Gloyale

Okay...this isn't a pissing contest. But there isn't any room on this one for opinions, or "in my experience" It's pretty cut and dry......any year XT. 4cyl XT axles WILL NOT FIT an XT6 XT6 axles WILL NOT FIT a 4cyl XT This is a differenence in the OUTER end. Were it goes through the hub. 4 lug vs. 5 lug is TOTALLY different. There is also a difference between 4cyl turbo, and 4cyl non-turbo axles.....this being the 23/25 spline difference. MDCC, and SkiShop, it's not your fault for the confusion, the parts stores screw this one up all the time. I'm sure they told you you were getting XT6 axles, but what you really got was 4cyl XT turbo (or 4EAT trans) axles. Just trying to keep the record straight for those that will use this as a tool later.

I don't think a 2.5 will fit between the framerails of the brat. A 2.2 barely fits, and those have smaller heads. It it will also eat the 4-speed trans for lunch. I would recommend a 2.2 swap rather than a 2.5 2005 is a hard year to convert to also....Electronic throttle body and integrated ABS computer and a few other things make running that engine standalone tough. Unless you use older managment or aftermarket.

Subaru doesn't use 3.73 or 4.10 You're Loyale is 3.9 RX LSD diff is 3.7 Some Legacies and other newer subarus use 4.11 and 4.44 You can swap the LSD carrier into any of these, by swapping R & P sets .

You cannot use the XT6 axles unless you have, 5-lug, XT6 hubs. Period. 87.5 is no different. I have 87, 88, and 89 XT FSM's....and they are ALL in agreement about this. The 5 lug cars use a different outer spindle.

Uh.... Hello... Dozens of trips from Wisconsin to Oregon and back. 2000 miles each time. That's 24k at least right there. In 2010, I went from Oregon, to Pennsylvania, and back......towing a trailer In a lifted GL. That one trip was 8500 miles. I commend you trips. But I don't think you can really declare "bragging rights" I don't even think I can. There was a thread around here along time ago about a 88 touring wagon with an MPFI engine in it that went deep into mexico and back.

That's an EA81 reseal kit. That shaft seal looks correct though. You just need the mickey and the big o-ring.

No, you just got the right axle by mistake. The parts stores get the axles for these things more mixed up than a hyper active bartender on crack. XT6 axles are DEFINATELY different, and will not fit a regular, 4cyl XT, or any Subaru with the 4x140 bolt pattern.

Shifts smooth, and helps gas mileage. Kills the tranny.

My old 86 GL headlights are getting kinda yellowish, dim. Checked the volts at the headlights....11.3 hmm. (my battery is at 14.2 engine running) So I decided I needed more lvoltage to them, and actually had time to make up this relay circuit for my headlights. 2 relays supply the positive voltage (one per side) And the other 2 each control Grounding for either high or low. This ties the bulbs together downstream of the load, mimicing the stock grounding through the column switch. This retains the "backfeed backup" where if one bulbs relay or fuse blows, it will still glow dimly, keeping you technically with 2 headlights. I figured this would get me ready to install some brighter bulbs in the future, without overloading the almost 30 year old wiring. Anyhow..here it is. The before: And the After: A bit hard to see the difference, but you can tell by the extra glare in the photo there is a difference. The night I installed them, I went to the city (Portland) for a show, and a few people flashed brights at me. I flashed mine back to show them I was on low beam already (yes, they are properly adjusted) So, I guess it worked. Now I know what those obnoxious Audi drivers feel like.

Nope....different fit through the knuckle. More like an EJ shaft on the end.

Ussually I've seen some fords that spec ATF. I even had an 83 honda civic that spec'd 10w40 engine oil!!! I could not believe it when I read it in the owners manual. Sold that car when the tranny blew up....go figure.

I forget who asked me for these, but here they are. Hope they help, sorry it took so long.

Autozone is wrong. It's not a magical know all auto guru. It's just a database that's been entered in by somebody....and they made a mistake.

