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Gloyale

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Everything posted by Gloyale

  1. Gloyale
    95 they changesd thte ALT circuit. I don't think the yellow IG. wire is present on the 95-99 Alts. To get codes from your car, look for the 2 Green connectors, and the 2 black connectors, under the dash. OBD I or II will have these. Black connectors= read memeory, Green connectors= Test mode........both toghether, = clear mode.
  2. Gloyale
    Are you adding a Water cooled turbo to this car? I thought EA81t used an oil cooled only turbo? EA82 trubo water supply comes out off the drain bolt in the bottom of the passenger side head, then comes up and under the uppipe flange.
  3. Gloyale
    Sounds about right. 3-speed auto is a gas sucker unless you drive under 60 on the freeway. Also, the 3-speeds after 84 have a torque converter that locks under decel for better control in snow and offroad. You can actually engine brake with the 3AT, with no electronics. Unlike the 4EAT, which can lockup, but requires solenoids and a computer to do it. And won't do it unless it really thinks you want to engine brake(forrester trans)
  4. Gloyale
    Key off: Disconnect ALT wires. Test you've got full battery voltage on the Main lead (big white) Don't let this wire touch ground, wrap it with tape if needed. Next, turn key on. Test black/white wire for IG. switched voltage. Now, look inside....BATT light should be off. Go back up front, and jump the White/red wire to ground. Look back inside, the BATT light should be on. If all that checks out, the wiring is good, and the problem is in alt. I suspect though, that you'll find a problem in the wiring doing this.
  5. Gloyale
    No. Because he said that ECU had a code lit all the time. This means that ECU was could be in open loop all the time. Ignoring alot of other parameters and going on a "default" map. The default map would hold a steady idle. (or send no IAC signal allowing the IAC to rest, yielding steady idle) whereas, in closed loop, the ECU is monitoring and adjusting all the time. a bad MAF, or an IAC that tries to respond but won't properly........could cause the idle to surge while the ECU tries to figure it all out. ECU is the absolute LAST thing to suspect, unless there is a problem with the CEL illuminating at KOEO.
  6. Gloyale
    Update. Alts came from Carquest. Reman $135 dollars. 3 Alts tried from same source, all same results. tried 2 known good alts from my stash, normal operation. So beware........there is a batch of bad alts out there. They will charge the car, but will trip out the ECU, and make starting difficult or cause no start at all because the ECU is trying to reset constantly while you are cranking til it finally catches and runs. Cougar, I thought AC volts too, but it does it with key on/eng off. So how coudl there be any A/C? I discovered disconnecting the BATTERY wire at the Alt stopped the issue too, so there is a connection from the big output post, and the IG. on yellow wire. Faulty design of the aftermarket "sensing" circuit? I am thinking more like a diode or a fault in the aftermarket
  7. Gloyale
    ECUs fail very rarely. I would get a correct ECU for the car. Then start following the error codes from there. I don't think your ECU is the problem. IIRC, 01 is MAF based, 02 is MAP based. this could be the ECU difference. If you are chasing idle issues, start with cleaning the IAC.
  8. Gloyale
    Check out Highguyslifts.com We make a 2" kit for your Baja (listed as 1-3/4" lift) the reason is in a strut lift only, you are rotating the arm to a new position. Pushing 1 3/4 on the mount point of the arm, puts the wheel 2" further down.
  9. Gloyale
    4EAT can be made to lock 50/50 for wheeling. 4.44 ratio with a torque converter is almost better than a 3.9 dual range once you lift and go bigger tires. Check out my HighGuys wheeling videos and HIghGuysLifts.com The Green legacy in the videos is a 4.11 auto, and crawls up the hills where the Single range 5mt cars couldn't make it.
