Gloyale

Nothing the same electrically. nothing the same mounting wise. Fabricate it all, and it would be pretty cool. Except that the XT dash is super flimsy, rattles and vibrates.

I have an XT Turbo FT4wd, a standard 3.9 D/R, and a 4.11 legacy trans here. Plans are: D/R case and input shaft. FT4wd gear sets(pressed off, and pressed onto D/R upper, and AWD lower) 4.11 awd pinion AWD center/transfer section. with this recipe I can use a stock D/R case, with no lo gear swapping. The key to this one is that the FT4wd 1st and 2nd gears match the stock D/R input shaft casting......and the FT4wd 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears will fit onto the AWD output shaft. The single range FT4wd boxes are just slightly easier to find than the RX boxes

No they won't. The free length of the springs is nearly the same. And the extra height in the strut is all in the "bottom" of the strut tube. Overall travel is nearly identical as well. there's no reason legacy springs would "wear out" a new set of struts. With the first gen cars you have to use the legacy spring and tophats in the rear.

Dealer installed air or no air = 110mm pump Factory installed air = 105mm pump. You can tell by inspecting the clutch fan pulley. If the fan bolts onto the pulley, and the pulley bolts onto the pump(4 bolts and 4 studs total)...it's factory A/C......Short pump....105mm If the fan slips onto the same studs that the pulley is mounted too, i.e. pulley is sandwiched under the fan(4 studs only).....it's dealer air.....110mm pump. Most likely you need the 110mm.

Did you test continuity on the wiring end to end, from ECU to MAF? I had these excact 3 codes in a car last week. MAF and IAC codes were both from broken wiring. I had to run a new wire to the ECU for MAF, and replaced one wire to the IAC.

I took a few thousands of an inch off the collar. the rest I just mounted up the diff to a stationary bearing retain cup, and used a grinder on the edge. The lathe would work too. wet grind, no treating needed afterword. that was to make a 4.11 R+P work with the 1.59 low.

Yes. Works great. With EJ power, the dual range isn't really needed unless you're running 27" or larger tires, and doing alot of wheeling. I ran mine that way with 205/70/15 tires. crosscountry, 10,000 mile trip with some light dessert wheeling. worked awesome.

Doohh! Can't tell you how many times.

Single range EA trans guts and rear section in/on EJ 5spd case halves. then use a full EJ clutch. (match the case type, hydro, cable, push, pull etc...) True 4wd, with EJ clutch. No adapter or redrilled flywheel needed.

plug them toghether. start and run engine. Drive forward at least 1mph (to test speed sensor) Keep holding idle over 2k for about 30 secs. til light flashes. If light comes on, but does not flash (stays lit) you still have a current code that won't clear.

Actually, the fuel lines do run inside the car. through firewall, into cab, and along the drivers side rocker under the plastic gaurd. But they are bendable, rubber coated, hardline and there are not fittings or filters in the cab. In a carbed car, the pump doesn't run until there is a tach signal to the FPCU. (pump realy) My money is on clogged jets and/or emulsion tubes in the carb from the seafoam. most likely the primary jet. easy to pull the top off the carb, unscrew the tubes, clean them out and reinstall. note* the electrical unit attached to the trim panel is for the intermittent wipers.

First, like Ivan suggested remove the bowl drains. Next, Remove the top of the carb. you will see 4 brass pieces in the deck of the carb body. the ones that have holes are the Primary and Secondary main emulsion tubes. unscrew them and blow them out. these deliver the fuel/air mix to the venturis during open throttle driving. the 2 solid caps are the primary and secondary "slow" emulsion tubes. These supply fuel/air mix for idle, and transition to secondaries respectively. again, unscrew caps, unscrew the tubes under the caps, and blow them all out. If you can do it all without confusing any parts, it's best to take all out....as well as the accel pump.....and then blow out all the passages (carefull not to lose the ball in the bottom of the accel pump. That is ussually all it takes to make a hitachi run great. But if you have a rebuild kit....it's good to pull the air horns, and replace the tiny o-rings that seal them. Reassemble and be amazed at how well a 30 year old hitachi will run when it's not clogged up with crap. *note.....this can all be done with carb on the car.....no need to remove it.

