Gloyale

I've had 3 EJ22 engines with the later type. Pressure building, pushing out coolant from resevior, Heater blowing cold while engine overheats. It can happen, not just to 2.5s.

I would inspect the hoses from intake tube to IAC, and from IAC to the thottle body. Idle Air Control valve. IIRC, it's located on the passenger side of the intake. About the size of a sharpie pen, with a couple tubes, and a purple connector.

They don't lock.....ever.... The center diff is a Viscous Limited Slip. It will grab and transfer some power, just a hair at first and then more as it heats up from slip...... But it never fully locks. So if you are super stuck it's not a true 4wd. The autos are better for this, assuming the transfer clutch is working (they do seem to wear out eventually) The thing I like better about manuals in the snow is decelleration via engine braking.....i.e creeping downhill in gear, rather than riding brakes.

+1 That's what I always use too.

Pull all the wrist pin plugs. remove the outer clips. Now look all the way thoughthe holes in the block....see something.....the holes go all the way through both cylinders! If you are careful, you can squeeze a dowel or punch past the rod of the "up" piston, and tap the backside of the pin on the "down" piston and just knock it straight out. Rotate and repeat from the other side for hte other piston. Use a long dowel or punch.....but it needs to be skinny......not much thicker than a pencil. it takes a touch of angle, so make sure you aren't gonna wedge it in. Wooden dowels are great for this and cheap from the hardware store. I used to use a slidehammer and a hooked bar......still do for EA's But with EJ's it's just easier to knock em straight out through the opposite hole.

No..... you'll end up lifting the front, but lowering the back. 4wd fronts are longer than the 2wd fronts (factory, some aftermarket they are the same now) But in the back, again because of the different mounting locations on the swingarm, the 4wd shocks are actually shorter. Installing them on a 2wd car will drop the rear end big time.

You got it backwards. 4wd shocks will lower a 2wd car. The 4wd cars, the mount is higher up on the swingarm, so the axle can go underneath. 4wd rear shocks are shorter than the 2wd ones. You need to get 2wd length shocks or your rear end will be sagging.

Even Better!!! True 4wd

When I moved form Oregon to Wisconsin for a few years, I bought an already rusty 85 GL-10 Turbo for a winter beater. Saved my nice rust free Subarus for summer trips. Seems like you have enough cars that devoting one to a winter car isn't a bad idea. A 95 legacy from texas, started in the salt from here on out, will not really show real rusting signs until 2020 or so. By that point, it may be old enough to sell and get another. My point is either buy a dedicated beater, or pick one, drive it in winter.....it will last many years before the rust really sets in.

With the hub loose enough to spin, it means the cone washer isn't locked down. It has worked OK until now because you have an open diff in there. The only time it really tried to slip was in 4wd. Now, if you put a welded in, and the hub will want to spin on the stub much more....pretty much constantly with every little turn in the road. You will find out quick how it will wear. This means the wheel bearing won't have a proper preload on the inner races. And the cone washer isn't clamped to the stub. Both these things mean eventually the wheel bearing will get trashed, and likely the splines on the stub axle will wear out. Also consider that large nut and cone washer are the only thing holding your rear wheel onto the car....especially with drum brakes (discs, the caliper kinda holds the disc from slipping off, kinda) Do you really want to risk your safety and the safety of others on he road around you? If you don't want to get a little muddy.....You shouldn't be going to places you need a welded diff to get through;)

Well first off that's an '80 And I would say the car did well. Passenger compartment totally intact, engine submarines under. The only thing that failed was the seatbelts. I almost think that was intentional. You see the foam piece mounted on the outside of the windshield? Primitive data logger for face through glass impact force.

Nah.... Once properly seated, it won't need messed with again until you need to take it off. I'm telling you......at $16 bucks a pop, I've saved over $1000 bucks over the years, all with the help of a simple $5 file. You guys are overthinking this one. But it's your time and money, so do what you like.

It varies state to state. Some states do have "roadworthyness" inspections..... in heavily populated states in the eastern U.S. They check for rust, beacuse thy salt the roads heavily in winters. And if your crazy mad max modified rig causes an accident.....you're insurance probably will limit what they cover. They will claim "unsafe modifications" were done, and that since they didn't know about it....they won't pay to cover damages.

you don't want your axle stub being used as the bearing, know what I mean? That part isn't supposed to spin in there.......if it does for too long, it'll trash the spindle to the point that a good hub won't fit on or engage.

Chances are the crank is trashed too, and will need more than just a polish. It'll need ground, and fitted for an undersize bearing set. It's also possible that loose rod swung around and damaged some of the webbing in the middle. won't know until you pull the pan and split it. Hate to say it, but I wouldn't have too high hopes of a cheap fix. Rebuildable sure, but it's gonna need at least the crank machined, and probably the deck surfaced. From the sound of it, your buddy was floggin that engine pretty hard, surely not for the first time either. Are you sure you want that engine????

I've got a Turbo XT hood for sale. I'll give you a good deal if you can pic it up somehow. PM me.

I totally disagree about the cone washer. Very careful few moments with a file will make it 100% functional. It's about the angle and the wedge factor. You can carefully remove the lip from the cone washer, without removing the original face material below that line. This allows the cone washer to seat all the way down into the hub, without catching. Again the trick is not removing face material from the small end of the cone washer, so the part that is seating into the hub is still a perfect cone. Proof is that I've never, ever bought a new cone washer. 15+ years of Subaru. Literally 100's of axle nuts removed and reinstalled. Occasionally, one will be so bad I'll chuck it, and grab another used one, clean it up, and good to go. We here in the Norhtwest take it for granted that ever town has a dealership, and they still can get parts for 20+ year old cars....the cars are still around here. Go to the Midwest, South, or East Coast, and there a not dealerships all over. Some states don't have any. Buying a new part for a car that old, just isn't an option in every part of the country. Reusing whats there is just what you do. And it works fine. I never mess with the Hub. If the Hub is damaged, it gets tossed (or becomes a wheel redrill template;)

This is my recipe for an NA engine with no other mods. De-burr the intake ports Polish the exhaust Match port openings to intake. Done. Unless you are adding new cams, you don't want to change the flow rate of the head drastically. And, as noted with an NA (espescially SPFI or Carbed) you want rough texture in the intake ports. If you open up the ports too much, you can actually end up with slower air velocity at a given RPM, and you lose the bottom end power. If you are adding new cams......then carve them up like a Christmas Goose. If it's turbocharged (or supercharged) then polish the intake ports like a mirror.

You need to check to see if the 15" wheels will fit around the brakes on the '09. They may not fit.

Doesn't seem like piston slap. Piston slap ussually is bad when cold, then goes away when the piston warms up and expands. Are you sure it's not valve noise? That is a solid rocker setup. Needs adjusted every 50k or so.

You can reuse old cone washers if you grind off the lip around the edge, and grind the outer face flat. You are definately gonna need a new hub if the axle has spun inside it.

Doing one side on;y is fine. You might want to do wheel bearings and maybe the ball joint on that side too while your in there.

permit needed to cut trees? nevermind, $10 bucks, got it.

I have seen too long a bolt used for the caliper before. They stick out far enough to rub against the rotor. Perhaps the bolts are too long? Have they been replaced with new ones ever? You can check the rotor for signs of rubbing. Otherwise, I say again, lube sliders.

Likely the vac line to it is disconnected. so the switch never trips.... "fixed value" It's on the passenger side strut tower.