Gloyale

2 rubber caps on each side of the tool hatch (smugglers cove) cover the 4 bumper bolts. I don't think you have to remove the bumper. You have to for install to insert the nuts w/tabs onb them into the framerail. But for removal, just unbolt the hitch from the bottom. 3 or 4 bolts at each side where the old recovery hooks were, and one big one at each end on the leading straps that go forward up to the framerail. Now if you want to get the nuts out of the frame for reinstall, then yes....4 more bolts to remove bumper (and 2 10mm bolts at each corner for the skin, but those are ussually rusted/ripped already.)

You still have to pull the dash.....just not the fender. The OBD II strip is a little easier. I'm not sure the difference is so drastic as GD thinks but........ OBD I Impreza harness is the easiest of all....but I digress. OBD II has a downside though. More sensitive to codes.....Will rev limit for certain codes like VSS. Also Rev limited to 6k rpms even with no codes. I am looking for a way to reflash the ECU to get rid of that. My EJ22E w/ JDM 2.0 heads + cams, ported and polished........comes ALIVE at 4500, and then starts to REALLY make power at 5500, but it's so close to the limiter that it sometimes stumbles before I can shift. Know what you want, and the differences between systems.

I just installed an EJ18 into my GF's new Loyale. EJ swap FTW!!! That engine sat in the car, outside, at a Junkyard for 3 1/2 years at least (that's how long I saw it there) Fired it up and it purrs like kitty. Still has a miss under load, could be the old plugs I haven't changed out yet.....also still no exhaust or O2 sensor so that could be part of it too. Anyhow.....I guess my point is, why not give it a try? worst case it will burn a bit of oil and smoke. If it does, then re-ring it. Bottom end should still be good with 48k miles, so no need to split the case.

There isn't supposed to be sealant needed there. Can't see why it would be bad, other than clogging the oil passages and HLA's. Just an FYI, that it's not needed. I wouldn't do it unless I was fighting a motor with chronic TOD.

Soobiefreak85 If you can bring the car down here to Corvallis I can tune the carb for you very reasonably (depending on what type of beer you bring:brow:) Just give me a heads up when you wanna come. PM for my phone # and Address.

Fast idle screw only controls just that. How fast it idles when the choke is on. after the first ten minutes of driving, it does nothing. no effect on mixture, or changes to air bleeds. You could remove the whole choke/fast idle assembly and it would still run great. This is the last adjustment he should be worried about, unless he's having a cold start/ driving issue.

See this is what I mean. You don't know what emulsion tubes are. You don't understand carbs. Do yourself a favor, and check out a carb theory book from the library. You'll never get it right till you understand what it is you are doing. read my thread in the carb tech section for a bit of an explanation of how to remove the emulsion tubes and clear them out.

Have you opened it up and blown out the Emulsion tubes? If not, you should. In my experience, all the hitachi issues trace back to clogged emulsion tubes and jets.

Daredevil1166 hit's it on the head. One side could use a wedge, otherwise it's a bolt in.

Nope. The EA crossmember won't bolt into the Legacy body. Not correctly anyhow. In fact you've got the EA crossmember bolted to the EJ stuff backwards. You don't need the rear or center pieces at all. You don't need an EA crossmember. You need a front EJ MT crossmember with 2 holes drilled for the EA mounts. Done.

If you are gonna Hone it, then might as well split it and do the bearings too. Otherwise I'd leave it alone and just see what it does. Get another 2.5 shortblock to rebuild at leisure. The only reason I'd hone and re-ring it, without doing bearings would be if you KNEW that the shortblock smoked/burned oil. Otherwise it's just gonna bump up the compression and strain the bearings more. Rod bearings in the 25D are small, weak, and known for issues. In my opinion these motors, and all 25Ds should be kept under 5500 rpm.

This looks like a setup for putting an AWD EJ 5spd in an EA82? What you need is the front portion of an EJ crossmember, drilled to accept the EA82 (D/R) trans mounts.

you'll need a Manual crossmember. Automatic one bolts in further back, and is flimsy.

