Gloyale

You actually need heads from a 90-98 EJ22. 90-95 if you want to stay dual port exhaust. EGR passage can be drilled and tapped in any of these heads, the catch however is that only 95, automatic cars had the EGR equipped 2.2 manifold. So if you want to keep the EGR you need that manifold. The car will run fine without an EGR, just throws a minor code. Still runs closed loop.

One side dot up, the other side dot down. The 2 cams should always be 180 from each other.

Swap the 2.2 intake wiring, and throttle body onto the 2.5 manifold. Hmm..... actually......99 DOHC 2.5 from a Legacy GT should actually be plug and play into a 95 Legacy.

Is the timing belt slippery and slick? Sometimes that can cause it to slip over the pump. Can be made worse when the cogged idler starts to fail. to test radiator flow: Remove radiator, remove fans. Take the radiator to the bathtub. Stand it up on one end, and run hot water through it. The water will fall through any open tubes. Feel each one to make sure that all are getting hot to the touch. If it's even, then the radiator is flowing at least to some extent. Honestly, it sounds like it could be as easy as a radiator cap issue.

From teh factory, the 2wd struts are definately longer. Not just the perch....the whole thing is longer. This is because the mount on the trailing arm is low, right behind the wheel stub. 4wds, the mount is shifted up, above the axle. Now what we are seeing here, is that KYB, Monroe, and others......are deciding it isn't worth producing 2 different struts for a quickly obsolete platform. So they split the difference, and make one strut now. Problem is, when you split the difference, and then put those on a 4wd car.....you get a lowered front end, and slightly raised rear end.

No And no. And for $5 bucks, how can it not be Chinese? I don't damage them. And they are correct for type.....but.......they don't have enough good grease in them. That was my statement. Grease them and they seem adequate. However, if you're gonna go that route, you might as well get $20 Koyo, Japanese bearings like came from the factory.

They don't have enough grease in them for automotive application. And what they do have is crappy grease in an already crappy chinese bearing. Every cheap sealed bearing I installed as is, has now failed. You can use them, but the thing to do is to pry the seals out, pack them with good high temp grease, and then reinstall one of the seals to each bearing. Then drive them into the hub with the "open" sides facing inward, toward eachother. Add a bit of grease to the area around the spacer too. Not filled though, it needs to have an airspace to expand. This seems to work out pretty well so far.

Some EJ discs have larger springs in them. These larger springs will rub against the tops of your Flywheel bolt heads. I have no way of distinguishing which are like this by model or type. But I have experienced it. Best to test fit first. With the flywheel installed, put the disc flat against the face, and try to spin it......check that it isn't hitting any of the boltheads.

You had a switch for oil light in there at first. Must have been from a DL model with no gauge. Now you have a proper sender for the gauge. But your needles deflection is off. Take lens off dash, turn key on.....carefully adjust needle to Zero.

I've got a stack of non-operational EA82, SPFI ECUs. Replaced 3 this year. The Fuel pump driver circuit actually fails commonly. There was a board member about 3 or 4 years ago who actually documented replacing the power transitor on the board to fix it.

You sure no fuel? No fuel pump operation? or No injector pulse. Can you jumper the Fuel Pump relay and get the pump to work? If not check pump ground. If you have spark, you should have injector pulse. Ivan, there is only one sensor in the disty of EA82.

No LED on the ECU means at least part of the circuit board isn't getting power. Or that the ECU isn't working.....Might try a different ECU.

The ones mounted under the car? On the rear suspension tube? Those are to protect the CV boots from spraying gravel.

Around here they are plentiful. But any that "ive seen "under 1000" or for scrap price are worth just that. Most need alot of work to get back to a reliable state. And then consider the OP in this thread is NOT around here.....and first Gen Legs where he's at are likely WORSE than the ones here. Why isn't OK for this guy to just simply fix his car and drive it? Why is it nesecary for him to buy another car?

Uhh....... replaceing the car is gonna be alot more expensive than tossing an driven gear on the governor and getting back on the road. That's like getting a sex change because you need a hair cut. 1990 Loyale. A brand new Governer gear from subaru is about $25. Stick one in and get your car back. It'll be years/ 10's of thousands miles before it may have an issue again.

