Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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Oh yeah, FWIW: Welded with one axle removed til you get to the trail FTW!
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Internals of all the r-160 rears are interchangeable. you can swap any of the LSD carriers to any offered Gear ratio (3.7, 3.9, 4.11, 4.44) But the newer viscous are "inny" type, and would require a cusrtom axle to use in an Old Gen car (EA81 or EA82) input flange of the newer than 2002 models have a larger flange.....must be swapped to smaller one to use in an Old Gen.
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Well, I did get stuck going back throught the other way 20 mins later. It was hard to tell when you enter the hole, what set of ruts you are gonna be coming out the other side into
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Hope he used a thick enough headgasket. Phase II 2.5 pistons come proud out of the deck just a tad. Hopefully he used the phase II headgasket. If not, you may have a problem. The reason I know, is that we did this combo, and had to pull the engine for a broken piston top edge after about 5k miles (about 8 months)
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.020mm would be thinner than a gnats hair. would be .000784 in. Thinner than any feeler gauge. You mean 0.20 mm intake and .25mm exhaust. Translates to roughly .008 in. and .010 in. respectively.
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The Santiam mountain mud festival was held this last weekend. HighGuys were at this one, and I believe we were the only subarus there. It was insane. We had a blast. Unfortunately my clutch was weak, so it only lasted a few hours then I had to stop wheelin. Drove home 40 miles under it's own power though. Clifford, my Bro Gemini's car, did well. Although he didn't push through as many obstacles:) Sadly. This is the only real action video. Making the deep crossing to the west end. I did this early, before the huge rigs tore it to hell. I'm about 1:20 in
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I still say slide the trans back. No loss of fluids. Almost all the bolts are 14mm heads accessible with impact w/ extensions and wobbles. 12mm gear wrench for the shifter. My customers don't want to pay for new coolant and all the time unhooking lines, pumps, wiring, etc. for a clutch. Dropping trans down and back is the fastest, with less work and cost. Of course, an overhead lift and a proper trans jack help. But it's still easily doable with jack stands, a floor jack, and a creeper.
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Unbolt carrier bearing, unbolt shift rods, unbolt the trans mounts but leave the crossmember in place. Unbolt exhaust rear mount from trans. Now unbolt dog bone mount, starter, and trans from engine, and slide trans back about 3-6 inches. Access clutch and flywheel bolts from above. Trans never leaves the car, all you need is a good floor jack.
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Totally different construction. You have to use the one that matches the transfer section. Not sure if you can mix phas I and phase 2 transfers and front sections Fwiw, the phase I are "serviceable" where as the phase ii are sealed units.
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Looks like the sway bar mount has detached from the rear radius rod.
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02 has shims on buckets. 03 has selectable thickness buckets instead of shims. Either way you have to measure then clearance, then remove cams and buckets and then buy shorter or taller ones where needed. A compression test will tell you if one is really bad. Leak down will tell you wether it's intake or exhaust. You'll hear the air hissing out.
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You don't need to drop crossmember to install steering joint. Column side has a long slot, slide the coupler up onto it as far as possible, then tuck it back down onto the rack end. Make sure to set the wheel straight and the tires straight then hook it up.
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Running high horsepower through Only the front axles makes for lots of front end lift, spin outs int the rain, and Fwd type handling in turns. You say viscous doesn't slip if wheels are on the ground. Guess what? Neither does the FT. Wheels on ground you got power to all 4. Wheels off the ground, lock it up. Not possible with viscous. I have a 4.11 viscous AWD on my GL. The lack of locking center has left me needing a tug out twice now where a locking center would have driven me right out. My car will be getting a FT4wd trans with a forester 5th gear set as soon as the weather warms and the days get longer
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153? From a 95 ej22? I'm sure it runs great, but there is no way you got 153 hp.... Especially ATW horsepower. Looks awesome though.
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Any Subaru 15" rims will fit, including the steelies. 14" rims will not fit, won't clear the dual piston calipers.
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Stereo. Just a hunch. But since it has problems it could be the culprit. I fought the same issue for weeks. Upgrade Alt wiring, bought new battery, tested alt. no change, sits for 2-3 days, no start. Turned out to be the memory circuit of my kenwood stereo drawing .45 amps! hooked the memory lead to switched power instead, no problems since. I know you got the stick radio, but like I said you know it has issues so start there.
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You will have gas pouring out the vent first time you fill up on a hot day without a canister. You do need it. Hook the large EJ vent to the hose coming out of the dome in the canister. Hook the smaller line to the small port right next to the first on the canister. Cap the other 2 on the canister. Or get an EJ canister next time you are at a wrecker.
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+1 for valve adjustment. Do it before it burns. I got an 02 in my shop getting a valve replaced right now.
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Fans run on key on when the temp sensor or some ther main engine connection are bad. OR when the sensor has failed to a dead short ( thinks the engine is way over temp) I'd try a new temp switch. I'd check you fusible links too. You could have half the ECU not receiving power or getting it through a crispy link that is high resistance.
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output Stub Shaft - 5 speed D/R Transmission 1984
Gloyale replied to smcclain's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's not the bearing. It's the stubs splining and the spring clip inside that keep the stubs in the spiders. Do not tighten the bearing. It won't help. Rear diff stubs are bolted, not clipped, so they tend to not wobble so much. You problem is with the oriel lays axles, not the trans. If it wear a problem, you'd be puking oil out the seals. -
HighGuys 6 inch kit with conversion blocks for Ea82 front suspension. Rear subframe is crossbraced. You will need to buy longer shocks for rear. Ea81 body can't handle a 6 inch extension on the shock mount upper. It will rip. besides there are bolt ins easy. Rears from Chevy s-10 work or there are ranchos that work. You'll want the travel anyhow. You could leave the ea82 front end conversion til later. But it is great for better camber up front. You will need to get longer brake lines. Or relocate the stock ones out of their original brackets. Longer radiator hoses. Longer shift linkages or s spaced down with a taller stick( long throws) PM me if you have any questions about HighGuys Lifts. Visit HighGuyslifts.com for prices and email.
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Use the ECU to trigger the fans. It grounds the fan relay. What I did to have ECU and on/off function manually was to use a SPDT w/center off. Flipped one way, switch close from ECU to relay. Switched the other way, it connects to a direct ground. Center position it is off ( I use this for water crossings on my wheeler) EJ sender can be corrected to the EJ gauge using a 270 ohm resistor PARALLEL to the sender. Not inline. If you want more accurate use an aftermarket cause the stockers aren't very accurate themselves
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Make sure you don't cut out the yellow wire that feeds to the ignition module and coil, and other 12 v pos. items
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+1 Also going backwards you could be fighting significant compression.
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Good but with full EJ trans you'll need to shorten driveline and shift linkage. Lockin diff beats the pants off Viscous when you are talking snow or mud. Unless you are thrashing it around a Tarmac course, the difflock is superior to get you through the difficult stuff.
