Gloyale

90% of the time, no covers is fine. In deep snow it could cause the belt to skip a few teeth. With the covers of, it's pretty easy to just set it back to right so it's not a huge deal. If you are doing a minimal job, or there is any doubt that you may need to get back in there....leave the covers off, so you can keep an eye on them. But if you are doing a complete T-belt job, with all seals, and a new water pump......then put the covers back on. You won't need to go back in there again for several years. Also, play in the pump rotor, before installed is normal. Do make sure though that you placed the pulley on correctly(not upside down), and with the notch lined up properly with the flat spot on the shaft.

That's for the center diff. Not the front diff.

I have to disagree. I bought 2 remans from Autozone recently for my wheeler. They are both installed, and doing great. Inexpnesive ($40+core) and they where the rare "large" 92AC joints with the 23splines:headbang: (3AT turbo car axles) I have had more issues with "new" chinese axles than with true remans. Additionally, the "new" axles from china, don't have compatible splines, cups, boots, etc....to mix parts with OE axles. They have heat scorching from poor tooling and too little coolant during manufacturing. Bottom line, is that getting alxes for these 20+ year old cars is becoming a crap shoot. I preffer the remans still. I keep all my OE axle shafts. 5-15 more years, and you won't be able to get them.

Well, I can tell you that these cars will tow 1000-1500 lbs without feeling unsafe at all. Now, the stock EA82 engine, and front axles are the weak link for that. But keep the RPMs up, and start out very slowly, espescially when starting and turning. I got tired of that, so I switched over to a 2.2 and a 4.11 AWD trans from an Outback. Along with 215/65/15 tires. Now I tow 2000lbs regularly, and no worries about axles or engine power. I do occassianally tow even more. I took an EA81 body hulk to the scrap yard. About 1400lbs of car, on a 1500lb car hauler trailer. It did fine, but I needed to leave alot of braking distance. I stayed under 60mph. Flat ground. I would not have wanted to take that up or down any mountains, espescially any curvy mountain roads. That was using one of the "dealer" trailer hitches that bolts into the towpoints, and behind in the frame rail. FWIW, I've seen the type that bolt the rear part of the hitch to the bumper. My buddy had one on a DL, and the bumper bent down while towing a ~1000lb drift boattrailer. I wouldn't recommend them. What I have done to build hitches before, is to make a rectangular, angle iron frame inside the smugglers cover, tight against 3 walls. The 4th, left rail won't go all the way to the left end of the compartment, because of the hump for exhaust. put it as far left as possible, about 8~10 inches from center. You'll have a "boxed" in section. Now drill holes down through, and bolt the reciever(like the ebay one linked, or a home built) through the angle iron frame. This yeilds a very strong hitch. My very first GL (85 GL, bought it in 95) had a homemade hitch like that. I towed several trailer loads (1200lbs+) back and forth from Oregon to Wisconsin. I later took that hitch off, and installed it on another car. Sold that one. Recently, I needed to make a hitch for my GF's new Loyale, I copied this design. Pics soon.

Best first step is to build a Relay circuit, for both the Pos and Neg wiring to the headlights. I recently built a setup, using 4 relays. Triggered by the factory lighting. The overall circuit length for the headlamps is now about 4 feet....direct from battery (fused) and a solid body ground. The light from my stock headlamps is now much "whiter" and shines at least 20-40 feet further down the road I took pics, will post them later. It's a double win too. Even if you then choose to upgrade to brighter bulbs, You now have a circuit that can handle it. Those extra bright bulbs don't like the high resistance in the factory circuit, and that's why they blow so quickly.

your #'s are off just a tad. Here you go 5spd turbo FT4wd= .871 x 3.7 = 3.2227 82 4spd D/R 4wd= .885 x 3.9 = 3.4515 And for comparison 5spd N/A 5mt S/R or D/R 4wd= .781 x 3.9 = 3.0459 So actually you would get better top end gearing out of a Stock EA82 5spd, single or dual range. And they have 23spline stubs so no probs with axles in your brat. You won't have the FT4wd:-\ FWIW, you can put 23 spline stubs into a Turbo 5spd, but you will have to split the case.

Do you have any lift on the car? that will make them wear a bit faster. Not 3 weeks faster. It's worth saying though, I've had several "noisy" remans....click and clack........and then eventually settle in.

Read my post again. I didn't say that the manual recommended it. I said that there was a hitch available from dealerships. I believe it was a Subaru supplied accessory, but I'm not positive. I just know of several cars with a certain type of hitch,(replaces tow hook plates, and has runners that lead forward, and bolt into the frame rail behind the bumper) that were installed at the dealership. I followed that with a ? Did you think I was trying to say I knew anything for sure???

Subaru specs Fuji-bond sealant for this from the factory. They do not use a cork gasket, and I would not recommend it. Just use a Good sealant....."The Right Stuff" brand works very well. There is a German product called "Dirko" grey that works well too. You can pic up a tube for less than the cost of the Felpro conversion gasket set.

Well, I'm assuming your already planning on welding the center diff, so might as well weld up the front. There was a guy on here who welded the front diff on a FWD EA82 sedan for dirt track racing. IIRC, it did better than expected....and actually would go anywhere you pointed it. Could be different with rear axle driveing forwards too. Can't hurt to try.

