Gloyale

slightly deceptive labeling of the diagram. That's the B terminal and if it isn't, then tell me where the B terminal would be? not the line with the switch on it, that is the "S" the one above "E" is the grounded case of the ALT.

A properly working 4EAT should actually send a fair bit of power to the rear at all times. Just not enough to bind if you are tight turning in a parking lot. TCU differences over the years allow a little more or less but should always be something so you aren't peeling out in the snow or gravel. If you are getting any real wheel "spin" before the rear does anything, you're clutch packs are worn thin or the Duty C pressure is low. There is a stop sign at the end of my road. Everyday I start out slightly uphill, turning left, onto a gravel road. It's a bit blind so when you go you gotta go fast to make sure you get across and out of the way if some else comes down the road. With my 98 Forester, I can gun it and get no wheel spin. My wifes 03 H6 OBW, stab it hard and get a tiny bit of slip but really not much.....the engagement is pretty instant. I feel like both of these cars work well enough without needing lock switches. I have driven some older soobs with worn 4eats that require LOTS of initial wheelspin before anything happens. Had a GL-turbo wagon with early 4eat that would not really engage fully at all. Only when I wired in the lock switch (duty C interupt) did it work.

Proper test diagrahm. Notice the Lamp and additionally a 100 ohm resistor on the "L" wire IMG_2813 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

I'm not doing this again with you. Go ahead and advise this guy on how to fry his alt by bypassing the load. I am sure Subaru engineered the whole system wrong, and you should ignore their design and do it your way. I'm out.

No. The purpose is to disable AWD for donut tire use. Read an owners manual about using the donut spare. On your model it will be behind passenger side front strut tower. It's a fuse holder, but really it is just for making contact between the TCU and ground on a signal path to tell the TCU to go into Front Wheel Drive. It is not even actually a fuse circuit. you could jam a paper clip in there to complete the circuit, same difference no fuse action required. What I did on my Forrester was use a section of paired "speaker" wire. Spades on both wires at one end inserted in the FWD fuse holder, and then the other end run into cab to a SPST toggle switch to complete the circuit for Front Wheel drive on demand.

12v to one side of bulb, other side to L terminal. When ALT is not spinning, that terminal is ground. That is why the light comes on! THERE MUST BE A LOAD ON THE L TERMINAL. You will fry the alt if you apply 12v directly without going through a load.

I did excactly that on my XT (same chassis) used the 1-1/4" spacers from a 96-99 Outback or 98-02 Forester. Also added a 3/4" spacer at the trans crossmember too to keep the driveline output straight in the back. 1/4 spacers a the carrier bearing. requires longer bolts, and a longer steering coupler. 93 Legacy coupler worked for me.

Two ways to mdify the control of the 4eat AWD for two different needs. For maximum rear transfer for snow/mud/offroad: You install an interupt switch on the duty c wire you will get : AWD with switch closed, and maximum 4wd "lock" with switch open/interupted You can also run a switch that closes the "FWD" fuse holder circuit. This will toggle you between: AWD with switch "open" FWD with switch "closed" This is useful for running spare tire or mismatched sets of tires front/rear.

Because that's how differential work. If all roads were dirt, it would not be a problem to run locked center/4wd and locked rear axles (no differential) but since most all roads are paved, it is nessecary to have differential action. More modern subarus, starting around 08 IIRC, use a traction control which uses the brakes to stop spinning wheels which then does send power to the other isde of the diff. But that is the traction system, not the actual AWD. Seriously research differentials and why they exist.

don't do this. The L terminal (white/red wire) does get 12v but it need to come through an induced load, i.e. the "charge" lamp. That terminal is a ground connection when alt is not spinning. It becomes a source of voltage when the alt starts operating. This drives the volts high .This is the action that turns off the light. The alt basically finds a balance on both sides of the bulb that keeps the light off. keeps the volts equal from both ends. without a load in line, you have a dead short when the alt is not spinning. Could start a fire without a load inline there, you are basically creating a dead short.

At the EA ignition coil or at he EA engine harness connector (runs to the Anti-dieseling solenoid and bowl vent solenoid)

still don't understand how you could have spark on Cyl 4 but not on 3. They are paired at the coil. The igniter doesn't differntiate between the pair. It's signal to fire the coil should drive both 3 and 4 as a pair. Glad you got it fixed but I might suggest that the Original coil may have in fact been bad. I have seen a few fail in this way. Once on my own car, Spark at No. 1, but not at No. 2.

you need to understand differentials. Power goes top the wheels with the least traction. Like water, or electricity, it takes the path of least resistance. IMO, a properly working 4EAT, or a modded one with a lock switch, will perform much more closely to what the old true 4wd cars would do. The hydraulic transfer clutch can lock (as long as plates are not worn) and transfer 50/50 to front/rear. Now the diffs at each end will still send power to the wheel with least traction. 4 of course.......... the operative word being to the ground. If a tires is in little or no contact with the ground, it will get nearly all the power from an MT and half the power from an AT.

assuming equal traction at all wheels yes. But if one wheel slips only a fraction of power (whatever the Viscous center can transfer, not much) goes to the other wheels.

+1 without reprogramming or otherwise changing when fans come on, AND adding additional cooling capacity the temps will be nearly excactly the same. thermostat is there to provide a minimum heat level to keep optimum temps for efficiency and heat for passengers. Once it opens, the high limit is controled by fans, and hte cooling ability of raditor. If neither of those change, the lower temp thermostat will do nothing. The engine will prodiuce the same amount of heat, and will not disipate it any better or worse. waste of time. Just drive it and do the HGs if needed.

another reason to avoid gimmicky "performance" parts like "lightweight" pulleys and "cold air" intakes. Subaru spent millions on designing a good dependable design.........why triffle with 2 bit "upgrade" that case more harm than good. Warranty Voided on brand new car + weekender bench racing = dumb

the governor is what controls upshifts. if you replaced it and it still not shifting, then the gear on the output shaft that drives the governor is toasted. trans is shot.

what year EA81. A few early ones are externally regulated alts

yeah but it's a pain. May not even be possible with teh Legacy not having a body spacer, the corssmember is too close. Even if it works, You end up dumping oall the fluid out the back. and then you've got a 600+ lb assembly to manuaver rather than 2 separate 300 lb ones. I would definitely pull one at a time and take the opportunity to reseal the rear of the engine while they are seperated.

check the white/red wire at the alt terminal for good connection. never run the alt with no wire connected to the main output. Could have fried it right there.

popped a casting plug in one of the heads. Add water, it goes out into valve covers and down into oil. Pull the valve covers and rockers and check it out.

they need to descibe why/what in hte trans is broken. Unlikely that you need new..

90-95 dual port exhaust 96 single port , large flat on the top of head (center) Hydro roller followers 97,98 Single port, large flat w/ small rectangular notch cut in. solid roller followers 99, Phase II, single port but with cam cases, and plugs through valve covers. not compatible. FWIW, all phase I, i.e. 90-98 Valve covers are the same, single or dual port exhaust.

yes. will work, but a few notes Keep the current Forrester intake manifold and bolt it onto the Legacy engine. You will also need to swap out the rear diff and transmission computer as the gear ratios are different. Keep in mind the car may feel a little slower off the line with the taller 4.11 Legacy gearing vs. the 4.44 Forester. But you may get slightly better highway mileage due to the dropped cruising speed RPMs.

there should be 5 wires at the ig switch