You could repin....if you have a good pinout. Or get a 90/91 intake harness. The IAC issue with the 90 MT's is a pain, but you can get around it by switching the AT/MT designation pin on the ECU. Then you can use any 3 pin IAC

I do know that the White/red stripe wire at the old VR connector is the charge light wire. So if you identify which wire on the alt would serve the light function, you can hook it up. All your other warning lights are tied to the charge light, and will go out when it does.

lame

The engine needs resealed, with new Head gaskets. The knocking is probably not rod knock, but valve clatter from leaking oil pump seals letting air into the oil. That will go away with a resealed engine. So no dealbreakers yet, but.... Nothing will fix the 3spds low gearing. The national speed limit was 55 when the car was built.....it wasn't made to do 70. Gotta consider how often will you need to be on the freeway. I know driving 55 on the freeway in newyork will get you the bird at best, and killed at worst. In Oregon, or anywhere without picky inspections....I would fix it. However, you are in New York....with inspections yearly, and over regulated, expensive Mechanics......and not alot of subarus in junkyards for parts. You need to decide if this car is gonna be worth it for you. If you do all the work yourself, it would be totally worth it. If you have to pay to have it fixed (and you will have to fix it if it fails inspection) it may not be worth it. I hate to steer anyone away from a subaru, so maybe just look for an older Impreza or legacy.

One trip from California to Pennsylvania in an EA71 (78 4wd wagon).....But that was when I was 2 years old:grin: Dozens of trips from Oregon to S.E. Wisconsin in various EA82's Only time I had problems was in North Dakota in February. 4 am, -14 degrees, slept for an hour at a rest area. Wake up, turn key...no power...no lights...nothing :-\ Moisture had frozen between my battery cable and the post...efectively disconnecting my battery. Fixed that....now turns over...won;t start. Coil lead end cap had shrunk and hardened so much, it pushed the wire out of the coil socket (you'd think it would arc??) once I reseated that wire she fired right up. No other issues over dozens of trips in EA82s (oh yeah...front axle snapped once in Montana, clicked into 4wd and drove the rest of the way home) It's totally dependent on the condition of the car. If everythings in good order, you should be fine. Carry emergency supplies.

IDK, have you priced long bolts at NAPA lately? I'll bet they cost more than the couple nickles one would expect to pay for bolts.

You have to register small utility trailers in WA? In Oregon, and most "western" states you can tow either of those harbor freight trailers with no plates or regestration? Larger/heavier rated trailers DO need plates. Although I see bobcats and tractors on flatbed haulers with no tags all the time:rolleyes:

Unless a customer really wants to pay, I just make them a replacement (I have a cable crimp tool;) ) same as buy an aftermarket. These will not last as long as OE, but should be good for 5+ years at least. You have to keep the car 35 more years to Justify the cost of the OE cable But, since the OE are superior, for my own rigs, I just get a good condition used on from some newish subaru at the wrecker (or from my own pile o' parts)

His rig won't see streets or driveways....we can assume. But it's a good point, power steering would be a huge help. Uberoo, you've got an EA82 crossmember on that thing, why haven't you done power steering?

Unless you need it to fold for storage, take off those silly posts with casters behind the wheels. They like to get caught when you go into and out of driveways. And if you don't need it to fold, I recommend welding the 2 halfs, so it doesn't flex so much.

Webers are more trouble than they are worth. Stick with the good running hitachi. Spend your money on rebuilding one of the EA81s. Get a good set of plugs and wires, cap and rotor. You could do all that twice for the cost of a weber. And I wouldn't think the SMOG guys would pass the weber? So you'll be swapping it back off in a year or to to pass SMOG again.

3-4 inches of suspension lift is way too much. Your angles will be too steep. I think you mean, 3-4 inches of body lift (subframe drop). And then if you want some "suspension lift" build you strut top block 1~2 in. taller than your subframe drops blocks. You're not going to clear any bigger than a 235/75/15 tire (28") without different wheels or wheel spacers to get the tire away from the spring perches. You won't really need any lower gearing than the 1.59 reduction you've got. A true 4wd box would help alot more than a huge lift.