HighGuys also has a kit for your car. Check out HighGuysLifts.com for pricing. It's a placeholder site, while the full site is being built, but there is a basic list of kits and pricing. PM me for details.

Early GL manuals say this. However, later ones, and Loyales (same car) had a trailer hitch available from the dealer??? Obviously they can tow some. I've even towed 1500 lbs long distances in mine with no probs.....not scary. Beyond that I would want trailer brakes. I garauntee that camper weights more than 2k lbs.

I'd get a new one. You can straighten it, if the ends are not ground off. It needs to hold the extension tube securely to the TC during assembly. Once assembled, there is no load on it, so it just needs to fit well engouh to keep the extension tight on the TC during seating. Fully seated, the lip of the TC should barely protrude beyond the edge of the bellhousing. less than 5mm.

Uh..... The PS rack doesn't bolt to the engine. It bolts to the main crossmember. Mounting the PS pump to the engine could be different story. But I believe it's been done too. The only things I've needed to drill, are the spotwelds that hold the skidplate mount piece under the rack. 4 spot welds, and the panel drops out, bolts back in like an EA82 would. I had to cut some holes to put an EJ rack in an EA82, but I can't see why you'd need to cut or drill any hole on an EA81 car to use an EA82 rack. The hardlines run in front of it, under engine.....not like an EJ where the lines go though the crossmember.

Take it to a scale, and get a real weight on it. 2000lbs seems low. I'm guessing more like 3000+ by the time you put camping gear in it. Depends on how much moisture the plywood has absorbed:rolleyes:. I've got a 1973 "beaver coach" mobile, so I'm familiar with old RV construction. I pull trailers people say are too big all the time, and I'm saying "That's gonna be alot of tongue weight"......will kill your springs. Also, it's alot for the front axles of your poor little Loyale. Tow that on a regular basis, and you will be eating axles for breakfast. Not to mention the clutch. I tow close to that much with my GL.....But I have Disc brakes, stiffer springs, EJ22, and 4.11 AWD so all 4 do the pulling. A Legacy would do much better than your Loyale. Perhaps use the Explorer til you get some AWD and the disc brakes?

Took another trip last weekend in the 6" rig. Welded diff, aired down. All and all did excellent. Although it did end with my rig sustaining some pretty bad body scars. Here's some pics. bent up fender and door..........fix or pull a new one from the bonepile. Broken roofrack/lightbar..........10~20 bucks at the wreckers or some fab work. Breaking off one of these lights mounted the day before, moments after this picture in the disgraceful winching out performed by a jeep............a deep hit to the ego and nightvision. Seeing no other tracks but your own when you look back on this much beauty................Priceless This is the jeep that winched me out.....he came almost all the way up to me for the winchin'. But still I can say the Suby ruled the mountain this day.

Same rig with a few improvements for 2013. updated lights, and skidplate mounts, new turn signals, needed after the last snow excursion, getting stuck on a tree. Some new subframe/slider/reinfrocement/carrier bearing support work. Again, needed after the previous carrier mounts ripped out of the body on the last snow trip. And I finally got my long travel nitro charged bilstiens in, and the flex adjusted perfect. Drivetrain: EJ18 5spd 3.9 D/R trans Welded rear EA82 front suspension, Knuckles, Brakes, RX springs. EA82 PS w/EJ pump Dual E-brakes, front Disc brakes, rear Snorkle CB radio 235/75/15 Maxxis bighorn or Isuzu redrilled rims.

I get replacements through WorldPac. $160 for a set of 4 (list:rolleyes:) Same bushing for all 4. 2 trailing arms (short, outer arm) and 2 Swingarms (long, inner arm with the wheel bearing in it) I replace all 4 if I do them. I don't know how you'd do them under the car, or even on a lift without mostly unbolting the whole swing arm anyhow. I just take em out and take em to the press. That's just me though.

Burning coolant. Probably cracked heads in the exhaust port. Check you coolant regularly and you can drive it for a long time still.

Short head, but common pitch. M8 x 1.25 hardened. Can be replaced, but best to use hardened, and short head or grind the head down a bit. Flywheel to crank bolts have the super fine pitch.

1/4 in. drive, swiveling head ratchet with a 12mm, 6-point socket. Or....a socket ended wrench. either will allow you to swing the handle back over the bolt center, and get a good bite and pivot. otherwise, remove the intake....it's easy to reinstall. If you do take the intake off, use new gaskets, and replace the O-rings under the coolant crossover pipe before putting the intake back on.

Maybe not for the swing arm, but the trailing arm for sure. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it with C-Clamps...not in PA. The car is sure to be rusty. Remove the arms, take em to a proper press. It will be easier in the long run. And again....you should try to adjust the alignment, see if it can be brought in spec, before you bother with bushings.

At least 325 lbs. Heavier than an EJ22 fully dressed.

Cruise vaccum control is hooked to the gas pedal, at the pedal. Save the buttons, the pump (unless it's the engine vac supplied) and the cruise computer (mounted up in the dash, above glove box) Honestly though, you are better off with the EJ cruise units. leave the wiring in the harness when you do your EJ swap. You will still want the buttons from the EA.

it will definately help....you will still need to set the alignment after.