rev sensor" or "fuel pump control unit" FPCU. It's mounted above the hood release cable.

+1

Here the video from the "winner" of the totally unofficial bragging rights only race. At the end is a really good angle of the end of the race where he and I are climbing the last hill toghether.

rebeldogx420x is his username Here is another on that someone else posted. This is about 2 mins later after that first guy cut me off. I had to move a rock to get going again, and started to make some headway....then this Blazer cuts me off! ugh.... He bounces it real high and then drops his front u-joint on a rock right next to me. A piece of his u-joint flew into my car! Right about then I think I exploded a rear axle cup. Blazer crawled out of the hole in 2wd. I crawled out in 3wd:) Couldn't make it up in 3wd from a stop on the hill, and I was overheating like crazy.....so I went to the bottom for a bit to cool off. At the end of this video you can get a good look at the big tubeframe truck that cut me off the first time.....and the tweaker co-driver in the passenger side. ANyhow.....here it is...more to come.

Yeah, I worked on a carrier plate today. Used a different bearing that sits higher in the rig. Havent made the plate yet but got some ideas of what to do. Other repairs made today: New radius rod plate blocks....double crossbraced. Sleeved and lengthed radius rods Secondary Shock set installed on front A-arms (EA81 rear stockers) Frame rail on passenger side, along with bumper and Bullbars that are tied to it, are bent........upwards about an inch. It looks like the rail bent in just in front of the crossmember blocks, so it still drives sweet and straight. I think I was the only competitor to drive to the event and back home. (50 miles each way) Thanks for the positive feedback guys! Makes hammering my poor wheeler like a anvil worth it.

Another one. last few minutes of my run. They guy in the huge crawler was hell bent on beating me (even though he started 9 mins behind and was beating me no matter what ) He had to cut me off right when I was getting my momentum for the final push. At the end I'm stuck on a rock with a busted rear axle. In the next video to come .....I have moved a rock, worked myself out, and make it out of the course in 3wd........after getting cut off AGAIN!!! such is "racing" I guess

Tie them together with the bumper and they do pretty good. I've done that to both my front and back

You don't want the pink coolant. Green/yellow standard old school coolant is what you want.

Pics!!!!

Egr tube fittings are 17mm not 22 Rocker covers will need to come off for phase II heads. Cams and rockers assembly can stay on. I personally would rent a car or carpool to take extra days to do it right. Surface heads. Seal cams, crank, oil pump oring and do water pump and timing belt at same time.

So I took my little sube to a Mud competion here in Oregon this weekend. Pretty good time. Super gnarly course, I opted out of certain obstacles but not many. Here is the first 2 videos on youtube. Other to be loaded and lots of other people were filming and sadi they would eb posting too so more to come. I sustained almost all the damage of the run on this first drop in! Twisted the driveline and ripped carrier out of its rubber but it all held for the rest of the run. This was the second series of holes. I had tettered in and out of this one twice before this video starts. Dual ebrakes working great to get me out and around when the tires are in the air! This is were the crowd starts to get behind me instead of ridiculing me. Kinda brutal and short, but enjoy.

Either way, 95 or 96 regular legacy would have a 2.2 already. I've had customers mistake which engine they have before so i'm just clarifying becuase there were not many 2.5s in standrad legacys not outbacks. 96 was first year for USDM dohc 2.5, and it was not in many cars only top tier models.

Oops yeah, i meant pressure plate bolts.

Then it was added. EA82 cars did not have a ground for radiator. Ever.