  10. Gloyale
    I guess since he didn't say newer motor or bigger motor i just assumed. Fair enough. Modify the crossmember, and he could put in any Suby turbo motor in it. That's true with any subaru really. Anythings possible. I still kinda think he meant EA82t into EA82 car.......which is just silly anymore. Most who want to do this swap would be happier with an NA EJ. Wait......Who am I talkin to? You know almost more than anybody about this. You wrote the book and with it hooked me on EJ Swap Crack. Oh yeah, Retrofitting instead of Transplants? could this be moved?
  11. Gloyale
    90 degrees After TDC. So that's 90 past the TDC, turning clockwise from front. And as miles said, the keyway on the crank will be straight down. At this point the pistons are all in the middle of there bores. It's the same for EJ timing belt marks. Crank key down = piston in middle = no chance of hitting valves while setting belt timing.
  12. Gloyale
    Never use starting fluid with an FI engine. one backfire up the intake, and you will roast the injector, and possibly the MAF.
  13. Gloyale
    WRX sedans do have about a 1" wider track than regular Impreza or the WRX wagons. That's why the WRX sedan has the flared fenders. IDK, might work, but might be an issue too. Like I said, the sedans are wider.
  14. Gloyale
    Better off putting in an EJ motor. More power, more durable, no midification to crossmember and it will last more than 6 months between blowing HGs, or cracking heads.
  15. Gloyale
    adapter plate, Redrilled EA flywheel. Modify trans mounts Modify shifter and install D/R lever Custom longer driveline needed 2 options for axles. 1) open D/R trans, and install 25 spline stubs in it. use stock axles. 2) use custom front axles, or possibly 93/94 2wd MT Impreza axles. I would say that the one downside to this swap is you will have FWD only most of the time. With a vehichle as heavy as a Baja, you will be straining the 2 front axles alot, and you'll have alot of front end lift on acceleration. Don't even think about towing a trailer. Unless you REALLY need the D/R for wheeling, I would not recommend it.
  16. Gloyale
    Do you have the denso, or hitachi distributor(denso=brown cap, hitachi, black) I also think it could be something else. If the tach twitches but the engine doesn't miss or seem affected the its probably not the disty. More likely a dash issue. Anyhow hitachi = 85,86 Denso = 87 All 88 are FI withy the 4 pin optical. No you can't use that disty.
  17. Gloyale
    The basic Stant cheapy is NOT OE equivelant. Stant now has a line of more expensive, "excact stat" thermostats. That one is OE equivelant. More expensive, and you gotta ask for the "excact stat" line or you get the cheaply junk.
  18. Gloyale
    Actually it totally does matter. The Stanton cheapies have smaller throat, that doesn't open as far as the OE stats. That said, I think you may be getting air in the system, heats up as soon as you drive? Headgaskets
  19. Gloyale
    Cut blocks for stut top to 17 degrees. Checkout HighGuyslifts.com We have competitive pricies. And lots of options for tatloring the kit to your needs. Just letting you know There's more than SJR. If you wanna build your own more power to you, it's a good feeling.
  20. Gloyale
    Yeah, I pulled, cleaned and reinstalled the groungding bolt on the intake (behind and under #4 fuel injector) It's definately the ALT. Or at least the alt cicuit. Unplugg it, all is normal, plug it in, the CEL flashes and the fuel pump cycles randomly, unplug it, backj to normal.
  21. Gloyale
    Leak could be from the radiator hose, and then running down to the thermostat area.
  22. Gloyale
    Video of the CEL flashing abnormally. Fuel pump cycles in time with each "off" cycle of the light. sound didn't really work?
  23. Gloyale
    Are you sure you have injector pulse consistently? There is a known issue with the crimp joints in the injector pulse wires, where they run under the passeneger side carpet/rocker. White/red and white/blue wires. Just a thought. Wasn't sure if you meant no fuel to the rail, or no fuel for fire to the cylinders.
  24. Gloyale
    Do you have a pitch stopper with your lift? That could be the factor right there. Allowing the engine to lift and twist under throttle, lifting the axle, in addition to the already bad front end lift under acceleration.
  25. Gloyale
    Wheel bearings? Brakes? Rule those out at least. Could be a knock sensor?
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