Gloyale

1 and 3 are on the same side....Passenger for the US.

With the external regulator, if I remember correctly, It's a White/red stripe wire at the alt, but it goes into the VR and out as a different color to the charge light. So you will need to jumper a wire to the regulator connector. To find the Charge light wire: Unplug the VR Turn key on Hook a test light to ground lead to a good ground Probe the connector at the VR while someone watches the chargelight. When you get the right wire, the test light will light up a bit weak, and the charge light will light inside. Hook up the BW EJ alt wire to that wire at the VR for the charge light.

The light is engaged by movement of the 4wd shift fork in the end of the trans. SOOOO if the light is on, then the Vac solenoids, and cable are working. To test it for sure, engage 4wd and try to turn in a tight circle on gravel. You will here the tires binding and slipping in the gravel if it's working. Grossgary......4wd Mechanism is at the REAR of the trans. I think you are thinking of the Hi/Lo mechanism at the front. Single range doesn't have that.

Buy the kit, and carry it in the car with a few tools (don't forget the 22mm socket) For myself, I;ve got a whole belt kit in my car. I carry an extra tensioner, pre-compressed and held with a pin.....so I can do the whloe job on the side of the road. All used tensioners and belts......ones that still have some life. Of course that's on an EJ18 in my wheeler, which sees submersion in mud regularly, so it goes through alot of idlers and belts. Don't be like me......change your belt.

Seeping Headgaskets on the phase II 2.5 Once they've been replaced, properly with the new gaskets, they are great engines.

97 Alt shouldn't have a yellow wire. All it needs is a charge light. Black/White wire to the White/Red in the EA chassis.

they have small alignment pins in them. Perhaps they didn't drop all the way into the crossmember holes?

In this picture, you can see the front of the engine seems centered. But the throttle body is off to the drivers side a little. Perhaps you've got a bad trans mount and you're tranny isn't sitting straight? I've done alot of swaps, and never had to make a pitch stopper offset like that. (except for EA81 body cars, which have the mount offset in the unibody) Not that it's a huge issue....the car will still run great I'm sure.....just curious

Why is your Pitch Stopper angled like that? Centerline of the trans and engine is not lined up with the centerline of the body?

Probably not the starter. They just don't go bad. Contacts in the solenoid if anything. (about $10-20) I'd say first check and clean your battery connections. It could also be in the ignition switch....occassionally a relay needs added to the starter system. Very common in 80's 'roos, and now the 90's ones are needing it too. The Ig. switches get worn and can't conduct enough amps anymore. But yeah, before anything else check, clean, and/or replace battery connections and cables, at both ends of the cables.

I think there are still roll pins. But as with all 4EAT autos, the stubs will pop out of the trans.

Thinking about it now.....I'm pretty sure only the Crank wheel is different. It really is just a timing belt......take off the belt.....slip the crank gear off, slip the new one on. No NEEED to change tensioner or idlers, or even the belt......except that if your in there and can afford the parts its a good idea. But to just "git'er done" and running, the crank gear is all you need to swap.

My money is on swollen from brake cleaner or other solvent. Nothing else to do but get a new one.

The "back-up" ring can be reused. But here are the Part #s for both Backup ring - 11070 AA000 O-ring - 11071 AA000 These are old numbers from an '85 factory parts catalog. They may supercede to a new stock #s. Should be able to order from any subaru dealership.

A week or two to change a timing belt? Are you kidding? It can be done in about 2 hours. You'll spend more time screwing around changing ECUs. And I'd be weary of plugging random ECUs into your car. Some of them use the same connectors, with different wiring configurations. You could end up shorting something out. We have all told you, use your cars Intake, Cam and Crank gears, and ECU. Anything else is a crapshoot, unless you spend alot of time researching ECU pinouts.

Just swap the tailsections.

More like 4 inches of track width. (compared with similar offset wheels) Each front wheel on my EA81 wagon, with EA82 front end, sticks out about 2-1/2 inches past the body. EA81s came with a deeper offset wheel standard. So when you compare to an EA82 with the same wheels on it the difference is larger than on 2 stock vehichles. Subaru specs EA81 = 63.8 inches wide overall EA82 = 65.4 inches wide overall No specs are given for track width, just the body.

More work. Even harder and more critical to get perfect spaced holes. You have 4 new studs per wheel, and the wheel will try to center to each studs. 4 maybes pulling against 2 certains. Rims can be drilled 3 times. If you screw up a hub, gotta get a new one. Redrill the rims and use flat side of the nut to clamp against rim. centered every time.

When you drill them, use a bit just large enough to fit over a stud. Don't bevel the redrilled holes. Use the flat side of the lugnut against the rim for the 2 redrilled holes. Mount the wheels by tightening the 2, factory, beveled holes......then tighten the flat shoulder nuts against the 2 redrilled holes. This will center the wheels propely.

I think you've got the wire looped over the throttle cable.

The clips are gonna break. Heck, most of the screws will break out the captive nuts set in the plastic. just be careful, do the best you can. If you can manage to get a few of the screws out nicely, you can reinstall with a fair amount of adhesive, and they will stay. I had to do it to mine. You are gonna have to buy a roll of butyl tape anyhow. Use a pinch of that stuff at each of the clip holes, and at the bolts. That will seal the holes, and hold the trim down. "The Right Stuff" sealant also works well for a few extra beads of reinforcement. I did mine this way last year, and they are still holding on fine. I drive 100mph regularly.

Bump for some info on Brown's???

Do you have a pitch stopper installed? If not, the engine will buck upward, wreck your mounts and axles.

Hey guys, anyone know for sure if Brown's is open and runable right now? Thinking of a trip in the next week before school starts for the kids. If it's open, anyone wanna go? Weekend of Aug 31st- Sept 2nd?

I eliminated my IAC hose. But that's it. The reason is that I'm using an intake plenum that doesn't have an IAC port. Takes a few few seconds holding the gas pedal on cold mornings. As GD stated, you do definately need the PCV hoses. Sore Thumbs aren't necessary.