Gloyale

87 GL-10 would be MPFI, probably turbo. Oil in disty wouldn't affect magnetic pickup of old carb distys. He's having problems with the "magic eye" type......oil blocks the light passing through slots. Could be worse, could be a Nissan KD24, or an Isuzu gas 2.6.....they use the same disty guts, mounted sideways coming out the head. They have this problem very often.

Uh............there is no way a sticking advance is causing his car to shake under load. Espescially when you consider his car is SPFI, and doesn't have a Vaccum, or centrifugal advance. this is an Axle issue. Axle binds as it rotates, and tries to lift the Engine and Trans up off it's mounts.

Most of them have a drain hole for water and condensation. Mounting it upside down may cause it to fill with water, and eventually crap out. Moving the mount below the bumper is fine, but the winch should be upright.

He's getting oil INSIDE the disty, not weeping out around the outside of the shaft. You see, oil is supposed to be wicked up around the spinning part of the disty shaft, to lubricate it. In this case, the oil is wicking all the way up the shaft, and past the seal inside. It is possible to remove the shaft from the disty and reseal it (in theory, don't know where you'd get the seal) That said, I agree with Turbone that it's probably a PCV issue. If your PCV isn't working properly, Boost pressure will push oil out all kinds of places.

EJ22T auto trans is 95% identical. However there are a few internal differences. (# of plates in clutch packs, higher stall TC, stronger springs in the accumulator pistons) As long as everything trans wise is matched, it will work fine. i.e. Turbo trans, turbo flexplate and TC, and turbo TCU. If you are keeping the NA trans in your car, just use the old NA TCU, flexplate and TC too. As for engine wiring. There is one more pin used in the ECU connector. (Boost pressure solenoid) Also.....Crank and Cam sensor pin location is switched on the Turbo ECU. You could run the turbo ECU and engine off of the stock harness. A few pins switched, and a few new wires run. Otheriwise, get the whole harness from the Turbo car and strip it down.

This is very different than a diesel. I think you have an axle issue. Shaking under load = CV axle on it's way out

Make sure that the caliper can slide on the pins as well.

Code 7 is a model designation- SPFI, 49-state, Auto trans. This means no stored codes. (white connectors) Codes 11 and 13 are for Cam and Crank sensor (same sensor in EA82;) ) These generate when you use the green connectors, key on-eng. off. Since the engine isn't spinning, ECU thinks there is no signal from disty. These are known as "ghost codes" that come up often during testing. If the car runs....there is no problem with the sensor(s) I'd say change your Plugs, Wires, Cap, and Rotor. Loose timing belt will not throw a code....although it can lead to running a little rough...but not big loss of power. If it's sputtery, and slugish probably Plugs, cap, etc..... Although a new fuel filter and a bottle of injector cleaner wouldn't hurt. 137k is pretty low miles.

This just isn't true. 4WD models don't even have any "emmissions equipment" attached to the carb. The only thing that the Hitachi carb "needs" is the ACV, which supplies air to the Slow and Main Air bleeds. And that can be replaced with a "T" fitting, as long as you keep the proper oriffices from inside the lines. It's there to supply clean, filtered air from the aircleaner to the bleeds.....rather than have the air bleeds open to dusty air from engine bay. The rest of the lines go to EGR, Disty advance, and Evap canister and solenoid.......that stuff can be deleted.....although there is no real reason to. But the Hitachi will run fine without that stuff. Hitachi carbs get bad rap......mostly because most people just don't understand how carbs work, and get frustrated looking at hoses they don't understand. You are all welcome to send me any unwanted Hitachi carbs.

If you pull the Idler and Tensioner off, you will see that ther is a Ball bearing pressed into each pulley. Both use the same bearing. You can buy the bearing for about $5 a piece. I got mine from carquest. Just knock the bearing out of the center with a punch and then take it to the store to match Definately worth during.

