Gloyale

It's just a supplement. I have it. Covers the differences in the Turbo models. Alot of info, like body wiring for everything except the engine, Suspension, Transmission info, clutch info.......is in the 83 FSM this supplements. If you are working on an ea81t, it's gonna be worth having. But you are gonna need something else to guide you through all but the engine stuff.

Nope. Hydraulic transfer clutch. No duty cycle though.....either full pressure(4wd) or none(2wd) It's possible a duty cycle driver could work on the 3at......the question would be "why?"

Not sure about damaging anything. With that setup you'd have a slight rear power bias......might be good for drifting:brow: Perhaps run some slightly worn down tires on the back, and brand new up front?

It's all about the weight. In the snow, it comes down to traction(surface area and compound) to weight ratio. If you have enough traction, and little enough weight, you can ride up on top of the snow. Independent suspension helps too, because when the belly starts sliding, the wheels will drop down deeper. A solid axle plows into the snow and digs deeper until it is supported by the snow, and then the wheel won't drop any further.

Chevy's not a dually. Extra cab though. Heavy rigs in deep snow are screwed when they slide sideways. I took the Jimmy many many hard hits to get him out. They broke both Cast tow horns off the front end, and many tow ropes. My self and others showed up with heavy chain. We wrapped the chain through the crossmember and the blazer wailed the bejeeeeezus out of the chain til he finally came out. Once the chain whipped back and smacked the Jimmy tailgate, knocking off it the GMC logo and a big chunk of crappy bonbo work. I sat far back and watched. It was ridiculously funny. I'm really glad nobody got hurt. Tires on my Sube= Hankook Hakkapelita Studded 215/65/15

It will.........with an EA82 5spd trans swap. not with 4spd.

It's getting harder top find the right clutch sets for the Later 4spd cars. 83+ models have the same small input shaft, but a larger Disc and PP. 225mm as opposed to 200 on the old ones(7.25 vs. 8.25 in) This is why an EA82 clutch set will bolt right up to an 83+ EA81 Flywheel. You will need to make sure you get an EA81 clutch set of the larger type. Just make sure it has the smaller hole in the center of the disc......the parts people are getting alot of stuff mixed up on the old ones now.

I've got some diagrahms in a service update for 1982 when that Cruise type was introduced. I also have a sedan outside with cruise. Can't do it today.....But I will try to get some pics and scans up for you.

You got an EA82 clutch set. The center hole is too large to engage the input shaft of the 4spd. 21 teeth vs 24??? or sokmething like that. But look up the part #......that's an EA82 clutch. If you take it out now, before it spins too much.....you can save it for when you swap in a 5-spd

Arriving at the top The first time this Jeep was stuck. I pulled him out. The Chevy over the edge, right at the top parking/turnaround area that caused all the holdup The second time this Jeep was stuck (I let someone else pull him) And the Chevy still stuck And 2 more from about 2/3 of the way up, in front of a cool waterfall.....that you can't really see in my crappy Cell Phone pics. Sorry. I backed up into some virgin snow to illustrate how much snow there was. It was even deeper at the top.

Well, kinda. I'm sure this doesn't hold a candle to Colorado or even the Oregon Cascades......But for the Oregon coast this was ALOT. I say was, because as I write this, much of it has melted already. This is the road to the top of Mary's Peak....tallest mountain in the Coast range. 4100ft. or so (road only goes up to 3770ft) Took my "street" '86 wagon with the snow tires, as opposed to my lifted '84 with mud tires and true Chain Chains. It was about all the 86 could handle. After a certain point, the body was dragging quite a lot. I didn't air down....Should have. All in all I'd say I faired better than most of the Jeeps, Chevy's and a Toyota. BTW it's a EJ22 and 4.11 Legacy AWD. http://s209.beta.photobucket.com/user/Gloyale/media/1218121357_zpsc63c6087.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

