Gloyale

Update. Swapped ECU today, same results. Today, I in a quieter location, I was able to hear the fuel pump cycle each time the light flashed off. Seemed as if the ECU was reseting its self repeatedly, and doing the intial startup fuel cycle each time. I checked all pins at the ECU and relay for proper voltage, all seems good. I strip these harnesses for swaps all the time, so I know each wire and where they go and all check out good. Dang, what else is tied into the ECU and IG. relay trigger???? THE YELLOW ALTERNATOR WIRE!!! I unplug the ALT connector (leaveing main wire bloted on) BAM! Check engine light comes on once with key on, fuel pump cylces only once, and when it's started, it fires quicker and runs better. So now suspects are the brand new ALT, or on an off chance, the little blocking diode between the Green ECU/IG trigger wire, and the yellow IG. on wire to ALT. Going to swap a known good alt in tommorow, and see if it does the same thing...if so, diode is likely culprit and I'll dig it out of the harnss and swap it. If it works with good ALT, then back to the store with reciept to get replacement/exchange. I'm working on uploading video of the oddly flashing CEL.

So I encountered a weird issue with a 93 Leg the other day. First encounter. Won't start, voltage kinda low, but engine cranks fine. (brand new battery and alt) HAs the "hollow" cranking sound of a timing belt off a few teeth. Reset belt, it was 1 tooth off, probably installed wrong, not slipped......not the problem. Hmmm......I check electrical a bit. Turn key on. CEL lights for 1/2 sec. then goes out. Will not go into test or read mode. Swap Ig. relay, no change, Clean connection of Fusible link supplying voltage to the IG. relay, no change. Battery starts getting really low, so we hook up cables. Let it charge for a while. Try again, now CEL lights, almost steady....or at least more so. But still is blinking on/off randomnly (not in test mode, not code flashes, I know what those are). Try to start......struggles, but eventually catches, and starts. Now before it started, the cranking sound went back to a normal cachuga-chuga and fired. Shut it down and try to start again.....now cranks hollow won't start, no CEL again. I think ECU cuts out fuel and spark signal. Try a few more times......Back to sounding good, CEL lights (but still is sketching out), Fires up good. Has fired up each time since. My question is, has anyone seen an ECU fail like this. I've seen them fail to light the CEL at all, but never seen it trip out like this. Going to try a new ECU in the car and see what we get today. I'll take video of the CEL. Just thought I'd ask the community. Thanks.

Test the fuel pressure both unregulated (straight loop from filter back to tank) and through the fuel rail with FPR hooked up. Gotta have some PSI #'s or it's just guessing.

You CAN damage the inner edge of the hub piece, where it seats against the bearing. So don't overtorque it TOO much. As haard as you can get it with a 2 foot breaker is plenty. Take a look next time the hub is off, and see if the bearing has worn a groove on the inner face. if so it will never seata right again.....throw it away and get another hub. Also, what kind of shape is the cone washer in? If your cone washer has ridges, it will catch, and not clamp down onto the axle shaft. Ussually that affects wheel bearings not axles..but??? Is your lift a full 3"? or are the strut tops taller than the crossmember drop? that can also affect things. Also, is it possible your lift blocks aren't drilled striaght? I've seen bad lifts shift the crossmember over 1/2" or so...which could explain why it's just the passenger side that keeps going out. They are somewhat more prone to failure becuase of the exhaust right under it......but 1 a year is prtety bad.

Look to make sure it's not coming out around the base of the throttle body. There is a rubber gasket under there. The "toilet bowl" gasket. it can leak coolant.

He's right. Not too "bad" for the engine.....but bad for efficiency, and horspower. You need the backpressure of a muffler to keep exhaust flow steady. With no muffler, the scavenging effect is reduced, and the exhaust flow "pulses" in and out, rather than all flowing out. It's partly because of how one side fires, then the other side. Also, no muffler is LOUD. it sounds kinda cool at first, and then gets real old, real quick. Draws negative attention WAAAY more than any positive "Coolness" factor you gain from the sound. Get a "cherry bomb" brand turbo muffler. not the hotdog, the actual muffler, made by cherry bomb. 2" is perfect, 2-1/4 works, but is a little hollow and raspy sounding. They are about $30-40 at carquest, and others.

