Gloyale

buy a metric "T" fitting (female ends) that matches the line ends. Install the "T" where the hillholder is. need to bend lines a bit but it will fit.

Sounds like you guys are saying the same thing. Possibly not an original Y-pipe. O2 may not be needed. Except that Mikaleda was unaware that there were some carbed cars equipped with O2 sensors. In fact all 2wd and Cali model 4wd all had them. The thing to ask the OP, is whether the car is 2wd or 4wd, and possibly Cali model? Before his thread gets closed because of bickering

Q: Why won't my car idle? A: Clogged Emulsion tubes Q: Do I need a rebuild? A: Probably not a full rebuild, just remove and blow out the emulsion tubes. Replacing the air horn O-rings helps some too with getting a good spray. Q: Do I need to remove the carb? A: No, remove the linkage for the Accel pump and Choke set. Then remove the top of carb (5 screws) Q: How do I clean the emulsion tubes A: With top of carb removed, look for 2 solid brass screws. Take them out, under them is the emulsion tubes. Screw them out, and blow them out with compressed air, or a can of brake clean. Repeat the same with the jet/tubes Q: Should I do anything else? A: Yes, drain the bowl. 2 screws on the bottom copper washer seals. If anyone finds this helpful, or has more questions let me know. I hate seeing people junk or bastardize good subarus with clogged carbs. Hoping to revive the much maligned Hitachi Carb's name.

Only Crank and rod bearing oil is above the baffle. All the oil returning from the heads runs right over the edge of pan. RTV will work fine for the pan......But it may leak again in 20k. Right Stuff FTW!

"The Right Stuff" is the best sealant i've found. I swear by it now. A little spendy, but worth it. Lasts a long time, easy to remove plug forms in the tips. I like to use the "caulk gun" tubes of it, rather than the "squeeze cheese" cans. What I really like about "The Right Stuff" it is that it adheres well to aluminum, and when an excess bead squeezes out, it stays connected. So no goobers fall out into the pump cavity, or oil pan. Grey RTV will flake off the strings and chunks that splooge out. Even the factory subaru RTV, (like on your pump) will do that eventually. One reason you hear hydro lifter 2.2s in early legacy with lifter tick. Little chunks of RTV clog the lifter.

REPLACE THE FRONT AXLES!!!!! Don't look at them. Replace them. It takes 20 mins per side or less. Axles are cheap, relativelty. Don't let anybody tell you it's anything else. Vibration under acceleration means the front axles are bad.

transitor at coil base. Swap the whole coil assembly easier almost;)

I used the sealed ones in a modified way. Pry off the seals, very easy with a little pick, they aren't very sealed really. Fill with new grease with a cone packer or bearing buddy, then reinstall ONE seal per bearing. install bearings with "open" ends towards eachother. Spacer and more greaser in between. new seals at the knuckle recommened but optional.

Balljoints seperate the knuckle by removing the pinchbolts top and bottom. Leave the balljoint installed in the arm. If the pinchbolt won't come, you can remove the whole arm with knuckle. Lay it flat, drive out bearings, drive in new ones. Pulling axles can be done with two opposing claw hammers against the lip of the knuckle. Install the outer seal AFTER pulling in axle, then install hub/rotor.

Yellow wire should get 12v from IG. switch. If your harness is late model it'll justbe Big Whites(12v to batt fusible link) and a B/W(charge EA R/W)

Charge light wire is on the EA harness is the White/red wire. Hook the Black/white wire of the EJ alt to the White/red wire of the EA harness.

will it run the pump with the test connectors plugged? Do you have 12v start signal wire of ECU connected to the starter circuit?

check the charge light fuse.

Both low fillaments in the bulbs are burned out. Replace bulbs

That thread I was reffering to a Diode between the Alt and Ig.Coil circuits. Not the Starter. As pointed out the starter doesn't care about the Alt. This is likely a remote start issue. But for a longshot test of the P and N lockout switches, try pulling the connector on the transmission that goes to the switch mechanism (pass side)

When you replaced the clutch cable, you pulled the vacuum line apart where it comes into the cab, in the upper corner of the dash, above the clutch pedal. Look around up there for a black, skinny hard vacline, and a rubber line to connect it to. Your dash vents will start switching again too.

about 2 ft. up the loom from this point, there is a junction of 5 big red wires. this is the power supply to the 4 doors and relay box. make sure this crimp joint isn't corroded. Salty water just soaks through the carpet in winter and corrodes the brass collar and copper wire crimp joint

Yes. 12v From IG. switched fuse, to the above mentioned relay, junctions in the connector there, and out to the coil.

The whistle is intake noise, not exhaust. It's from the ribbed tube section of the intake snorkus. sometimes unclamping it from the MAF, bending it a hair, and reclamping will help. It's worse if the fenderwell airbox is removed.

All the ECU grounds happen at the engine harness. You need to have the intake harness plugged into the main harness, and the ground eyelet grounded to the intake. Without that, the ECU won't have ground sources.

And your 4wd and vent aren't working because you disconnected the vacuum line. Check the line to the vac canister, and the lines from the canister to the 4wd solenoids, and into the cabin.

Are you positive you have the fuel supply and return lines correct? switched maybe?

looks like a MAP based, phase II engine.

I think that the valve area is too large for the smaller diameter piston bore. But that would be the only "no way" problem. If the valves fit within the firering of the 2.2 headgasket, then you could do it. It may have a low compresion ratio, but otherwise I would guess it would run pretty well. No clue about horsepower:popcorn:

Turbo one will work. all EA82 knuckles are the same. Turbo axles are different. If you can't find a cone washer, just file the ridge off the one you've got. You also need to check the condition of the splines inside the hub (the part with the rotor bolted to it) If they have a flat spot on the top of each ridge, it's fine.......if the ridges come to sharp points, the hub is worn out and no amount of tightening or new washers will ifx it. I also can't help notice that though all this your still using the old bearings. They are cheap, less than $10 bucks a piece from industrial suppliers. 6207 is the number. to review, you need: Grind or new cone, spring washer-dome out, a good hub, and new bearings. Leaving any one of these out of the mix during service will mean you will need to go back in shortly, again.