Well, doing the math for the turbo 3AT I get this, Front final drive is 3.454545....... Rear final drive+transfer reduction= 3.4533333..... So it seems it would actually give the rear and a veryslightly taller gear, so pressumably a bit of rear bias to the power split. And it seems that this setup was used at least until '86, Just looked in the FSM. 3ATs also have a reduction gear beforeeither the front diff and transfer gears. Either .974, .933, and 1.026 For turbo/non and 2wd/4wd etc.....too much to list all that. Now let's get back to the 4sdp. In question. All I can find in my books say the 4spds use 1:1 transfer. SO........ Front diff=3.8888... (35/9) Rear diff= 3.9 (39/10) In this case, the rear is slightly lowerratio.....so a tiny bit of front bias. Sorry for the hijack. I forgot what this thread was about. SubaFreaks Super Bad MTF Monster Sedan. Can't wait for MOAR PICS!!!

Something is not right. I'd like to see a picture.

The triangles will be different too, to match their respective bracket. I would think if the 97 engine came without a compressor, it would not have come with the triangle. So you should only have the one off your car. Use the 96 Vertical bracket, the 96 compressor, and what should be the only triangle you have. Should be all the stuff you took out before swap. If that stuff was all there before you took it apart, it should all still be there and work. You shouldn't need to source anything else. It's worth noting the triangle mount is sometime tough to install. It really helps to use a 1/4 ratchet with an extension to sneak under the AC bracket. Install the traingle to the compressor, before fastening the 14mm bolt to the head. If not that bolt head will be in the way of the other bolt.

See above for wire color correction Yup, pull the connector, insert a jumper into the Black/white wire in the connector and run it to ground. Turn key to on, and see if the charge light comes on. 89ru, that is a newer model ALT diagram......although the Charge light, "ALT 1" circuit is essentially the same. Same fuse #15 supplies power to dash warning lights.

Not sure what you mean by "flat is flat"? none of the gaskets are flat. They are all molded rubber. It's only 5 grommets per cover, 10 total. Spark plug tubes seals will seep oil into the wells, but not much... Cover leaks are ussually from the lower edge/corners, and from the lower grommets. I'd replace the Gasket and Grommets. Spark plug tube seals could be reused. I know sometimes the kits come with them, sometimes not.

Fuse # 15, 10 amp. in the inside fuse box Also inspect the connection of the White/red wire at the alt (smallest)<<<<<<OOPS!!! I'm thinking EA here. test the bulb by turning key on, and grounding out the white/red wire....this should light the bulb. If it does, the system is fine and the culprit is the ALT. If not....problem in circuit (fuses, bulb out, wire disconnected) EJ The car in question here uses a Black/white wire for "charge" light. Larger gauge than the yellow wire

Sil-Glyde FTW:banana:

80-86 use a 3.7 rear end 87-94 use a 3.9 Wait, I already said that. dooooh!

Ironically, that was probably helping the situation. Because it leaked there, Exhaust gasses and bubbles in coolant escaped, and no pressure built up, so coolant still circulates. When you close the system, the pressure builds, the bubbles are trapped, and the coolant stops circulating when too big an air pocket builds up. I've loosened that screw a hair to limp home severely blown headgasket cars. It works, until you need to fill the system again.

Have you checked the 10 amp "charge" fuse in the fusebox?

Just a guess, but from what I've seen it could be from seeping spark plug tube seals allowing oil into spark plug wells. Run daily, the oil warms and runs downward.....staying at the bottom, below the ceramic away from the wire connection. Let it sit, oil wicks up between the ceramic and the rubber sleeve, up to the metal tip, inside the spark plug wire end. Grounds out the spark and causes misfires. This can be excacerbated in cool, moist conditions....where condensation accumulates with the oil. (milkshake mist) The only times I've seen the flashing CEL have been for water or oil or both in the spark plug wells.

You lose more from the winter gas blends

Charge light excites the field. Alt-2 circuit is tied to Ig. circuit to ECU through a diode.....some sort of self shutoff, and this Switched 12v is the reference voltage for alt output. newer models no ALT-2, charge light does it all.

the 3rd, 4th fixed gear is a collar on the lower shaft, with the speedo drive grooves in the middle. It can be pressed from the lower shaft. The upper shaft 3rd/4th gear and synchro set also press off the shaft. The thing to remember is whatever component gear you swap on the upper shaft, make sure to use it's match on the lower shaft