Blame Ford and Firestone. Ever since the Explorer rollover recall case, the Big brand tire shops use that as a reason to have to sell you an Excact replacment. I mean, it was nice of subaru to spec such a good tire.......but as we all know......a tire rated for 112mph would be just fine;) Funny enough I ran into this issue with my old 85 GL turbowagon. It was in Wisconsin, the car was so rusty I didn't drive it on the freeways, or anywhere over 45MPH (I delivered pizza with it in winter to save my other Sube). Tire place would not sell me a tire that wasn't "H" rated. Even though there is absolutely no suspension differences (except springs) between turbo/non EA82 cars, Subaru still gave the turbo cars a "H" rated tire. I had to take my rims in off the car, and have a cheaper tire mounted, then take em home an install on car.

5K + or nothin:headbang:

Pony up for the bearings. runs $40-$80 dollars. Or if your like me, and have an EA82 street car, put the brand new bearings in that, and use the old ones from it in your wheeler. After the third time driving through flood waters in as many months last winter, I decided to just start reusing old bearings for the Wheeler. Of course I have stacks from changing out bearings on EA82s.

Red and Red/green wires in the radio connector, and everywhere in the dash almost.......are the lighting wire. Red 12v Red/Green --Dimmer control voltage

Careful.....I believe that it's the interior lighting wires that are Red/Green. Green wire by itself is Battery volts. Ig. switch is the Blue/yellow. You need to seperate the front and rear speaker wiring. This is what I recommend. Run new speaker wire to the front speakers (pink2 pole connector in each footwell) Blue is Negative......white or yellow is the positive. Then hook the back speaker outputs to the wiring behind the radio. Rear Right + White/blue Rear Right - Blue/black Rear Left + Yellow/white Rear Left - Blue/red

ACV not needed, but without restriction the system is running really lean. There are orrifices in there that meter down the air....the ACV used vacuum to open and close the passages for maximum efficeincy (i.e. ot leans out or close the Slow passage during Main operations/cruising) But it's possible to leave the air bleeds open to atmosphere without the ACV, but it needs a bit of restriction to get the mixtures right. My guess is your running really lean.

Responded in your other thread. Swap is actually on the ECU boards, swapped pins 17 and 8. Workaround is to rearrange the disty wires.

Key On/Engine Off Body side of harness voltages: Red wire from pin 7@ECU - 10v or more (power supply) White wire from pin 17@ECU - 4v or more (Reference volt) Green wire from Pin 8@ECU- 4v or more (position signal) Black/Red wire from pin 20@ECU- Ground to intake. Now looking really close at the Diagrahm....it seems there are 2 completely seperate ground paths for the ECU, from 2 Eyelets bolted to the ECU at different points. One of them, is the ground path for the disty, throttle sensor, and a few others. To be clear about the the wire swap...it's the White and Green wires, of the Body harness of the car that get swapped.....leave the disty pigtail itself intact the way it came off the car. And only swap those wires if you are using a disty from an 88+ in an your 87.

Do the Check engine light, and LED on ECU come on? Disty is turning correctly? just to clarify. I have ECU's if you need them.

Clogged Primary Main passage. Possibly other places too. First, Remove the drain bolts on the bottom of carb. Then, looking down the barrels you will see brass jet/emulsion tube. Sometimes you can clean them out with carb cleaner and compressed air without removing the top of carb. Otherwise, disconnect the return spring, choke link(tiny cotterpin), and accel pump linkage.....then unscrew the top, and fold it back. Take care to move the wiring around carefully out of it's clip, and not tear the wires. Then the emulsion tubes can be unscrewed, and thoughroughly cleaned out. 4 in total. Blow out the passages while they are out. COVER the accel pump barrel and weight to keep the plunger and ball from blowing out when you hit the emulsion passages. The carb does'nt need to come out to do this...and it takes care of 95% of the hitachi's driveablitly issues 99% of the time;) Dang......I really need to do a youtube video of this.