Weird tach and not shutting off is a problem with the FP relay or "rev sensor" as it's reffered to in the FSM. Replace the Fuel pump relay, it's above the hood latch pull. Rewire the fuel pump back to stock. The way you have it is dangerous in an accident.

It's noit just the switch. there is a relay too. Located near the battery. If it's bad.....there is a write up in the old USRM about using a DPDT switch, or a DPDT relay run by the factory switch. with switch: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/3rdEye/using_center_light_w.htm with relay: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/electrical/centerlamp-relay.pdf

Dash lights on after key removed means you've got a bad connection at the main engine connectors. Seen it many times. Double check the 3 large connectors bolted to the back/passenger side of the engine.

Thanks. I kinda needed that. My 96 2.2 in my 86 wagon developes this weird stumbling/ poor running under load...somwetimes, and ......only when the tank is totally full. If I stop, and open the fuel cap....it goes away. Installing the PCSV, and the Temp sender are the last things I need to do to get my CEL off.

Crossmember needs swapped or modified That's it as far as the body. The rest of the EJ swap is just adapter and wiring. Now if you want to go to EA 4wd Fabricate carrier bearing mount Fabricate mustache bar mount EA 5spd and driveline will bolt right in. Using a D/R would need and adapter plate. Using a S/R you can swap trans case for an EJ, use EJ clutch, no adapter. For EJ AWD Fabricate carrier bearing mount Fabricate mustache bar mount Fabricate EJ 5spd trans mounting crossmember, and shifter. Custom length driveline needed.

So the only thing that has changed from when this engine ran, mechanically speaking anyhow is the intake? I'd guess leaking fuel injectors. Dumping liquid fuel into the cylinders. Engine is half way between running and hydrolocking, hence the slow spin over, and the "backwards" bucking.

next time the illuminatiopn goes out, mess with the dimmer switch. thjat's almost certainly it. Alt issue is likely a poor battery connection, or poor fusible link connections.

I think chasing timing issues is not gonna get you anywhere. I'd put my money on clogged up emulsion tubes in the carb. Get a 15 dollar reebuild kit and service it on the car. Remove the top of the carb. Unscrew the 2 emulsion tube caps, then the emulsion tubes. Remove the plugs in the bottom side of the bowl. Unscrew the brass jets through the drain holes. Blow them all out with compressed air and carb cleaner. Pull the air horns and replace the tiny o-rings that seal them. Replace the accel plunger. Make sure to put the little check ball in the bottom. Don't mess with the power valve in the very bottom of the bowl. Replace the float needle if you want, or save it for later......the old one is probably still fine. reinstall. Your subaru will run like it's brand new.

try finding a good two row EA82 radiator. Hen's teeth. Don't get me wrong, it's a great solution. But there simply are getting to be more EJ swapped cars than there are 2 row EA82 radiators floating around. The junkyards aren't really keeping the old cars anymore. Modify the car to fit an EJ radiator, and you're good to go. If you need a new radiator, you can order one off the shelf. Full disclosure, my EJ22 wagon has the stock EA82 radiator in it. 18" flex hose with a 1-1/2" outlet one end, and 1-1/4" on the other from Napa makes the fit for lower hose. Upper hose is a stock EJ hose with a chunk of old EA hose as a spacer. Works fine so far, although summer is coming.....may need to get the EJ rad in there before too long.

Glad you got it. Pickle fork is the tool for the job. I only use the puller if I'm trying to save the balljoint. If it's done, hammer away.

Do you have a pitch stopper installed? That helps. Also, when the rear suspension is soft, the front lifts and the back drops. Adding some coilovers to the rear end or clocking the torsion bars up a notch helps too. When the rear is up high and stiff, the front doesn't lift so much. The softer front end is from the better geometry of the EA82 on the EA81 chassis. It's actually a bonus for offroad. If you really need stiffer, get some RX or turbo wagon springs.

2-1/2 outlet turbo style muffler.

Blown fusible link. The no CEL w/ key on is the giveaway. check the underhood fuse panel.