Gloyale

Doesn't have to be a fwd EJ case. Can use any single range EJ case up to 98.

Trans is just as strong as any other Subaru 5spd. It's the clutch that's weak. Get a junk EJ 5spd, stuff ALL the EA FT4WD guts into the EJ case and bolt difflock transfer section to the back end. Use EJ clutch and flywheel. Now you got an EJ clutch, with difflock and no modification at all to the mounting. sell your adapter and flywheel or use it for a D/R swap in a wheeler where case swapping isnt an option.

Can't see pics. If you really need help, do what you can then ship me the harness. I,ll correct any mistakes and ship it back for a very reasonable price. PM me for details. Keep going, keep the faith. It will be worth it. Power is definitely noticeable.

16 valve sidekicks are known to have had gasket issue too. In fact, they often crack the heads pretty bad.

You don't have to pay to be member. Limited access for free accounts, but you can watch the video free.

The cross trek was entering all the holes at an angle. Doesn't work In a subi. If he'd have gone straight in it would have made it. Would have scraped the front skirt. But would have made it.

You are missing the fuel temp sensor, and the feul pressure vent solenoid and evaporate canister. Shouldn't prevent fuel pump running, but could cause cel.

The street car/ daily commuter 2" HighGuys lift 12k miles on rebuilt 94 Ej22 4.11 AWD trans from 96 outback 215/65/15 Nokian snows on redrilled Yota rims Rear disc brakes XT turbo sway bars front/rear 96 outback 2.2 ECU w/ obdII and working EJ cruise control Swing out spare tire mount Heated outback seats CB radio Folding fog lamps Led front turn signals LED interior lights Outback limited exterior two tone paint and badging

I've replaced the metal pump gasket. It was leaking. ( some shop had it apart and used a PAPER gasket in there!) You will need a phase I bell and torque conv. When you take apart. Pull the pan first. There is a washer behind the pinion shaft transfer gear that will fall off into the pan as you remove pinion shaft. It's a selective part to set pinion distance. Losing it is easy if you don't know it's there.

Sending units are the same unless either is/was digi dash. I believe tanks are different. But you could make it work I'm sure by modifying the rear mounting point on th car.

Use locktite removable on the crank bolt. Helps ensure it won't walk out

Surface the heads....leave the valves alone. New headgaskets, w/ new timing belt and idlers, water pump, and reseal the crank. DONE.

To get the bell off, all you need to do is unbolt it, and the dipstick tube. The seal tube likes to stick, so it takes some prying to get it off ussually You only need to take off the tailsection if you are trying to remove the pump, which requires removing the pinion shaft. But to just take a look inside the front diff, just take it off.

You need to take the pulley off, and reseal the shaft too. As well as the big o-ring and the Mickey Mouse. DEFINATELY need to have some kind of o-ring in the cam towers (reinforced last longer, but a regular one will work for some time) While you've got the towers off, stretch the springs in the relief valves a little but, it will raise the pressure at the HLA's a tad.

The phase 2 single cam 2.2 and 2.5 engines can be run using the earlier management.....just have to adapt the older harness to fit the new manifold and use the older style Crank/Cam wheels and the older throttle body. IAC is an issue, but once warmed up makes no effect.

Not worth it. Swap to EJ Miles, IU believe you are wrong about being able to simply swap wiring harness. 87 Carbed vs. MPFI use totally different harnesses(espescially if it was a GL-10 turbo with the digidash. He'd basically have to swap the entrie wiring harness of the whole car., except maybe the rear wiring. Definately have to swap entire front harness, and dash harness. Ej swap will be similar work, for more HP and MUCH better reliability, and modern parts available readily anywhere.

Do you have Dual Range in that thing? I would have thought it would do better than in that whinching video? Pretty sweet pics though, I'd love to go to that event sometime.

Forrester S should already have a VLSD rear diff. If not, get one from a 2003 or newer Legacy Outback 4cyl. Your forrester axles should fit fine. May have to swap input flanges on the front of the diff if you use an Outback one.

HighGuysLifts.com is up and running. Site is still being improved, and as of yet we don't have a "shopping cart" feature. And it's lacking pictures......soon to be upgraded. But for anyone interested, we have a list of Lifts and Prices in the "kits" section of the page. Anyone who would like info, or would like to order a kit can e-mail to Info@HighGuysLifts.com EA71, EA81, EA82, Legacy, Impreza, Forrester and Outback. We make kits for them all. GET YOUR SUBARU LIFTED!!! HighGuys!!!

Axles. Replace them, if they are OEM...they are ready to be replaced after 15+ years.

Turbo trans and TCU are specific to the EJ22t. 3.9 ratio. They have higher stall TC, extra plates in a few clutchsets, and different shift maps. Will plug and play into any other 92-94 legacy, or even up to 98 Legacy with a 3.9. But will throw TCU codes and not be happy without the correect TCU. It's definately worth keeping the Trans and TCU if they both still work. I've used a Turbo trans in a 93 non-turbo wagon.....had to swap to the turbo TCU but then was all good.

Resurface your flywheel, and have the step set to .815 Use an EA82 4wd clutch. Most suppliers have supeceded to the same parts for EA82 4WD and XT6 clutches. OEM used different, but now Exedy, Valeo, Sachs.......have all switched to the same parts for both.

Nice job. I'd say that's some very slick looking fab work with your templates and all. I had to do something similar when I added XT turbo rear control arms to my wagon( 19mm swaybar!!!) The XT arms had no bumpstops, so I had to add them to keep my tires from rubbing the wheel well lips on compression(215/65/15 tires) I also had to extend those stop plates upward on my 6inch lifted rig.......otherwise, again the wheels stuffed up in, and traveled so far up that I was hyper extending axles under compression. You are wise to replace the bumpstop, they really are useful.

Sounds about right to me. I paid about 150 for the last one I purchased. Are you sure you need a new pump? Is you old one scored or damaged? Have you measured it to see if it's within spec? The reason I ask, is that the pumps themselves don't often fail......ussually you can solve any oiling issues by resealing the shaft, the body, and the passage gasket(Mickey Mouse). If you still have valve clatter, you can reseal the Cam Case O-rings, and check the pressure relief springs in each Cam Tower. Needing a new pump is not very common.

They can leak from the head gasket too. Usually in the bottom where the oil passages are. I've seen a few that leak a steady stream at that seal, so bad you can't drive it. But I would reseal the oilpump, cams seals, crank seal, valve covers, and cam case orings.