This is correct, because all the rear driveline parts rotate during normal driving.....they just freewheel as the car rolls, not connected to the front drive.

Glad you fixed it. Although, I'd like to point out that your understanding of the ALT cicuit is a little sketchy. There is not a positive and negative terminal. There is a Charge wire, a Signal wire(stator) and a "charge light" wire(Field) I'd suggest reading up on ALT theory to get a better understanding.

You've got low voltage at the stereo. Likely an ALT issue. Maybe not the Alt itself, but the wiring. Check the condition of the big white wire to the fusible link box. Also check the ring that connects that wire to the ALT. Battery terminal connections and cable connections to engine and body grounds are another suspect. Make sure they are all clean and tight. Scratch that perhaps. I checked the manual, you got colors wrong. Green is Battery power, and Blue/yellow stripe wire is the IG. Switched power. The Yellow/white wire you connected to should actually be the Rear/Left + signal to the speaker. Red wire is + wire of the stereo backlight dimmer system. Make corrections before you blow your new speakers and deck.

Ignore the "ditch this". You need that unless it's missing or broken keep it. That was left over from someone I was trying to help with a broken one i believe. Or I was on crack.....IDK.

I highly doubt there are many intact carbed GLs in the yards in PA anymore. He needs a proper diagrahm. I may have one on my photobucket. Here's the electrical at least.

I'm glad you have a good handle on the work involved with properly fitting OB tophats into first gen LEG and IMP. It is very difficult to get the top centered properly to spread the load into the body, and keep camber and caster correct. The way you've done it is better. Using The LEG hats and springs will work, without clunking if you put a spacer in between the hat and the nut. There is a step on the OB struts rod that prevents the LEG hat from being tightened fully without a washer in there. Not really......First gen LEG and IMP are 99% identical chassis.

Sure you have. Both those lights come on at startup as a test. They are all connected to the charge circuit. Brake light can come on without the charge, but the charge light will always be accompanied by the brake light. Seemed to start working again because after sitting a while, the tensioner cools off, and frees up a bit. Drive for a while and it heats and seizes again.

H6 engine are known for a seized Idler for the serpentine. There are actually 2 idlers. both are the same. Expensive to buy the whole part......but cheap to buy just a bearing to fit into the pulley. I'll bet 20 bucks that's the issue. Actually, that's the only engine issue I've ever seen from an H6;) they are tough.

Use Phase I, pre-96 heads was I believe his suggestion. That's the typical "frankie" combination. What's the engine going into? Then decide which Heads and Mani to use.

This can be dealt with by looping the 2 lines that would go to the front can, to each other. (front can manifold in rear can car) A rear can manifold in a front can car???? IDK.....but that doesn't seem to be the common way it worksout. Ussually the other way.

Lights only get brighter with revs, if you have low volts at idle, or high load on the circuit at idle. If your alt does this it's probably wearing out, or there is a high resistance in the charge wire. If they are bright all the time, and it starts every morning, things are good.

Spend the money on a valve job instead. with almost a quarter million miles, I'm sure the valve seats and faces have some wear.

Use a Computer that matches the harness and intake. 90,91 Legacies, with Manual trans had a 2 wire "open only" IAC (single coil) Auto trans, and all later legacies used a 3 wire, "open/close" type (dual coils) I would recommend using a 92 ECU, harness and intake if you can find it. This would let you use an IAC from any 92-98 2.2 or 2.5 Also, the 92 fuel injectors interchange with the 2.5 ones.....90,91 don't.

Test the Circuit this way. Disconnect the "T" shaped connector, then with the engine running, apply 12v to the White/Red wire in the connector. The Charge lights should now be off. Light goes out = fault in Alternator. Light stays on = Problem in circuit Your hatch does not have an external VR. Last year for that was 81.

This engine will now be an interference engine. The 99 pistons aren't notched properly for the 90 heads. It'll work but make sure you use a new belt, idlers, and waterpump.