Gloyale

I somehow feel like you are exagerating a bit here. however That's great for you. But it's not a realistic representation of the market value of these engines to the average cutomer, in nationwide markets. I buy alot of engines as well. I deal with reputable, interstate, automotive wrecker/recyclers. The last 2.2 I bought, out of washington, was $650 with a $75 core. That was last month. I can show you the reciept. And I get Shop discounts average Joe don't. And as for warranties. You must install all new waterpump, timingbelt, thermostat, and radiator (and have radiator flow tested, with reciept) in order to even think about returning it for warranty. I haven't had any "fail" completely....but several have been oil burners.....something that a rebuild won't do. Durability. 25D bottom ends are junk.....48mm journal, steep rod angle. Won't hold up to high revs like a 1.8/2.2 bottom end will.

That's normal for US cars. Canadian cars have another hose there, to operate the Fresh/Recirc control we didn't get in the USA:banghead: Looks like you got it.

I think you need a new check valve. It's supposed to be built into the reserve tank under the hood, but sometimes you need to add another one.

Yup. Any EA81 or single port EA82.

I think someone put some gas in between the fill-ups you didn't know about. There is no possible way you got 52 MPG out of an EA82......not possible. Espescially one with over 200K miles and 30-50 PSI compression.

Still needs an orifice unless you installed the tubes and ACV (air control vavle) that where used in the OE setup.

That's the way to do it. And yes, you do need to remove the inner joint first. You have driven out the rollpin, correct? Undo the swaybar links, and the 14mm bolt that the control arm pivots on, and the knuckle will swing out nicely.

Park on a hill to get air out = True Touring wagons longer = False, they are taller roofline...not longer. EA82 coupe longer front end than regular coupe (ea81?) = true....if that's what he meant. EA82 coupe windshield is raked steeper, and 1 inch longer.

Feedback carbs used wide open air bleeds, with duty solenoids to restict them down for mixture adjusment. You've removed the duty solenoids....so now the slow air bleed has way to much air. You need to restict the slow air bleed with an orifice. Front of carb, smaller of the 2 elbowed ports on the top of carb. I'd use a .5mm orifice to start, and get smaller from there if needed. But that is the size used in the Non-feedback setup.

If your new disty is from any other year besides 87, you will need to swap the position of the Green and the White wires in the disty connector. 87 only, the signal and reference wires are reversed at the ECU......but it's easier to swap the disty to match the ECU, rather than repin the ECU connector.

No. This thread was about a carbed disty. You have Fuel injection, which uses the Optical Pickup type disty. Have you checked that the rotor screw is still in place?

No. your fine. Like mentioned above, they are the same.....but individual knuckles, in a "free" state can have varying diameters. But they are indeed the same.

What year was the donor XT? And which disty are you using. the reason I ask, is because in 87, and only 87, the refrence volts and signal volts wires in the distributors are reversed (actually it's the pin at the ECU that's reversed.....but swapping wires in the disty is easier than at the ECU.) SO......try your original distributor.

I've used the divider resitor in mine. When they get hot, the gauge goes almost to the red, and is way higher than normal so it's easy to tell. Mostly I've used a 270 ohm resistor. However, on a recent swap that was inadequate. Using a 47 ohm resistor placed the gauge in the correct range. Not sure why that one was different? Any guesses? As for your car.......105 C = 221 F Definately getting warm, but not "overheated". I would want the red zone to be over 230F so I wasn't worrying every time I climb a steep pass. At any rate, do you think a similar modification like yours could be made to an Analog dash. Would it be the same?

+3

It takes a few more bolts than that. Sway bar links? And pulling the axle back through is a pain, often requiring removal of the brake caliper, disc/hub, and outer seal to get an edge to pry the axle end through. Especially hard with new axle/ new bearing. This also exposes the bearings......and occasionally, the inner bearing will come out of the knuckle, stuck to the alxe. So there are definately benifits to not fully remoiving the axle. especially if you aren't planning on messing with wheel bearings. It is definately possible to reboot the axles with them installed on the car. A couple cans of carb cleaner (not brake cleaner, it will swell the bearing seals, and the rubber boot on the caliper, etc...) With all that said, I would recoommend doing the wheel bearings too, and going for the full removal. If not planning on doing bearings.......your plan of rebooting on the car will work fine.

You can also get to it by removing the tray (or cover) to the left of the steering wheel. Then shove your arm straight in there.

Access to the TC bolts is under the throttle body. I recommend a 12mm socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet with a swivel head. Or even better is a "socket ended wrench" wrench with an open at one end, and a swiveling socket head on the other (instead of the box) Either way, use a 6 point...and make sure you get a good bite before turning. the TC bolts are short heads, so easy to slip if you don't get a good bite.

I about spit out my coffee reading this. Are you kidding? I rebuild 2.2s all the time. Polish the crank, hone the bores, have the valves done and the heads surfaced. That's about $300 right there, cheaper if you do the hone and valves yourself. Now add another $250 in headgaskets, seals, etc... That puts it at $550. That's $100 cheaper than a used engine. And it's BRAND NEW! Use that $100 towards new t-belt. Junkyard engines are a crapshoot. Subarus last along time, but not forever, and I am sick of installing used stuff only for it to have problems next year. If you have the skills and time (which the OP does, the engine is already apart:brow:) it is a way better option to rebuild. Easily economically viable. Also, there is just a great feeling driving a fresh engine, you built yourself.

Gen II legacy is 1" longer in the middle section. Still fits fine. I have used a full 96 exhaust on as 91 wagon. It fit fine.

Not they are the same. They fit the knuckles the same. mounting to the tophat is a bit different....I think you the EA81 has a nothced hole, while the EA82 has a round hole.

Napa they can look it up in there industrial/equipent catalog. I've had to wait a day to get them, but they have 'em.

the thing that will tip them off will be the evap canister line. Doing this swap leaves you with an unused tube at the front, passenger side of the intake manifold. (97 canister is in rear, 95 up front) But, aside from that, they may not notice......if they do......tell them it is a 97 engine and all the emmisions equipment is still original. I think the key will be not volunteering too much information.

Spacing is the same as the Auto trans mounting points on any EA82 chassis. Doesn't need to be an XT6

Again, there has been an open diff in there the whole time. The drum wasn't TRYING to turn at a different rate than the axle inside it. Put a welded in, and the hub will be CONSTANTLY trying to spin at a different rate than the axle. (unless you only drive straight) With this setup, you are basically relying totally on the axle nut to hold the wheel on. Except that the axle nut is supposed to clamp the cone washer down to hold tight. Without that happening, you are really relying on just the cotter pin to keep the axle nut from spinning off. You really want to put your life and every driver around you in jeopardy trusting in a $.50 piece of tin to keep you safe???