Gloyale

They are adjustable. Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the swing arm to the trailing arm. Loosen the trailing arm pivot also. tilting trailing arm "up" relative to the swing arm will result in Pos camber, and vice versa. Toe is achieved by sliding the swing arm forward or back relative to the trailing arm. Forward = toe in, Backward= toe out. It's tricky, because any movement to change Camber changes toe slightly too....so it can take some time to get it right. A few I've done, I've had to open up the 3 holes in the trailing arm to get more adjustment.....ussually on cars with worn pivot bushings on the trailing/swing arms. I posted a scan of the FSM on here somewhere, years ago.

I run a standard EA82 4wd clutch behind my EJ18 in my wheeler. My buddy uses the same clutch in his with EJ25. Don't abuse it (ride it) and it will last just fine.

Has there been any stereo work done lately? It's common for people to mistake the Red/Green wire in the dash lighting system for a ground, or some other mistake. also, the Parking switch is powered from fuse 4, and isn't tied to the interior lighting. It should still work..i.e you should be able to turn on the parking lights. Does fuse 4 Blow? If the lights will not work thru either switch, and fuse 6 blows but not fuse 4 then someone has disconnected the connection between 12v from switch, to the "off" position of the parking light switch.

That's not a realistic price for everyone in all markets. Dual ranges around here run about $150-350 And they are not always in the local yards. I'd say buy up your D/Rs now, cause there aren't gonna be many more available after about 3-5 more years. They are getting crushed at fast pace.

That would be a first gen Brumby I believe. You could lift in a similar manner, but none of the dimensions are the same as an EA81/ 2nd gen. chassis The torsions tube on the 1st gen is the hard part. It's mounted diagonally, so it's not just a simple rectangle block/drop. You have to make an angled piece with a large hole to access one of the bolt. HighGuys Lifts makes an EA71 if your interested. PM me for info.

+1 Small punch, so you don't disturb the valve seat.

When they aren't driven, the rear just trails behind, doesn't try to do walk out from behind. Just by nature the rear end can't "push" out, because it's being pulled. Also, there is another layer to the condition. Disengaged, the rear wheels aren't putting any power down to the road, they are just trailing behind, "pulling" on the rear arm bushings. When powered, thy trailing arm "pushes" into the bushings, thus pushing the vehichle forward. When the bushings are very worn and shifting, It changes the actual alignment slightly, and could multiply the effect of the "ghost walk". This same issue is actually a problem in the newer 05-08ish model Outbacks. In that case it's also an alignment issue in the rear end, corrected by different specs/bushings in late production.

Why would he need a new diff? And If he did, why couldn't he find a limited slip? There were many made, both viscous and clutch type. Not really an issue though, since he doesn't need a new rear diff.....not at all. IF it's not the tires, it's the rear alignment. I've had it happen to my car before, and corrected it by installing new bushings, and realigning the rear end. Sometimes the 3 bolt holes on the trailing arm need to be "ovaled" a bit to get the proper alignment.

I know the FT4wd EA boxes, and the Phase I EJ AWD boxes share lower shaft diameters, and I'm sure Gears can be swapped from EA FT4wd and phase I EJ AWD. Just really need to know about the Phase I / Phase II compatibility. Thanks for the responses.

EJ18 should bolt directly in. Use the 2.2 intake and wiring. If you don't have the 2.2 intake....you can use the EJ18 intake and harness....although IDK if it will "plug and play" although I think it should. You will need the Dual port EJ18 Exhaust header...the 2.2 was single port.

I like being able to use one hand to turn in parking lots. My back hurts too much for all that herk-a-jerk steering effort. I am a power steering guy fo-sho.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Clutch-Set/1984-Subaru-Brat-GL/_/N-ikfkyZ6o243?itemIdentifier=245006_448605_4121_ That's the kit you need. Careful though.....I looked this up as an '83 or '84 Brat to find it. Looking it up as an 85,86, or 87 Brat yielded an EA82 clutch set.

15008 is an EA82 5spd kit. The PP will bolt to the flywheel, but the EA81 step is not the same, so that may be the disengagement issue.