Any Chance you remember which white plug? Was it at pin 4 of the round one at the back of the dash? Or the 2 prong one that the dealer installed cruise control uses that's up above/behind fuse panel area? IDK if you have factory or dealer cruise. Probably dealer since the FSM for 87 only has a cruise schematic for Digi-dash, MPFI cars (GL-10's). I'm guessing that you need to tap the signal at the 2 prong connector up above the clutch pedal area/ behind fusebox. Find the dealer cruise wiring by starting at the brake switch, and follow the loom that is smaller, seperate, and wrapped in a slightly different tape. It will junction with the VSS signal wire. trace it from there up to the 2 prong connector and tap your EJ wire there.

Don't forget the adjustment. 2wds are a manual adjustment. Square headed bolt sticking out near the bottom of the backing plate. Sometimes has a big rubber cap on it. Back the adjuster all the way out, install new brakes. Then after it's all toghether, with wheels on, support the rear in the air so the wheels can be rotated. Spin the wheel while screwing in the adjuster (it has detents every 1/4 turn) When the wheel starts to drag on the brakes, stop, and back off 1 detent. repeat for other side.

nope It's 4 IDK......I am thinking you've got the wrong wire hooked up to the VSS signal. Where did you tap the VSS signal? And What color wire/which pin of the EJ harness did you hook to it?

Almost any EJ pump will fit. Newer ones have remote resevior but will still work if you get the resevior and it's mount. Early legacy (90,91) use a smaller mounting bracket to the engine....so if you use one of those, you need to get the mounting bracket with it.

I screwed a "Euro Junior" cupholder right down to the dash. Like the one in Turbone's pic, but screwed to the flat spot in the dash. Works great.......I can drive like I want to, and it stays put......just gotta have a lid and not be TOO full or else it can slosh out a little bit. I have Dual E-brake handles, so no room in the center. Plus with dogs, if my coffe is down low, the dog hair and dander gets into my cup.....yuk.

They work fine without "emmissions" stuff. What they don't like, is when you remove the Air Control valve that feeds air to the emulsion tubes. Those are the 2 large lines that looped into the UFO looking deal. Those lines have metering orifices in them. If you cap off those lines, you get rich mixtures, and poor or no idle. If you leave them wide open, you get lean mix, high idle....but no power. What you need to do is "T" those lines toghether, and hook them into the airbox. Each line needs to be restricted down to about a .5mm orifice inside. Taking out a perfectly good carb, and replacing it with off the shelf generic "weber" won't make the engine run any better. It's still a carb, and requires tuning........and most importantly, an understanding of HOW a carb works.

The EA81 radiator is fine. If you want to be super cool, have the inlet/outlets changed to 1-1/2 in. diameter to fit the EJ hoses.

You're in limp mode. VSS not hooked up is the most common culprit with these swaps. That is one thing that I do not like about the ODB II management. The OBD I ECUs will run to 7k+ no matter what's wrong.

MAF hookeds up? PCV hooked up correctly? Oil cap on? Any of those things can cause an unmetered air leak.

on the rear of the trans, passenger side, is the lever that the cable attaches to. pulling the lever forward will move the 4wd engagement collar inside the trans. With a 4 inch lift, you also may be able to remove the inspection plate above the 4wd engagement. 4, 12mm bolts on top. With that open you can see what's going on using an inspection mirror.

Same 4wd engagement internally. Just operated by a cable instead of a lever. Sounds to me like the 4wd engagement collar is not engageing all the way. Or is broken a spinning free. Is there any noise when you have it in 4wd?

The quick way to tell if you are 180 out is with the dots on the Cam gears. At compression stroke TDC, the dots on the Cam gears will be "up and out" from eachother. Meaning the Pass cam, the dot will be 45 deg. left of top. The drivers side, the dot will be down, and 45 degrees right of the bottom. This is were the disty rotor should be pointed at #1. If it's wrong, or if you still have the disty out for any reason, there is a trick to install it. With belts positioned as above, align the dot on the disty gear with the mark on the shaft and drop it in. This should get you right on. If you're at TDC on the intake stroke.....the dots on the cam gears will point diagonally inward towards eachother.