Gloyale

No hole in head for exhaust to come through. Open pipe that would be suck in exhaust, instead get's routed to suck from intake when it opens.

That's a shredded 5th gear set (fixed/driven) minimum, replace the gears,the synchro and both of the main support bearings immediatelly behind 5th gearset. good news is, 5th gear can be swapped. 1st, and 2nd cannot, as the fixed gear is on the input shaft.

True I can confirm that from my 1981 4spd manual trans supplement to the FSM. I believe it's all 4spd's, not just the 1st gens. Cause? 35 tooth/9 tooth ring&pinion in the front diff. 39 tooth/10 tooth in the rear diff. Subaru's reasoning????IDK Additionally, Early 3AT Turbo, and possibly other 3AT trans use a 3.454 front(38/11), and a 3.7 rear diff(37/10), with a .933(42/45) 4wd transfer gear WTF )

I ussually just do the 4 main bearings. 5 with a D/R, and all the seals. unless there is obvious damage to anything else. runs about $350 from the dealership.

yes, early models 85,86

Same heads different cam/rockers

Use the brackets and compressor original to the car

somewhere between. In park the fluid is not far above the pan

burnt out bulb. Won't charge properly without it for field.

EJ18 uses same heads with EGR port on driverside. use the EJ22 cam and rockers.

take it for few drives and burp it. might clear up.

Replace at least 12" back up that wire whatever alt you use. And you may want to add a new wire as suggested directly to the battery (remember to fuseable link it at the battery) either way definately if upgrading to 90A alt and using extra lights/subwoofer or HID lights

If it's SPFI, it needs the signal pulse from the disty before it will run the pump. Timing belt is ussually the culprit.....are you positive they are good nothing is seized or striped? After that i would suspect the disty. if not disty then ECU Also, be sure that it is indeed an 87, and not an 88 or after. If it's a true 87, the disty plug will be round. You will have to splice the round connector onto the newer disty. Match them color for color on the Disty side. Then on the harness side you need to swap 2 wires in it's harness side mate. The green and white wires IIRC If you swap BOTH from an 88+ you can leave connector as is.

Bummer. I've had a few stripped hubs too. Often a tightening will get you a few more miles. On the other hand, I have to say, I've never had a lick of problem from re-drilled rims.

Not surprising. Every car company is building "fake subarus" now Look around the industry, and everyone is making all-wheel drive, unibody, independet suspension, utility wagons. New Nissan Pathfinder = The newest Wanna be Outback No surprise that they wanna follow the next big thing subaru is 20 years ahead on.

"Sources we’ve spoken with at both companies have confirmed that for the time being, both the Subaru BRZ and the Scion FR-S will come with only the naturally aspirated, 2.0-liter inline four; it’s rated at 200 hp and 151 lb-ft of torque." Did Car and Driver just call it an "inline" 4cyl.??? Makes everything else in the article a bit suspect if you ask me.

Yeah, but opens up the use of VLSD's from newer Outback and Forrester and WRX. I've seen the VLSD rear in action (coupled to 5spd D/R and EJ25 in a '90 Legacy) And they do work very well. The 30 year old clutch type LSD's are mostly all worn out by now. Besides...you can always weld whatever diff you run:brow:.

EA81 rack input shaft is short, and has the big ragjoint yoke on it. Doesn't fit into the hole on the EA82 crossmember. Anything can be made to fit with cutting/welding/modifying....which I am a fan of. I was saying it won't "bolt up" directly. Go for the whole front crossmember. Then if you bend a radius rod or A-arm, replacements are easy to find. The wider stance totally corrects the Geometry and yeilds superb camber compared to stock. Plus longer axles mean the possibilty for more articulation. Also, Even though it's wider....I'd swear the EA82 setup yeilds a tighter turning radius.

What car with which engine and fueling setup? I've seen this issue in Carbed cars swapped to EJ FI. The return line is very small, and comes into the bottom of the tank. Full tank(above the vent in fillneck), plus pressure from evaporating fuel= no where for the fuel to return to. Ussually simply popping hte gas cap off, and waiting 5 mins gets it working right again. If this sounds like your issue.... and you've got an EA82 body car,......I recommend installing an FI gas tank. Solved the problem in my 86.

If you had your dash out for the EJ swap, check the "manifold" junction, where the line connects to the HVAC system. It's just to right of where the drivers right foot would be, kinda on the side of the whole HVAC box.

One word: Loctite (Or a good quality RTV like RightStuff) That way even if you can't hold the crank super tight for perfect torque, the bolt will be unlikely to vibrate loose.

I used the whole EA82 crossmember, Radius rods, axles, hubs and brakes. with EA81 struts. The way miles describes, you are basically just changing out A-arms and Knuckles. You don't get the geometry benefit of the wider stance/axles. It's super easy with a lift too, because you can just make your lift block with EA81 spaced holes up top, and EA82 width holes to bolt to the crossmember. Also, EA82 power steering racks are plentiful and cheap (compared with EA81) The EA81 manual rack will not bolt up to the EA82 crossmember, so you will need a PS pump, or a manual EA82 rack.

Oh yeah, that's bad. Probably just the bearing is bad.

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