Does anyone know if the Forrester XT taller 5th gearset will fit the into an old XT turbo FullTime 4wd w/difflock box. The reason I ask, is I want a taller 5th Gear, without loosing much on the 1st gear crawling side. My current trans is 4.11 AWD from 96 outback, cable/push clutch. 1st is O.K., but could be lower....definately don't want much taller. Final drive in 1st is 14.57, in 5th it's 3.206 IF the Foz XT 5th gear will fit onto a 3.7 Turbo FT4wd gearbox....the ratios would be this Final drive in 1st= 13.1165, and in 5th= 2.7306:headbang: Yeah....that would be much taller for the MPGs. 1st a bit taller too....but should still be o.k. This would all be going into an EJ swapped 86 wagon. The thing I don't have an answer on, is how similar are the shaft diameters, shift collar diameters, etc....from the old FT4wd, to the 2nd gen, pull clutch type AWD trans in the Forrester XT???

Larger tires in the back would make the back "push" more. Check the condition of the rear trailing arm and swing arm mounts. The rubber bushings can shift moving the rear wheel alignment.....if the mounts have shifted outward....this will cause outward toe on the rear wheels....another contributor to the "pushing" feeling. Alignment of the rear wheels can help, but replacing the bushings is usually the only full solution

100-200lbs behind the rear seatback could help in the short term. After that, I'd say align it. The alignment should be done with out the additional weight. Unless you are planning on having that much weight in the car all the time. There should be zero toe out on the rear wheels, and they should be thrust aligned to the front at when the suspension is in normally loaded, regular driving level.

Rear end alingment Those years are known for this issue. It's called the "ghostwalk" I believe they changed suspension bushing in the rear for the 08+ models....but the 05-07s have the issue, many from the factory. Try adding some weight in the rear. A change in the stance in the rear end will change the rear camber and toe a hair. The more the suspension is pushed down, the more inward toe. (likely you have outward toe in the fully unloaded position).

Don't have a part # 82 and earlier 4spds use a 200mm plate and disc, with 7/8th in. input shaft. (21 spline) But 83, and later EA81 4spds came with a 225 mm plate and disc....still with the 7/8th in. inputshaft (21 spline) EA82 4wd 5spds use a 225 mm plate and disc, with a 1 in. input shaft (24 spline) Sorry for hijack....just answering ?s

Yes I have. VLSD installed on a 90 Legacy, 3in lift, 235/75/15 tires through a D/R 5spd. One would swear it's welded when you see that car wheel. Chirps rear tires a hair in dry parking lots.

The VLSDs work EXCELLENT for snow. And FWIW, I've seen as many fail to "locked" as I have seen fail to "open" states. Even the Center VLSD can fail to locked.....yes, manuals do get torque bind sometimes.

That's pretty beefy. I don't think that's a Subaru made bar....aftermarket or converted from some other application. Does it block the highbeam lights?

Happened last year to a buddy of mine. 6" lift, EJ22-no covers, in very deep snow belt just jumped a few teeth and he was stuck.. Had to fix it where it sat. Fortunately the warm radiator kept our our hands warm while the wind and snow whipped around. This was on top of Mary's peak with 2-3 feet of snow and still falling, and the sun going down. Covers in the snow for sho!

You guys need to move down south about 200 miles.....and I'd be on every trip. Uh.....make sure you bring Walker Valley and all the other good wheelin down with ya when you come.

All my rigs took a crap in the milage department lately. I think this years winter blend gas we are getting here in the northwest is terrible. My GF's loyale with an EJ18 otherwise totally stock, is only getting 24-27 My 86 GL with an EJ22, 215/65/15 tires, and 4.11 AWD......I get about 19-22. Both cars did much better this summer.

Well, again, that "loyale" ('86 GL actually) is my "street" car. 2" lift, 215/65/15 tires. (less than 26") Now my bigger car has 6" lift, and 235/75/15 tires. that's what I'm takin up today:brow: I'll bet your Toyota has even bigger tires than that. My point about Indy vs. Solid front suspension would be more apparent if we were talking about rigs with the same size tires. How would your yota, or any other solid axle rig, do with a 26" tire??? Probably not as well as a sube is my guess. Those are some awesome pics. And I'm not denying the general awesomeness of toyota trucks. I'd love to wheel with ya some time. I'm just sayin'