Crusie switch is on the side of the steering wheel. It spins, and it's wiring goes through the "clock spring" assmebly. Sounds like it's bad. Or maybe just the connection is bad? Wires pinched in the tilt mechanism?

Hi to low on the fly is ok if you are ready for the reduction. When you let the clutch out it's like Downshifting from 3-1...so you gotta be ready to match the engine revs to the speed you are travleing. Brat man is right about not even needing the clutch to go 2wd to 4wd......The key is to be going IN A STRAIGHT LINE so the 2 tranfer gears arae traveling the same speed.

If the belts are correct, you've got the disty in wrong. With the crank at TDC, compression stroke (cam dots "out") pull the disty......reinstall it with the little dot on the gear lined up with the hash mark on the shaft. It should at least fire then, even if you are a tooth off. Use a timing light to set final timing. If you find you can't get it in to time, not enoguh adjustment.....you will need to pull the disty and clock it one tooth to either direction.

Do a timng belt job, and reseal the Crank, and both Cam seal. Also, replace the o-ring between the Cam sensor holder and the head. Also, do valve covers, and the cap on the back of the Passenger side head(same o-ring as the cam sensor holder) That will take care of 90% of the leakage. Only other place to leak would be the rear seporator/rear main and oil pan........which can be done in the future next time the engine needs pulled.

Code should tell you either 1-3 or 2-4, so at least you can know which side rail. That's assuming it's MPFI.....which an 88 gl-10 should be. what is the code #?

You can just unplug the 2 prong connector those wires go through, rather than cutting. Accessable by just removeing the lower panel. No need to diasmantle the column. Same effect, but easier, and you can reconnect later to sell the car.

gotta be an unmetered air leak. PCV hoses, and IAC tube double check for cracks maybe put clamps on them.

Grind the mounting ears off the shifter, and weld them back on about 3/4 of and inch further up the shaft. This will make a short shifter. this will give you shorter throws, which help if tyou are lowering the whole assembly. The D/R still becomes an issue if you drop it down more than an inch. HOwever, I really think your first thought is the way to go....It's what I did for my wheeler...... extend both the shifter rod, and the stay rod. Additionally, doing the short shift mod at the same time is still a great idea.

Yup, EJ is wider by about 2 inches

Search function there is a sticky for wheels

If they aren't rusted, the wire bail type are WAY better. more even clamping, less likely to strip threads, and won't cut into the hose at the edges or under the screw.

Any alt bracket will work for any EJ......for the ALT The A/C portion is different on different models depending on what compressor they used.......you'll need to match the A/C bracket to the compressor on the car

Drywall......LOL......yeah I'm not very good for that either unless you want a wall full of worshack blots. I agree, after you are used to them, and if you get good ones, the right size.......the sensitivity issue becomes negligible. I can feel threads and heads just fine with them on, and I can hug my kids, and wife, when they show up to visit the shop. When you do this everyday, gloves are the way to go. The cost makes up in saved time in cleanup, Fast Orange, rags and savings on hospital treatment for cancers

should be totally plug and play except for the single port exhaust

4eat ring gear rides to the far right side, pinion shaft off center. Hmmmmm..... Perhaps a 5spd diff carrier, with the centerd ring could be mounted with the ring to the other side???? I doubt it would work but hey. At least worth a look.

My guess is a bad TPS on the new engine. Throttle position sensor is the only engine sensor the TCU cares about so I' d start there? What is the engine code. That would be another place to start.

No No And yes, but no ( because the EJ crossmember won't bolt up) EJ rack can be bolted to EA crossmember with a bit of modification to crossmember. Not sure what you mean by xt6 arm is rubbing? Where? Should be direct fit to any EA82.

DON'T USE STARTING fluid. One backfire and it will kill your injector and possibly the maf. Pull the distributor cap, 2 screws, and dry out the inside, maybe spray a little wd-40 on there to prevent more moisture.